2004 Santa Fe Timing Belt Issues

Transmission or clutch?

transmission!

I guess that question is a little ambiguous. Maybe put more properly:

1. Could it be a problem with your transmission?
2. Do you have an automatic or standard transmission?
1. If standard, is there a problem with your clutch?

Coinzy - are you the original poster/questioner? Did you mean to say that you think it is a problem with the transmission?

automatic/standard transmission. That's what I'm wondering is there a trans problem?

I had no other issues with this vehicle until now and they claimed it needed the new timing belt and crank position sensor that they did about 3 weeks ago but now the RPM's are revving again and I seem not to be able to accelerate much even though the RPM guage is showing higer movement on needle. Thanks for any advice!

Check engine the temperature sensor, connected to the engine management controller, for an open-circuit fault. It could be one of these £5GBP parts that's an absolute nightmare to find inside the engine compartment....

You don't think has anything to do with the new timing belt and crank position sensor they just installed.

Like i said i didn't have any problems until recently. The engine wasn't turning over all the time and i was having some intermittent RPm guage runs. high to low....

with not much acceleration when achieving 4000 RPM's?

Possibility your engine idle controller is getting the wrong signals.

There however is a very good chance your exhaust system is plugged. I have seen a number of vehicles(including one of my own) have the engine control system bump up the idle speed because the exhaust system was plugged, collapsed catalytic converter usually. This exhaust restriction keeps the engine from running right and messes up the O2 sensor readings. Plus being severely restricted the back pressure will often force exhaust gasses through EGR valve when they are not wanted or will push high volumes through that are not needed when called for. This will prevent your engine from breathing properly and the high exhaust back pressure will give you low power that seems to only get worse with higher RPM.

Catalytic converters can fail and physically collapse the internal honeycomb at any time in a vehicles life. New or old its a common random failure that very often gets over looked. If thats the case your mechanic did a bad diagnosis job for $1000. You may likely have some good arguing leverage if it turns out the exhaust system is the real problem. Around here my auto tech buddies consider emissions control systems and devices culprit #1 for low power and other drivability issue problems!

Thankyou for your response here tcmtech. The hyundai service mgr. said he needs to keep the vehicle over-night for more test driving to identify problem because vehicle is showing no failure codes on test equipment. He also said the new timing belt and crank position sensor have nothing to do with what the RPM's are doing and then not getting the power when reaching 4000 RPM's. Wouldn't any of the "exhaust" type issues you mentioned come up on the test diagnosis check? Just curious!!!

Wouldn't they have checked to see if "catalytic converter" was going bad?

Can I get my money back if it had nothing to do with the timing belt?

Thanks

I have seen the plugged exhaust problems slip by shops to many times to say they would have caught it! I have taken company vehicles into get fixed just because they had your problem and got them back with just your same problem. A plugged exhaust system often does not show up on a computer simply because when they run your car on the computer there is no load and thus there is not enough volume of exhaust to build up the needed back pressure to show up on the diagnostics computer. Most vehicles don't even have an exhaust pressure sensing system!That partly why the restricted exhaust often gets treated as another problem first!

If one person put their ear down by the exhaust while someone else punched the throttle to the floor for a second they would here a hiss like an air hose was up inside it some place. Even rolling the windows down while you have a stretch of road with barriers on the exhaust side should give you a good chance of hearing it wheeze when you try to accelerate. It can be that loud when the engine is loaded down! I have even heard cars with plugged exhaust systems when following them some times.

I don't know what your shop may say. A good one will likely give you a price break on the follow up repair but many will claim the belt was the problem and the exhaust problem happened after they worked on it. Your word against theirs.

Thanks tcmtech for all your advice here. What happened is that they called me this morning and said the head foreman took the santa fe on a 27 mile road test trip last night and could not duplicate the problem. I made some communication with the svc. mgr. about other possibilities you shared with me and he said it wouldn't be anything related to the "exhaust" or "catalytic converter" and that "no codes" came up to validate our problem. He claims the "timing belt and crank position sensor" should be done at the "50k mile" maintenance schedule but we didn't have it done so it wasn't covered because it only covers until 60k miles and we were at 61k miles.

If the problem persists what recourse or direction do you suggest?

Should we contact the Hyundai Mfr. Rep?

I really appreciate your insight and support.

Thank you again

Read tcmtech again. He has good information for you. I would only offer this advice, For $10 you can buy a vacuum gauge from any of the chain store parts stores. Hook the enclosed hose to your intake manifold, and bring the gauge into the car. Drive the car. As the volume of air flow through the engine starts to be restricted by the exhaust, the intake manifold will drop vacuum, and rise until the manifold shows pressure. If you find that your manifold vacuum decreases as engine speed rises, your exhaust is clogged.

If you do not want to buy the gauge, I can suggest ways to test by removing parts. Good luck.

Thanks Bob I will try it and see what happens. Thanks very much for your help!

get that car out of the dealer NOW....those guys are being pressured by the owners to sell sell sell a problem like that may go away and come back but should kick a code even if the exhaust is clogged (that is problem not your problem)sounds like a bad idle air control or vacuum leak or map sensor get your car back and drive it till the light comes back on and take it to a good local guy the prices are cheaper even when your getting ripped off

Thanks for your advice here. They are ripoffs at the Dealership.

Can I call the Hyundai Mfr.Rep and get anywhere that way if this continues?

Or should I just take it to my local mechanic and let him test it?

And should he find the "real issue" do I have any recourse to get my money back from the Hyundai dealership?

Thanks again

good luck

Unless you have the replaced parts in your possession, and there is no wear on them, that transaction is completed. The only exception would be if it is clearly evident that your vehicle has not had those components replaced. As an example, if there was no sign of the timing chain cover having been removed. Sorry to bring you bad news.

Thanks Bob. I didn't ask to see the replaced parts when I was picking up vehicle.

So I am going off their word.

Thanks for your advice.