Quality Self-Tapping Screws for Skate Blades

Send a cheque, Mate. Just send a cheque. <Cough, sneeze>

Drat this Swine Fever! <Splutter>

Possibly, the danger being that every "system" is designed to have a failure point. Usually this point is picked based on expense and repairability.

On my 4x4 truck it was the frontest U joint, cost $9, replacement time 10 minutes in the field. Next weakest component was the differential/axle. Cost $1500, time a week, in the shop.

So ask yourself, If I put in a screw that doesn't break, and my skaters are testing to limits, what breaks next? Sounds like the soles.

or an ankle...

Since you don't say what material the current screws are made from, my advice would be to go with stainless steel screws. They don't "rot".

Hello, I already use stainless steel screws but they seem to more brittle?

What type of stainless? Each has differing obtainable hardness. Hardness a factor in how brittle the screw would be. There could also be something in the sole that is causing a breakdown(rot as you called it) in the stainless. A different alloy may eliminate the problem.

This may be stress induced when the threads are cut. I don't know if you can get roll formed threads in a self-tapping screw, but it might be worth a look.

Leather is a bit like wood to work with. The self tapping screws are making less thread depth due to the tapping cut at the tip. The above suggestion for SS screws is spot on. for the EXACT size you want, go to <jamestowndistributors.com>. Slotted oval head screws are best for countersunk holes.

For the screw holes that are already bungled: First find the right screws. Remove any ridges around the screw hole with fine sandpaper on a block of wood for a backer. Grease or Vaseline the screws lightly, and put a layer of Saran Wrap® on the skate plate. Drip a high quality epoxy into the screw holes, until no more is accepted. Assemble and use spring clamps or rubber bands to hold the blade to the sole, put in a warm place (75f +) and wait 24 hours before use, longer if possible, or use a hair drier judiciously. Notes: Clean up spills and drips immediately with acetone. Cut Saran around the edges and remove and clean around the plate as soon as the epoxy has 'kicked' (soft but no longer sticky). Make a note on the bottom of the shoe leather " Heat to remove". A soldering iron in the screw slot will soften the epoxy 'just enough' to back the screws out.

Have at it, but experiment first.

to ensure that the countersink angle and the angle of the fastner are the same , as well...

i have countersinks w/ 2 different cutting angles

Use 18-8 stainless. Go for phillips head and hand tightening. You should be able to substitute #8 in many plates if you're having problems with #6. If everything seems good after a couple skates AND JUMPS, take the screws out, one at a time, and put a wee drop of epoxy in the hole.

If you, "put a wee drop of epoxy in the hole", wouldn't you want to treat the screw with some form of release agent?

Otherwise, if you had to remove the screw, you might also tear the epoxy impregnated leather out of the hole.

Yep, you're right. I'd take that lump. After I tear out a chunk, assuming I can't use new plate holes, I'd put several drops in the bigger hole. There is, by the way, a technique for rejuvenating screwed up holes with a plug like putting a dowel in a worn out screw hole on your house door; a good cobbler should be able to handle that OK. Anyway, I did say wait a bit before doing this so you know the plates are aligned. Then, all you have to worry about is a bent or worn blade.

hi..

i am not a skater..

just curious..the cost of new skates vs..these suggested repair methods..

i .have no knowledge of cost basis vs " comfort level "{ break in time } { like a baseball glove? } of your skaters feedback ?

on a mechanic's view: edge distance on hole-size for fastener is a concern:, but to " add " a " doubler " . " large area "washer, installed w/ hardware when wet..

Loctite® makes a very nice agent ..no special procedures required... drip , secure , enjoy..sry, the tool used imho, shouldn't damage the component ..

ahuha

sounds to me like three problems. the broken screws are likley from screws that were loose in the first place. screws should be checked everytime you skate. grab the blade and make sure it does not rock or twist before the skater even puts them on. i am not sure also, that the screws should be #8. i think my harlicks are that size. when i was skating the screws would occasionally be loose and they would tighten up fine with a screwdriver that i keep in the skate bag. do not over tighten because you can strip the hole in the sole-heel and then big expense. usually all the holes are not used so you can put a screw into an unused hole and go about your business. if you need to use an unused hole be sure to drill a pilot hole, i think about a .062 diameter was about right. the next thing is the skater needs to be sure that after each use the skates are wiped down so they are completely dry. then when the skater gets home the skates are out of the skate bag and allowed to dry. this will avoid "rot" from over humidity. the third thing is skating skills. are the skaters flat footing and grinding the blades into the ice while doing manuvers or are the using good form, ie edges, rocker,etc. also that type of form will guarantee injury..... good luck..... i need to get back to the rink.....i really loved to skate....

I have a relative who is a skating coach who recently had several students forfeit from competitions for that exact failure. One thing in common, all the skates where either completely new or had new blades recently installed. Since this appears to be a widespread problem it seems the hardware supplier is common among skate builders and is providing junk.

thankz, after reading " the wrench's " post , i was thinking it was a case of neglect ,ie : lack of a preflight..

ahuha

As Phoenix911 has pointed out, the quality may improve over time...ie; apex tips..but the time between now and the improvements,...

the migration of the hardware.. : as over-torquing destroys the threaded " insert"..

i restate: Loctite..may help eliminate that.. well.. my curiosity settled

thankz all..

I am an old school skater and i still use quads to skate with. I have the old school Chicago trucks on my skates and the are attached by running a counter sunk stove bolt through the inside of the boot and threaded through the truck. Then a jam nut is placed on the bottom of the bolt to keep it from backing out.

My current boot has been attached this way for about 8 years now and the only thing I have had to to is polis them occasionally and replace the wheels and bearings.This is using a standard grade bolt. nothing fancy.