Machining Perspex

Hey Ky!

Your designs look absolutely brilliant. Very aesthetically pleasing. Given your specs (10mm thick and 0.5 mm tolerance), I'd say water-cutting for the planar shapes is your best bet - its usually prefered over laser cutting when the material thickness exceeds around 6 mm. This process can be expensive - its great that you've designed for minimum wastage - keep in mind the standard sizes of material that your manufacturer can order too (e.g. for Aluminium sheet, 601x1201mm is the worst size for a plate you can order, as they mostly come with dimensions of integer multiples of 600mm). Most places in Aus prefer A0 sized DXF. files to cut from -I've found that If you arrange as many cut-outs as possible on the same drawing sheet, it seems to be cheaper per part! (dunno why... must be psychological). As far as your molded pieces go, I'm not really one to give advice - all I can say is that when I've done epoxy resin molding before, I've had considerable trouble with CO2 and other gases being released gradually after you mix in the hardener, often leaving bubbles trapped in finished piece (even if you're vacuum forming) which I think you'd want to avoid, given that its appearance important. There are ways to prevent this, but the curing time takes yonks.

Hope that helps

TinTin

Thank you Tin Tin

-I've found that If you arrange as many cut-outs as possible on the same drawing sheet, it seems to be cheaper per part! (dunno why... must be psychological).

That was the basis of my concept, to cut once and create 2 pieces and have only the "saw dust" as waste or molecules of perspex, if water jet is used. All designs are based on standard sheet sizes for perspex. They hardly differ from other standard sheet sizes. It would be fun to make one version from aluminum but that would hit the back pocket even harder, I suspect.

I have contacted some companies who have the tools/technology you mention but had no reply. One offs don't seem to fit their profile but more repetitive stuff. If I would order 50 tables and 200 chairs and give them a deposit I'm sure one would be able to do business. Just the materials for a set would be around $600 plus freight and machining. Wanting only one or three reduces their interest in a project like this considerably, which is understandable.

Thanks again and see what else comes up. Just wetting a line really, Ky.

I forgot to mention that all edges (except the fits, were the parts meet) would have to be rounded or at least beveled. Ah, and I'm happy you like them, Ky.

No worries Ky - I'm sure a lot of people will like them! They almost look like ice sculptures, very cool ...er... pardon the pun. Given the low quantities and finishing required, you could produce them yourself like you did with those prototypes. While it might not be the most desirable option, I'm sure you'll get a lot of satisfaction from making them. Do you know what sort of price people are willing to pay for them? Perhaps the percieved cost of outsourcing their manufacture is actually worth it - there'd be some chique bars and cafe's in melbourne and sydney that'd go for this sort of thing, aside from collectors and art lovers.

Hi Tin Tin

Just the amount of shavings from one table could make a nice front yard Xmas display if I use the router. And then the noise it makes, not to mention the smells when things get too hot and they do, even when using lubricants of what ever kind. Detergent and grape seed oil emulsion have worked great but it is still a very tricky operation. Every time I start on one, my neighbors know that it will be noisy for a while and I want to avoid that in the future. Sanding, polishing and flaming the edges for clear versions is the least of my problems.

Because the prices have to be in the realm of sculpture, if I make them by hand, I want to find a less costly and less annoying way of having them made. Thanks for your in put, I appreciate it, Ky.

Good idea...bad idea.

Let me explain...great design, looks real great. Personally I would not have put up pictures of the finished product. You have given the idea to someone else who is probably already got their machines cutting in some cheap labour country. I hope I'm wrong for your sake.

All the best...sorry i don't have experience in plastics.

Have you worked for IKEA before?

Thank you guest

That is very considerate of you to be concerned about copy cats. Like I mentioned, I have a few more designs up my sleeve and am not worried. There are a few other things to consider making this design workable and they are not shown in detail.

Just showing it here on CR4 makes any copy cats impotent. Its better and cheaper this way (excluding IP professionals) and I fear no competition. If they start up mass production, who cares? It is the art that counts and it is mine and that is good enough for me.

I appreciate your concern and can not reveal the real issue or advantage with these tables. They have a twist and that twist is still with me. Let them do it and they will see, that negotiating with me, would have been a much smarter move than to try and rip me off. They are able to pinch the song but not the singer, if you know what I mean.

And, no, I have not worked for them (Ikea) before but if they would ask I would consider showing all, including the twist which has not been published. I will keep that close to me chest.

Thanks again, take care, Ky.

We make small custom perspex panels (approx 220mm x 130mm) for loudspeakers and other associated electronics using a small CNC miller. Bevels and radiused edges can formed. Our miller is quite slow and it may not be possible to speed up much without melting the perspex. We use one run with an ordinary drill bit to remove most of the material quickly and then another run with a milling bit to clean up and do any profiling. This approach would certainly be able to cut out the parts, but it may not be possible to speed it up enough to make furniture sized parts.

Hi Chankley

Yeah, it always seems to be a trade off and short cuts seem to be as rare as hens teeth. Its been bugging me since a while now but I'm sure there are some that have more expieriance with the matter than I have. Pre drilling is some thing I have not thought of so thank you for your tip, Ky.

I could make the first design in my wood shop easy enough. I even have a set of plans for a table that looks very similar to your first picture. The legs are slotted so it can come apart far storage or to make it somewhat portable.

I don't know anything about perspex though. Have you looked in purchasing a CNC machine of your own. They make smaller less industrial sized ones far home shops. They'll handle regular size 4'x8' sheets of materials and come with the software to do the layout with as little waste as possible. I've even considered buying one. I can't think of the particular name of the one I would like to save my $ far.

