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JT Valves

03/05/2009 5:17 PM

I am attempting to cool compressed air between a 91mm turbocharger and a 1250 holley carb. My question is....., can I lower the air temperature 50-75 degrees by installing a series of JT valves along a 72" by 4"dia. aluminum pipe? My thinking is to space the JT valves (aprox. 5 valves -12" apart), in series to drop the temp aproxx. 10 degrees between each valve with a total of 50-75 degrees at the end/carb?

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#1

Re: JT Valves

03/05/2009 7:32 PM

Have you considered injecting liquid air which is -312F into the system? Nearly anyone who sells liquid nitrogen or liquid oxygen can supply it. It is used for welding and making fog at rock concerts. Spraying the liquid into the air stream should suffice to evaporate it.

As long as you keep it cold it remains a liquid. You won't need to pump it, a pressure cap on the storage tank will suffice. It might make a weight problem for a long race, however.

bill michaels

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#2
In reply to #1

Re: JT Valves

03/05/2009 9:52 PM

Bill Michels: Thank you for your help! I am drag racing a quarter mile at a time, so you may be on to something I can really develope/innovate into a real horsepower gain. In the late 70's I was a mechanical tech at Fermilab in Batavia, Ill., building a liquid helium plant where I was first introduced to the world of cryogenics. Am I correct in your proposing to inject liquid oxygen directly upstream from the turbo outlet....., rather than a series of JT valves?...., and the liquid nozzles would turn gaseous(sp?) upstream in the course on the way to the carb giving me a 45# boost pressure of really cold oxygen? Big inch drag motors absolutely LOVE cold air!!!!! If I can use a liquid oxygen bottle on-board and spray it via a few nozzles directly into the boost stream....., that could be worth an easy 100 horsepower!!! Please tell me I'm on the same page as you.

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#3
In reply to #2

Re: JT Valves

03/05/2009 11:47 PM

I didn't mean oxygen. Oxygen in any appreciable quantity will ruin your motor, although maybe you could get by with a little. My idea was to COOL your inlet air by mixing it with air at -312F, making it more dense. Same idea as an intercooler. The liquid air will not make much difference in carburation, but you might be able to go to a size bigger jet in the carburator. I certainly wouldn't try pure oxygen, but maybe you could use liquid air which had slightly more oxygen in it than normal. This can be easily accomplished by letting a bucketfull of liquid air set. The nitrogen will evaporate off first and the percentage of oxygen will increase. Be careful, liquid oxygen presents a tremendous fire hazard, and make things explode which wouldn't otherwise.

You might want to try injecting the liquid air at the turbocharger inlet; this should give more pressure through a "super sea level " effect. Maybe even inject both places.

You will probably disappointed to find how big a tank it will take to help for long.

Good luck

bill michaels

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#4

Re: JT Valves

03/06/2009 9:11 AM

wait. what's a JT valve again? is it a joule thomspon expansion valve

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#12
In reply to #4

Re: JT Valves

03/09/2009 4:17 PM

Mr. Guest, Yes, I think that is what I'm looking for. Did you ever take a valve core out of a valve stem on your tire and feel how cold the air is coming out on your fingers? There is some science going on there that when you have air pressure that has to neck down thru a reduced size opening the molecules loose energy and that in turn looses heat !!?? I was a pipe welder at Fermilab and welded a few of these jewels , not funny, joules thomas valves in the high pressure helium 4 and 5 inch pipes on the way to the liquid nitrogen intercoolers. When I asked what they did..., I was told what I just mentioned about the valve core removal. I thought that was really cool technology and thought I could apply it to drag race technology? Thank you for your curiosity, can you help me?

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#5

Re: JT Valves

03/06/2009 7:54 PM

This is an old school trick that worked well for us that has advantages and disadvantages. It's easier to implement and control in 1/4 mile racing. Using ice in a modified air intake box. You'll have to calculate how much to ad an place, usually cubed or large round ice, in reference to ambient due to evaporation. Which also has a base effect of water injection. While water injection wont necessarily cool your air, it does ad to cooling the temperatures in the cylinder. Rapid air flow through the ice will cool the air while melting the ice. Your filter keeps the condensing water from allowing large droplets through the induction. Also the compressor impeller works well to keep what droplets do mist through atomized as the compressors frictional air compression temperature is over 200+ degrees normally. We've goofed around with this idea at the track with different means of implementation with some pretty fond results. On a hot 90 degree day we've dropped a full 3/4 second on a couple turbo stangs and my turbo Duster.

