Previous in Forum: How to Perforate, Knurl and Cut to Length 6061-T6 Aluminum Tubing   Next in Forum: Pouch Seals and Vacuum Sealing
Close
Close
Close
10 comments
Rate Comments: Nested
Member

Join Date: Jan 2009
Posts: 8

Nylon 66 GF 30 Heat Staking

01/16/2009 2:21 AM

Hello Everybody

I want to use heat staking process in Nylon66 GF30 for stud dia 3 mm and height 8-10 mm. I want to know about the structural or molecular change in plastic due to heating during this staking process. Will it effect plastic quality also....?

Thank you

Naveen Mittal

Japan

Register to Reply
Interested in this topic? By joining CR4 you can "subscribe" to
this discussion and receive notification when new comments are added.

Good Answers:

These comments received enough positive votes to make them "good answers".

"Almost" Good Answers:

Check out these comments that don't yet have enough votes to be "official" good answers and, if you agree with them, vote them!
Guru

Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Etats Unis
Posts: 1871
Good Answers: 45
#1

Re: Nylon 66 GF 30 Heat Staking

01/16/2009 10:48 PM

I am not familiar with the particular formulation of Nylon you reference but I believe that Nylon is a thermosetting plastic and may not be compatible with your intended process.

__________________
The hardest thing to overcome, is not knowing that you don't know.
Register to Reply
Member

Join Date: Jan 2009
Posts: 8
#2
In reply to #1

Re: Nylon 66 GF 30 Heat Staking

01/16/2009 11:37 PM

no its not like this, nylon is a thermoplastic

Register to Reply
Guru

Join Date: Mar 2007
Posts: 2550
Good Answers: 103
#3

Re: Nylon 66 GF 30 Heat Staking

01/17/2009 4:18 AM

I feel you are in wrong forum- why not close and try on the Chem. matl Science forum ?

__________________
Fantastic ideas for a Fantastic World, I make the illogical logical.They put me in cars,they put me in yer tv.They put me in stereos and those little radios you stick in your ears.They even put me in watches, they have teeny gremlins for your watches
Register to Reply Score 1 for Good Answer
5
Guru
Australia - Member - New Member

Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Australia
Posts: 2181
Good Answers: 255
#4

Re: Nylon 66 GF 30 Heat Staking

01/17/2009 5:17 AM

Hello naveenmittal. Heat staking is possible, but challenging process.

Deformation rate depends on melting temperature (HDT) of the Nylon grade you use, excess heat in the staking tool will "boil" the stake material making it very brittle, change the molecular structure and the stake tip will shear off the top of the pin. Insufficient heat with excess force will collapse the pin before it melts, usually moving the captured item sideways and giving poor staking.

The GF30 designation also means that the material will be extremely abrasive on your forming tool. (For others reading this from outside of plastics world, GF30 means that 30% of the material is glass, usually fibre glass with sharp ends on every fibre, though it could be glass beads, microscopic glass balls or flame smoothed glass fibre depending on what you've specified.) The fibre will tend to accumulate at the surface of your staking tool, while the plastic will flow away giving you a VERY non homogenous mixture with lower strength than the original material.

If you are intending to reform 8-10mm of 3mm diameter, then that seems tooooo long. Calculate the required "head" after heat staking and then reverse engineer the volume required in the pin to provide that. (I suspect that a 3mm pin would need less than 4mm through projection, smoothed down to a 1.5mm thick form at the circumference of the post, giving around 1mm collar for the pin.)

Staking pin (tool) will get contaminated with scorched plastic and then subsequent parts that you stake will have "strings" of Nylon pulled from them as the part is removed from the stake.

Yes, it is possible. Yes it gives a tamper proof assembly. Yes it is a simple low cost method. Yes it does have significant challenges.

Alterantives that we have used include

:- Moulding spear clips instead of the 3mm post. (eliminates the process step in assembly)

:- Cold forming/(splitting and bruising) the post to provide a head. (Provides evidence of tampering, can be heat fromed afterwards if desire to "seal" the area.)

:- Vibration re-forming of the pin end (ultrasonic and audible range). Reliable, repeatable, but includes the extra process steps.)

:- Screw and other fasteners into a thicker post. (Repeatable strength of outcome, but needs larger diameter post.)

