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1998 Chevy Cavalier - Driver Door Lock Sticks

06/07/2009 11:10 PM

Hi! I have a 98 Chevy Cavalier and the front door lock is sticking. I put the key in and I am having trouble. It tries to turn but won't unlock the door. I can get the key in and out okay, it just won't open the door. I then have to go through the passenger side.

Any suggestions for what might be wrong, and a DIY fix? I would rather not take it in to get fixed since I just had to spend a bunch of money on a fully new exhaust system.

Thanks!

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#1

Re: 98 Chevy Cavalier Driver Door Lock Sticking

06/08/2009 2:05 AM

Hello meredithypma, here are several ideas, first have you tried powdered graphite lube? You can find it at any auto parts store or home improvement store.

The pins and or tumbler could be sticking, spray oils or pin oilers can gum up the workings of locks. You could try a cleaned,degrease before using the powder. BUT BE CAREFUL NOT TO DAMAGE THE PAINT, USE WITH CAUTION!

Second the door locks can be replace fairly easy as a DIY project most auto parts stores sell matching sets fairly cheap and any door trim tools needed to remove the door panels just ask them for what you may need. The lock assembly has a metal clip that holds it in the door and either metal or plastic clips holding the link rods to the lock lever.

Last if the key works in the passenger side and not in the driver door most likely it is worn or damage lock assy. Other wise if the key does not work in the one lock but sorta works in the other locks the key is most likely worn or damage. You could try a spare key to see if it works better or worse.

Hope this helps.

Charles

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#2
In reply to #1

Re: 98 Chevy Cavalier Driver Door Lock Sticking

06/08/2009 4:49 PM

In addition to your good answer, I would add that it might be worth it to have a new key made by a competent locksmith, if you do not have a spare key. A good locksmith should be able to look at the old key and determine what it used to be. From that information he would be able to cut a new key to the original shape. One last possibility is to go to a Chevy dealer and have him try to research the key code, and cut a new key from that information. It may be too old for that, but worth a try. Good luck.

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#3

Re: 1998 Chevy Cavalier - Driver Door Lock Sticks

06/08/2009 7:05 PM

Hi!

I tried the lubricant (the graphite) and it didn't change anything. I can still open the passenger door and trunk just fine, but the lock feels like it gets stuck when I try to turn it; it will wiggle a little to either side but not unlock.

Does this mean the lock is broken? I want to try to access it, I just don't know how to get the panel off the inside of the door.

Thanks!

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#4

Re: 1998 Chevy Cavalier - Driver Door Lock Sticks

06/08/2009 8:18 PM

So I fixed it! I took the panels off the inside of the doors and it just looked like the lock needed some lubrication from the inside out. It opens like a charm after blasting it with some lubrication.

Thanks for all the help guys, this is my first "DIY" car project!

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#5
In reply to #4

Re: 1998 Chevy Cavalier - Driver Door Lock Sticks

06/08/2009 8:29 PM

Congratulations! If you have some spare time, do you want to try rebuilding a Ford Taurus Automatic?

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#7
In reply to #5

Re: Ford Taurus Automatic? off topic 4 bob

06/09/2009 7:26 AM

Hey Bob, some time ago I was healthy and had a good job that paid well, but I worked 50 to 70 hours a week! My 1987 (i think) Taurus was like a mini Lincoln Town Car, and I loved it! Within the first month of buying it the head gasket blew out, I did remember hearing something about this being a problem when I was looking at it on the used car lot. I bought any way, like I said it was like a mini town car, black with all the extras! I had talked the dealer into a 90 day warranty so they fixed it. Oh, back to my point, when I bought it their was 74K miles on it, then 4 years later-and a year after I got it back from my EX-wife after the divorce, it had 114K miles, but it was paid for! This is when it threw a piston rod through the block!! I had the skill to rebuild a motor or put in a used motor. This experience came from the Vega I had in collage (really by the time I graduated I had had gone through 4 Vegas progressively improving my skill). So when the motor blew I could use my skills and repair it, what should I do? I had more money than time so I had a repair shop replace the motor with a rebuilt Jasper motor. So for $5k I had a almost new car and life was good! About 2 months later I was hit head on, the car was drivable, it just looked horrible in the front. I was extremely POd when the insurance company would not consider the new motor in their evaluation for repair, so all I received was $5K because that was the 'book value' for retail value! My choice was except the checked for a totaled car that they would take, or sign over the $5K and they would let me keep the car! I was bummed! So should I have sold it with a bad motor and buy another car or did I do the right thing, and consider it was bad luck? Perhaps you may consider this as well?