The down sides are keeping a measured amount in the air box especially if the staging lanes are long. We often placed it just before our time at the light. Drainage was sometimes let out to the ground or through vacuum through a .30 jet right before the inlet. That has some inconsistencies as the line doesn't always filled completely. That seems to show some negligible gains on the clock. But it's cold water. On one of the stangs, due to it's delivery arrangement, showed a more distinguishable difference. Although we have access to a dyno, this type of playing around on a test and tune day is more fun and shows up on your time slip. Also making a number of passes can be applied and keeping track of what your changes are to air, ice, inlet configuration, notes of air temp, track conditions etc, provide you with some conclusive or not results.

There are other "cool" tricks but that one has proven decent results.

We've also used the drained water before the radiator to help cool as well. In conclusive on any real gain there by the way. Also using oxygen or nitrogen or of the such can be a detriment to your engine if not utilized properly. Liquid air is a bit safer but all has to be metered in. For turbo cars it's a bit easier to keep your cool air intake box a little further away from the heat of the engine compartment in most cases. You'll be surprised how cool that air get against the ice.

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#6

Re: JT Valves

03/07/2009 8:59 AM

JT valves are most efficient when you have a large pressure drop. Your idea is good, but I don't think there is enough pressure drop in your system to achieve any useful cooling. The idea of bringing pressurized gas (or liquid) on board works thermodynamically, but after you calculate the volume you will need to make a difference, I think you find that you can't afford the weight or the space.

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#7

Re: JT Valves

03/07/2009 10:55 PM

I'm assuming that you want to end up with high pressure, cool air blown into the engine. In that case, each expansion valve, to operate, must show a pressure drop -- i.e., the air must expand -- lose pressure. You could expand it back to its original (pre- turbocharger) pressure and back to its original temperature. At that point you'd have an expensive, complicated, normally-aspirated engine. Instead, you could use an intercooler which will cool the charge without having to expand it. This could be air cooled, ice cooled, water cooled, etc.

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#11
In reply to #7

Re: JT Valves

03/09/2009 3:49 PM

Dear Ken, Thank you for your wisdom. You are exactly correct. Every one else in the industry offers intercoolers, air to air, water to air, ice to air. I was mistakenly thinking I was on to something brilliant - using cryogenics technology instead of draining melted ice and refilling an intercooler after every run. On an 85 degree day you go thru 20 pounds of ice. I was hoping to run 45 # of boost thru a few jt's and still have 45# of boost on the way to the carb...., only 50 degrees colder without carrying 20-30 pounds worth of water/ice along for the ride. I guess this falls in the "there is NO free lunch category huh? Thanks for your help!!!!!!!! Jim sabin.

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#13
In reply to #11

Re: JT Valves

03/10/2009 1:54 AM

After reading your reply to ken, I wish I had some pictures of this set up. If my wife isn't around, pictures don't get taken! I'm better at it now though. But each run the ice we measured, if I'm remembering right, never was more than about 5 lbs. Also we found, or one of the stang guy's found, his gains with the ice only, without a inter cooler was better without the 1,200 dollar inter cooler installed later. Adding ice in combination with the inter cooler (which then room was more limited) had the same and often better net with just the ice and no inter cooler. Also more consistant. Our best explanation is the air still picks up heat through all the vortices and bends throughout the cooler. Also we felt there was more water droplets available to help in combustion temperature effect with no inter coooler. There is a point of diminishing return when balancing inlet temperatures and optimal combustion chamber Tempe's, where fuel temperatures, volume etc, get out of balance in terms of "optimal". The closer you dial in to "optimal" the more easily it can be thrown off by other variables. Your optimal window gets smaller... This was our summarization anyway. Without better calibrations and testing equipment, we're pulling those thoughts a bit out of our ass! Just thought I'd mention it.

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#8

Re: JT Valves

03/09/2009 8:24 AM

What if you were to use an intercooler that was plumbed to a CO2 bottle. By varying a restrictor leading to the intercooler. You would be able to control the time the bottle lasts versus the temperature drop of the incoming charge.

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#9
In reply to #8

Re: JT Valves

03/09/2009 9:20 AM

Bob,
Although I haven't done the math, I suspect that any bottle of CO2 you could fit in a vehicle, won't supply enough cooling power to have a measurable effect on the volume of air that requires cooling for a 1/4 mile run.

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#10
In reply to #9

Re: JT Valves

03/09/2009 10:12 AM

Nor have I. But in theory it would work. It's just the damn logistics of it all.

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