will not start

What kind of car?

Is it a GM with the Passlock?

Does it have an anti-theft device?

Sorry its a 2002 Chevrolet Cavalier

With the PASSLOCK system then

What you NEED to try BEFORE anything else is:

1. Attempt to start car (turn to start) BUT THEN leave the key to ON
2. Let sit for 10-15 minutes - WAIT for THEFT light to go out.
3. Turn key OFF
4. And then start again

This is a very common problem with the PASSLOCK system, and it needs to be reset as above periodically and without explanation (sometimes) other times you will need to outright replace the ignition.

But the reset will get you by for awhile - I have done it about twice in the last year.

"WAIT for THEFT" - I don't think the insurance company would be anxious to pay out a claim where the key was left in the ignition.

Is this advice in the manual?

My Camry 300 has a resistor key which must be inserted in a socket in the boot whenever the alarm system starts misbehaving. The procedure is described in the manual.

The cause of this error must be somewhere else, for example a sensor where the reading is critical to the program but not to the running of ther car.

Out of curiosity - Do you know any more detail?

More detail would enable the designers to rectify.

Yes it is in the manual.

Guest - Now that is a service to humanity.

PLEASE REGISTER we would like to have you here and know you by name.

"service to humanity."

Yes - I hope to get the word out, I hate to think how much money GM Passlock user's have been taken by mechanics over this little detail.

"Sorry, but you need a new fuel pump, relay, injectors, and computer module - the total will be about $1500"

Then again, this may piss off some mechanics and loss them work - oh well.

I am too lazy to register, but thanks for the offer.

Thank u very much I will try this first, It will be tomorrow am before I can for the car is on the other side of town. I will rply with the outcome thanks again.

No worries.

It is a VERY simple fix for a very common problem with GM cars with PASSLOCK.

(A lot of people like to go off on tangents - replace pump, replace relay, test wires,............. - but more other than not it is this simple)

It is even explained in the User manual.

Well the PASSLOCK system was not the prob. I changed the fuel filter just due to the fact its cheap to do, when i took the old filter and dumped it out it was black and had what looked like dirt but it was bore like a sludge. the car still does not run but it did try to idle better than before. I have come to the conclusion it is the fuel pump. it seems to try to run when i hit the fuel tank on the bottom. I'm guessing i need to flush the system since the tank will be on the ground and have the fuel pump out? if so what all do i do to accomplish this and what about the injectors?

Get yourself a fuel pressure gauge and check for pressure/volume before you start changing out parts randomly. Check the service manual for pressure specs for your make and model, and also verify that you have at least a pint of fuel delivery in a ten second interval.

There are several of us on this site who are experienced auto technicians and engineers, and we are trying to get folks to do one thing first: check the basics.

Just change the battery in your remote lock / key operator.

This is quite common when the battery runs out.

You can get the car to turn over - it starts but stopp within a few short seconds.

Try this - it is very cheap & is generally the source of the problem.

I like replacing the Key battery solution, but if even that doesn't work, I once had a Jeep that did the same thing. It turned out to be a small plastic filter in the gasoline tank that was designed to catch particles before they went into the fuel pump. Unfortunately if you had used a certain type of fuel additive (I don't recall which) something in it would cause the plastic in the filter to swell and after a minute or less the car would starve for fuel and die.

Please remember to at least give us the year,make and model if you want help!!!

Pass/key is probably not your problem as you said it will start and rev after fuel is introduced into the thottle body . You also say you can hear the pump relay click at key start. Your problem is probably the fuel pump.

Checks :

If you dont have a fuel pres. gauge , loosen or remove the fuel line at the fuel rail, if your not sure which is feed and which is return , loosen or remove both lines . The next step will piss fuel out so be sure to have lots of rags stuffed in or if you have removed the lines be sure to stick a hose on them to let fuel drain into a container .

Unplug the connector at whatever type of ignition system you have to prevent power to the plugs.

Turn key to start momentarily and see if fuel is being pumped . No fuel = bad pump .

yes fuel = ignition problem.

If pump is problem remove rear seat bottom only not back of seat , if your lucky there will be a hatch in the floor . Remove the hatch and the pump/gauge assy. will be accessible there so you dont have to remove the tank to replace the pump assy.

If no hatch , you must remove the fuel tank to replace the pump . ( big nasty job )

Note : If you change the pump yourself be sure to clean the crap off the lock ring and spray lots of wd40 on it , use a BRASS drift to remove the lock ring or a spark from any other type of tool will set off the fuel tank and you are crispy critters!!!

This repair is not a big deal if you are lucky with the hatch and use the proper tools as stated above .

Going to replace the fuel pump now that I have the money but before I do how do I make sure the pump is getting power? The relay is good as is all the fuses but can I check the harness next to the pump for power and if so where is it?

On your Cavalier, there will be a harness connection which connects the body harness to the tank harness. On the body harness side, take a digital volt/ohm meter (DVOM), or a test light and connect to the body harness. I cannot remember which wire is power feed to the pump, but there will be (I think) four wires. One is power feed, one is ground for the pump, the other two will be the wires for the fuel level sender unit.

With the fuel tank out, and the pump (with tank wiring harness) out of the tank, you should be able to examine the tank harness as it goes to the pump, and then trace back to the harness connector and figure out which wire is the power feed to the pump, from the body harness (If you do not have a wiring diagram). The connector on the pump body should be stamped "+" and "-".

Connect to the body harness, and cycle the key to ON (not to START). On this GM vehicle, if you have power, the test light will light up for about 2 seconds. As well, a DVOM will indicate power for this period of time.

It only powers up for 2 seconds in ON because if the car's ECM (onboard computer) does not see an RPM signal. it will cut power to the fuel pump.

Check the tank harness as well for continuity in the wiring before you go too far as well. If it all checks, plug in the mechanical and electrical connections from the assembled tank to the body harness and recheck for pump operation. Again, no RPM signal (no engine turning over) it will cycle for 2 seconds and shut the pump down.

Bolt it all together if it works and try it out for proper operation.

Good luck.