Here are examples of what I'm talking about.

http://www.torchmate.com/catalog/catalog/index.htm

http://www.epiloglaser.com/

It really looks like a get poor quick exercise at the moment. (from original post)

I know. The examples you are suggesting will not tolerate my surroundings, not allow for even light industrial. Perspex is a hard to handle material and does not give up that easy, if you want it to do what you want it to do. I am sure it would be achievable if I had a fully equipped work shop but my location puts a brake on matters. Besides, I am just trying to over come the odds, from were I am. Thank you for your suggestions, I'll have a scotch on you, for the moment being, thanks, Ky.

I have been ordering custom parts, and the general rule is that the first is most expensive as that is where all the set-up costs go. I asked for prices for 1-off and 5-off: £165 each single, £45 each for 5. No doubt 1000 would cost about the same as the raw material!

Hello Ky,

I really love your furniture!

I think clear or translucent furniture is unusual and makes a room look bigger?

Find below, in order of Country::

Australia

USA

UK

Keep in touch and all the luck in the world with your venture!

=================================================== AUSTRALIA

Results 1 - 10 of about 26,500 for machining perpex in australia. (0.23 seconds) THE DUCTILE-BRITTLE TRANSITION WHEN MACHINING PERSPEX undesirable phenomenon also occurs when machining perspex at heavy feed rates, ... Proc. of Tewkesbury Conf. on Fracture, Melbourne, Australia (August). ... www.informaworld.com/index/773187886.pdf

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by RF Scrutton - 1965 Hamilton Australia, Fume Cupboards, Fume Extraction, Perspex - Home Signs, Letters and Numbers any machining parts in all types of plastics. ... 2009 Hamilton Australia, Fume Cupboards, Fume Extraction, Perspex. www.hamiltonaustralia.com.au/

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==================================================== USA

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==================================================== UK

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ISO:9001 Acrylic Machining Experts Competitive, Responsive Service Search Results Perspex Sheet - Workshop Manual "Working with Perspex" The machining characteristics of Perspex from Lucite are similar to those of soft ... diamond-tipped tools are particularly suitable for machining Perspex. ...

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Searches related to: machining perspex

laser cutting perspex perspex acrylic sheet

Thank you very much babybear.

I have received this on a Sunday afternoon and those links have made the room smaller. I shall have a closer look and appreciate the time you must have spent trying to help me out.

I shall name this chair after you "Baby Bear". I think it could fit one if not your self one day.

Appreciation from here, Ky.

Hello Ky,

I hope you are well and have luck with whatever you decide to do when and if you manufacture it!

No problems, it is my pleasure! I know you have Australia on your profile but, I also know it may not be your domicile. That is why I also included the others. It was too much to do all the Continents though!...........;=)

Let me know how you get on and what you used to make the stuff you photographed please?

I am really interested in this type of furniture........see PM.

I am really interested in this type of furniture.....

Hi bb, that is what I am hearing here too. Many have commented and made inquiries about them. That is the reason I came and asked on CR4 but so far it seems to be stuck in the sculpture department. There are, like I said, other advantages which make this design a true novelty and very attractive to have. I can not mention this here because it would give away too much.

The proto types I have were made by using different hand tools Like jig saw and router and a lot of elbow grease and some jigs and tricks.

Talk to you soon, Ky.

Hi Ky,

A thought out of left field, and I have no idea if it will work. Perhaps piano wire heated by a soldering iron transformer or similar, would "melt" its way through leaving a smooth edge.

Would be important to keep a consistent feed rate to get a good and uniform finish.

It may be necessary to use something other than piano wire if the perspex tries to stick to it.

I think I have some perspex scrap around, so I might give it a try and see if it works.

I'll let you know.

Hi sceptic

Thanks for your thoughts on this. I hope you have not gone through the trouble of trying what you are suggesting. I think you will find that perspex is not easy to tame. The heat requiered, to allow for smooth cutting, would bring other problems with it. I have not tried it my self but doubt it would work, while leaving a cosmetically exeptable finish.

Thank you for your input, Ky.

PS: I am still working on the "injector" and have had some very interesting thoughts backed up by some observations known to us all. I shall keep you up to date.

Hi Ky

The definition of "junk" is something you keep for years and then throw away just before you want to use it.

Unfortunately, my stray piece of perspex fits that defintion perfectly, so I was unable to try it out.

Hi Ky,

I am the production manager for a signage company based in Maryborough Qld. We cut this stuff all day long on our routers.

I think your designs are very stylish and have some serious potential.

I would be happy to cut you some trial pieces at cost in the hope that more work would follow. I would hesitate to offer accuracy of 0.5mm though, the sheet material doesn't even keep that tolerance.

Engraver

Good to hear from you. Just around the corner too. If you handle that material all day you know what I am talking about. Impossible to do were I am. You are realistic about tolerances,I know. These are tolerances when water jet is used, or so they say.

I will send you a private mail regarding this. Thank you for your support, Ky.

Hi Ky,

I believe perspex can be cut using a band or scroll saw, if you put masking tape on the cut first to avoid splintering.

This could be a way to make small numbers for prototyping, though water jet would be the way I would go for production.

We need to catch up sometime and scribble on a few more serviettes!

Regards

G'day my friend

We'll be up that way soon and I'll drop in or we could meet somewhere else. The perspex treatment and manufacture is solved.

Talk soon, Ky.