Just for fun, Bubba

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#8
In reply to #7

Re: Ford Taurus Automatic? off topic 4 bob

06/09/2009 10:44 PM

You should have dragged the person out of the car that hit you, and beat them till they looked like your poor Taurus.

Kidding. Only kidding.

If you had that much hands on experience, I would have thought that taking the insurance company,s check, minus the scrap value, and keeping the car might be worthwhile. Use the cash to buy replacement body parts.

I bought an 89 Taurus wagon at an auction for $800. It needed head gaskets also. My wife loved the car. We drove it till we had 150,000 miles on it. Then the trans went bad. I should have burned it to the ground that day.

I have rebuilt my share of automatics in my life, so one more should not be a big deal. First of all to remove the trans on these cars requires hanging the engine/transmission assembly on a sky hook, or building a set of braces to hold it up while removing the front sub frame. Then unbolting the trans from the engine and removing it. I replaced all of the wear parts, all of the seals and installed all of the available upgrade kits offered. When I put it back into the car, It would act like low transmission oil pressure when first put into any forward gear. This became a reason for the wife to hold the gas to the floor to speed up the gear engagement. I gave up and brought it to a "friend" that had a tranny shop. $950 later I am told that my case was bad, and that he replaced the case with a later year case and modified the wiring harness to make it work. The "no engagement" problem came back again as soon as my friend closed his shop ( 1 month) At this point I decided to replace the motor and transmission with a junk yard setup. I wound up with a 95 model with a 3.0 instead of a 3.8. When I was done, I had more loose wires than I could count. I had drivability, and reliability problems every day.

Like I said, I should have burned it to the ground the first day the tranny was bad.

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Anonymous Poster
#6

Re: 1998 Chevy Cavalier - Driver Door Lock Sticks

06/09/2009 12:57 AM

yes spray lock graphite in the door lock and take some chassie grease and lube the door latch in the door

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#9

Re: 1998 Chevy Cavalier - Driver Door Lock Sticks

07/15/2010 4:00 AM

my trunk on my 98 cav no longer opens and i wanna know if i shud blast it with wd-40 from the inside cuz i shot it into the loch and still nothing hoow do i get the trunk open?? i need to get in there from both the actuall trunk and the seat and the seat is my only option i need help!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

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#10
In reply to #9

Re: 1998 Chevy Cavalier - Driver Door Lock Sticks

07/15/2010 10:47 PM

Is the key turning in the lock? If so, does it have a spring return to it?

If you can reach the inside, there should be a short silver colored piece of steel that is turned by the trunk key. Is that turning when the key is turned? (You will need a helper for that) If that is not turning, turn it counter-clockwise from the inside with a needle nose pliers. The steel piece should be about 5/16" tall, 1/8" thick, and protruding from a round hole about 5/8" diameter that also has a silver colored piece behind the hole. The second silver piece should have a slot in it that is just big enough for the first piece to fit through. All the rest of the parts should be painted. If turning the first silver piece does not allow the trunk to be opened, Try removing the three bolts that hold the trunk latch to the rest of the car. These bolts should be painted the same as the rest of the trunk, and have rather large washers behind the bolt head. Once you remove all three of these, you should be able to open the trunk. Good luck.

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