__________________
Just an Engineer from the land down under.
Register to Reply Good Answer (Score 5)
Member

Join Date: Jan 2009
Posts: 8
#5
In reply to #4

Re: Nylon 66 GF 30 Heat Staking

01/17/2009 6:12 AM

Thank you very much for this clarification, It means I should not prefer heat staking for Nylon66 with 30% glass fiber.If it is quite necessary, I should go for ultrasonic, vibration or infrared staking process. Thanks once again

Register to Reply
Commentator
Hobbies - Fishing - Zoomer

Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Wisconsin, USA
Posts: 89
Good Answers: 4
#6
In reply to #4

Re: Nylon 66 GF 30 Heat Staking

01/19/2009 9:32 AM

Just An Engineer definitely rates a Good Answer. I do have some reservations about ultrasonic staking of glass filled nylon, however, as it is a crystaline material with a sharp melting point. It tends to melt from the top down and the deformed plastic, rather than forming a "rivet head", tends to squirt out as a thin film of flash that has low strength. Using a cross-hatched, like a knurl, surface on the ultrasonic staking horn stakes the end of the post without the thin flash. It is not as strong as a well formed rivet head, but may be strong enough for your application.

If you use heat staking, you will need to coat the end of the staking tool with a hard, non-stick coating, like a chrome alloy with Teflon, to prevent wear and to keep the molten plastic from sticking to it. Armoloy makes good coatings for this application, as do several other coating suppliers.

__________________
When in doubt, do it the right way.
Register to Reply
Member

Join Date: Jan 2009
Posts: 8
#7
In reply to #6

Re: Nylon 66 GF 30 Heat Staking

01/19/2009 9:37 AM

Thanks a lot for the information.

Register to Reply
Anonymous Poster
#8

Re: Nylon 66 GF 30 Heat Staking

01/19/2009 11:44 AM

As Just An Eneineer has stated, heat staking plastic is possible but you have chosen a difficult material to stake. Depending on cost and the required temperature & strength you may consider some other engineering plastics.

We successfully heat stake thousands of flat (not domed - minimizes sticking) rivet heads weekly of materials like Delrin, Kel-F, Ultem and Torlon with a combination of temperature and pressure to achieve the desired form and strength.

Good Luck!

Register to Reply
Participant

Join Date: Aug 2010
Posts: 3
#9

Re: Nylon 66 GF 30 Heat Staking

08/05/2010 1:35 AM

Dear Friends , Hi I am sanket jejani , i manufacture glass filled nylon insulators for railway ,, previously we used Dupont Zytel nylon 66 33% GF,,,,it is very expensive material ..around Rs 200/KG or 4 $ per Kg ..... i am looking for material less than 2 $ or less than 90 rs ...... can any one suggest source for me ... I can accept scrap or regrind material , i asked for some regrind material from a company ..... but melting point which i require is 259 and above and presently i am getting 235 c ....can any one suggest how to increase melting point .....

Register to Reply
Participant

Join Date: May 2026
Posts: 1
#10

Re: Nylon 66 GF 30 Heat Staking

05/27/2026 9:32 PM

Great thread — a few things worth adding specifically for GF30 Nylon 66.

The glass fibres don't melt, only the resin around them does. So on retract, fibres sit proud at the surface and the head comes out matte and slightly hairy — that's normal for 30% glass fill and doesn't mean the process is wrong. Cosmetically it will never look like an ABS head, but functionally it holds fine.

On temperature: for glass-filled PA66 you're looking at a tip temperature in the 260–290°C range. The sharp melt transition of a semicrystalline like Nylon means a few degrees too cold and nothing flows, a few too hot and you're scorching it. Tight process control is non-negotiable here.

For your 3mm boss at 8–10mm height — that's a long projection and the previous comment is right to flag it. The standard starting point is a boss height of roughly 1.5–2× the boss diameter, so closer to 4.5–6mm of formed material. Back-calculate from the head volume you actually need rather than forming the full pin height.

Also: dry the parts before staking. PA66 is hygroscopic and moisture in the boss will boil during the heat phase, leaving you with a porous, brittle head and possibly a cracked base.

There's a full step-by-step breakdown of the process — including the diagnostic table for head failures and heater type comparisons — over at https://usheatstake.com/blog/the-heat-staking-process-step-by-step if it helps. More detail on equipment at https://usheatstake.com

Hope that helps move things forward.

Register to Reply
Register to Reply 10 comments

Good Answers:

These comments received enough positive votes to make them "good answers".

"Almost" Good Answers:

Check out these comments that don't yet have enough votes to be "official" good answers and, if you agree with them, vote them!
Copy to Clipboard

Users who posted comments:

Anonymous Poster (1); Just an Engineer (1); naveenmittal (3); prestigetrack (1); rcapper (1); sb (1); taimurik (1); Zoomer (1)

Previous in Forum: How to Perforate, Knurl and Cut to Length 6061-T6 Aluminum Tubing   Next in Forum: Pouch Seals and Vacuum Sealing

Advertisement