Car Crashes and Check Engine Codes

Its possible with fuel being dump into the engine and restarting it, the raw fuel and backfire could damage the O2 sensor along with the muffler and catalytic converter.

Does the car run ok until it warms up?

The make, model, year, engine type would help us to give you an informed info.

Charles

It sounds like an engine tuning adjustment is required, which can be done at the regular servicing outlet. In the UK, the engine emission must fall inside certain parameters than can be adjusted relatively simply either during, or at other intervals between, the annual MoT test. Servicing outlets are well-equipped these days, will have the wherewithall to effect the diagnosis and adjustment, and it shouldn't be a large £value to carry out.

1) make sure all the vacuum hoses are connected. if one is pulled off between the MAF sensor and the engine, you would get those codes/symptoms. esp. look for a crack in the duct behind the MAF.

2) the test for an intermittent MAF used to be: rap it with a screwdriver handle, the impact may have done that.

(best I can do w/o vehicle specifics)

Hi bonsaicult,

This site below has lots of details about MAF.

cleanmaf

Things to remember is that any damage to the muffler will alter the way the engine runs. I know it was a rear end 'shunt', but depending on hard it was, the front may have momentarily been lifted, or possibly pushed into a curb? Was there anything 'loose' that may have been thrown about the engine bay?

Any sudden movement could effect any connections in pipes to pipes, pipes to engine, some electrical things and for sure some electronics and electronic plugs and sockets, just as could very bumpy roads and perhaps cattle grids.

Check the main battery connection and its connection to its various part of the engine.

Obviously, the older the car the more likely that some switches and or plugs and socket and sensors, are likely to be damaged in a shunt as you describe. You say the brake lines failed. I do not think they would have failed just by foot pressure only, maybe there was some of the pipe that was shifted as the collision happened.

One good point,............ Your life may have been saved by the brakes failing in this way. Rather than when at full motorway speed?

Check out the site above, and good luck.

First Issue: Consider yourself to have received a life-saving message from?--Your braking system has deteriorated to a deadly decrepit level. Any brake line so corroded as to rupture like you described should have been detected and replaced at least 2 years ago, probably 5-10 years ago. ANY corrosion on a brake line that is more than can be wiped away with an oily rag calls for replacement.

Second issue: The MAF most likely has failed from impact damage to a fragile sensing element--they do not like impacts. The 'low output' fault code indicates either a loose connection,damaged wire, or faulty sensor. Perhaps your car should be scrapped (totaled) and you given a reasonable cash settlement? A new rear bumper cover, replacing brake lines, replaced exhaust system, (never try to weld repair an accident damaged exhaust system) including catalyst and mufflers, MAF, body repair etc. may cost $5,000 or more.

Doesn't your neck and back hurt?

As noted in your other replies, the mechanical and electronic issues are many, varied, and potentially interact with each other.

I did not see any replies regarding how to deal with the insurance company. If you have not done so, write to the insurance company stating that things worked prior to the crash and ask them for their reasons for believing that their insured client is not liable for any damages that may have occurred to the engine, transmission, exhaust system, brakes, and so forth,

and

ask why they believe that their client is not liable for the cost of determining the cause(s) of the malfunctions that originated at the time of the crash.

If this does not get the desired result, if you have an attorney for a friend, see if he will send a similar letter on his letterhead for a reasonable fee, such as something less than the cost of having a shop check out all your engine electronic controls and sensors.

I won't get on my soap box about insurance companies, but if you've been paying them for years now for emergency situations like this, wouldn't it hack you off if they chocked up all your newfound problems to an old car (or something like that)? Make em do their job. You have a car. It worked before the accident. Now you have all kinds of problems with it IMMEDIATELY after the accident. Isn't that one of their primary responsibilities to their customer? To make those problems go away?

Sounds like the right way eh, but actually attacking an insurance company is nearly futile depending upon your resources and time to expend it.

Another approach is to bring suit against the party that hit you personally; not in small claims, yes they'll need to contend with their insurance about it but your case is with the party that hit you.

Hi wire,

Yes I would choose the claim against the person who hit me! Let them have the hassle as they are responsible for the problems anyway. Nice one my friend.

Good luck.

How long (time and mi/km) since the incident ... so that you know that the computer has had sufficient driving by you in order to realign/recalibrate itself ... ? Ine the mean time, never settle (for less than a whole lot) until all damage is confirmed repaired/repairable. Important point: insurance adjusters are not qualified to make the determination you say they made (and it's possible you did not even speak to an adjuster...only a claims rep (a warm body that answers phones). Again, don't let them rush you and don't let them think you can't outlast them. (You can also use the fact that its rear end and you want to assure as to latent injury.)

Since your foot slipped from clutch pedal at impact, ... correct to assume you were near to stopping point, say, at stop signal (and had not taken defensive look back)??

I take it the car is still drivable. Have you continued to drive—say, 5 to 20 miles in one stretch—to see if the car/computer accommodates and clears the errors (this assuming you reset the fuel pump cutoff if required [or not]). You might live near ocean water, or where roads are salted, but those rusty lines suggests a car with advanced years and/or usage; so it's no surprise that they wonder about it having a preexisting condition...even if not codes latched prior to the mishap. Consider also, that the insurer might wonder if the estimate (typically in the 700-900 dollar range) for bumper skin renewal and repainting will actually be paid—usually they are not, a mere over painting instead—when their objective will be to pay the cost and nothing more ... no windfall.

If the problem persists you will probably be obliged to pay for the repairs yourself (be sure to get service shop who will testify...or at least sign an affidavit) and then you after settlement later on. The insurer will not give credence to your own opinion...or to that of this forum.