car stalls

PCV valve?

Does the oil light come on at all? As stated in another thread a while ago I has an older Century with the same problem and it turned out that the return ports for the oil were too small ( design flaw). As the oil got older and thicker it would cause a build up in the ports until there was only a seepage of oil.

The Condenser in the Distributor is a comon cause.

Or a microscopic crack in the distributor.

There is no condenser these cars should be distributorless ignition system.

I had the same issue and despite what everyone says the ignition module will fail intermittently I would suggest taking it to an auto parts dealer and have it tested. Chances are thats where your problem is. have them test it about 6-8 times to make sure it gets heated up.

The problem is they have attached these DIS components to the engine block an a steel mounting plate and the heat transfer from the block really is an unnecessary problem. I have found that if you put some rubber insulator washers on the hold down bolts with a jumper lead going around the washers for the ground you can reduce the problem down the road. But you will have to change this one if it is bad.

What type of test equipment do you have? If you have a timing light, connect it to the closest plug wire, and bring the light inside. Tape the trigger on the timing light and drive the car. When the engine dies, does the light stop as the engine is dying, or is the light flashing away till the engine stops?

Ignition components are more likely to fail from heat than fuel components are

Check your car to see if you have a distributer. If you do, check the condition of the rotor. If that looks good, I would replace the control module in the distributer. That is only if I could not find any other way to diagnose the problem.

Try the timing light, and let us know. Good luck.

Next time it quits, pull the fuel delivery line to the engine, and then attempt to start the vehicle to see if the fuel pump will pump fuel into a catch container. If no fuel, then you have a bad fuel pump (or, possibly, a bad fuel pump relay... but not likely). Just one thing to eliminate, before moving on to test other components.

http://tsb.govwebs.com/fi-n-vin-33l-v6204-century-buick-1990-5025.html

Fuel rail pressure should be as high as 50 PSI

On the throttle body right to the left of where the intake tube comes in is a black box with the plug into it. take that off and look at the back of it. it has 2 resistors on it which measure the air temperature and change the air/fuel ratio to compensate for the air coming in. at hotter temperatures there is less resistance so the engine delivers less fuel. when the temp is lower the resistance is higher and the engine delivers more fuel as a result. check to make sure that these 2 resisters are intact and that the plug that plugs into the sensor is plugged in completely and directly.after doing this, it may be helpful to reset you ECU by disconnecting the battery for about 15 minutes then letting the car idle for about 10 to relearn your setup. check vacuum tubes as well.

GA. There are way to many people that want to throw parts at a problem. Diagnosis is the answer.

I agree with the posts that tell you to do the diagnostics first. You need to eliminate causes or you can go broke buying parts that you don't need.

One point that does interst me is that you said it always starts when it cools off. How long does this cool off take? Are you saying five minutes, two hours or the next day?

The reason for asking is that on two sepereate occasions, on wildly different cars, many years apart I had an intermittent coil failure both of which needed a cooling off period before working properly. I have also had the fuel filter plug and the screen on the intake get covered by debris. The fuel filter screen masked itself quite well as it took time for the debris sucked from the bottom of the tank to settle back down and clear the pickup screen.

We found the problems on these cars by old fashioned diagnostics and elimination of problems. It wan't always easy and it did take time.

Good luck, check everything and let us know what it turns out to be.

The module in the distributor will heat up and shut off the motor.

Advance Auto and Auto Zone will check them free.

I believe that vehicle has a control module inside the distributor cap. They could be problematic, with a common problem being no ignition when the engine heats up. The engine will then restart when it cools off.

Cutting off? How? Does the engine just stall, at any speed or what? Does the electricity die? My Buick would die suddenly (very disturbing on the freeway). I had had a new battery put in and the mechanic had crossthreaded the terminal bolt so that it seemed tight, but it was making almost no contact. I got suspicious when I tugged on it and it came off in my hand.

Not saying I know what causes it.. But the distributor part would be a 'pick-up coil' under the places where you really don't want to go when working on the distributor.

I believe the name may change once you go looking for it at a parts store.

JL Mealer
Mealer Companies LLC
http://mealercompanies.com