What is the correct ATF for a 95 Dodge Cummins automatic tranny?

It is supposed to have ATF+3 (Mopar 7176). ATF+4 supersedes ATF +3, so it would be good as well. The Dextron is wrong and needs to be changed if it's not too late already.

It is supposed to have ATF+3 (Mopar 7176). ATF+4 supersedes ATF +3, so it would be good as well. The Dextron is wrong and needs to be changed if it's not too late already.

Should I have the fluid pumped out as by dropping the pan it still leaves a lot of the old fluid in. Is there a drain plug on the torque converter as the older trannies used to have? Is there any way to do a DIY to get the job done? I have a 1980 transit bus with a 730 Allison automatic and the Allison people instructed me to take the line from the tranny to the cooler and add new fluid to the tranny with the engine running til the new fluid came out the line. It was fairly simple on the bus but things are a little more congested in the truck. I live in a remote area and I would have to drive 60 miles or more to a shop. And on that subject, are the quick fix lube shops with the semi stoned twenty somethings at the throttle a good idea or would one want to go to another venue. I really appreciate the info.

Pumping it out of the cooler would work, though I'd do it carefully. If that is too much of a hassle, you'll have to change it by dropping the pan, maybe a few times. The torque converter does not have a drain. You could find a repair shop with a transmission fluid exchanger and do that and replace the filter too.

Greetings.

AMSOIL.

100 % synthetic.

Regular transmission fluid starts to burn at 285 Degress F and leaves a deposit.

AMSOIL starts to evaporate at 600 Degrees F and leaves no deposit.

At -50 Degress F AMSOIL works at the best conditions in Hyder, Alaska's rough climate per John McLaughlin once missionary in Alaska.

I have 1992 Dodge Dakota with 223,000+ miles and it works great for last 104,000 miles when I bought it in 1997.

Hope this helps

Have a Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year

It usually says right on the dip stick what fluid to use. How many miles are on this transmission? Were you having problems with the transmission already or was the reason for the change of oil for preventive maintenance? We tow a big race car trailer with a Dodge diesel and it just seems that they "sudder" naturally. I think all these different kinds of fluid is just a scam to get their piece of crap to last to last while using cheaper frictions. It is unfortunate that all these trucks have transmissions that are built and highly engineered to just get through the warranty period.

It may be that the trans is just dying.......Good luck and Merry Christmas everybody on CR4........

beware the misplaced decimal point.......

The transmission wasn't having any problems before I changed the fluid and filter. I like to change the fluid and filter more often than the recommended interval as I feel that this is definitely helplful for the longevity of the tranny. I have talked to other people who have run the Dodge Cummins with the automatic and they have told me that the symptoms I described is typical of the beast. I just thought it odd that the symptoms never started until I changed the fluid. I hope the tranny isn't in its death throes but that is always a possibility. It's good to get these different takes on the situation. I agree that most of these machines are engineered to last through the warranty period.

I checked the dipstick as recommended by The Wrench and it says some brand of Mopar, not ATF+3 or 4 OR, Dexron 2. Now I'm not sure what to think except to bite the bullet and but the mucho expensive Amsoil and give that a try. Most anything would be better than paying for a rebuild. I appreciate all the info put forth. Thanks and Merry Christmas.

7176?

There is nothing you can buy in a bottle that will magically replace wear and tear. If you decide to try transmission seal renewer or whatever they name it (I'm not referring to Amsoil which is a fine product), it will only soften all the seals and other soft parts and allow them to wear at an accelerated rate. The improved operation and sealing action is only temporary enough to get it sold in the next month.

Evaluate the engine, chassis, suspension components, brakes, tires, body panels, interior, instrumentation, heater/air conditioner. etc. If all of those are in reasonable condition and you really like the truck, you owe it to the truck to invest in the transmission. Otherwise, say your goodbyes and move on to your next truck.

In response to Frank's garage, yes the dipstick does call for Mopar 7176...or, Dexron 2. And Jaguar, I'm not about to waste a bunch of money on additives as the general consesus on that issue seems to be that they do as you suggest, wear the seals and other soft parts at an accelerated rate. One other thing, this truck sits through the summers here, where the temperature regularly hits 115 and above and the air is very dry. Would that affect the seals or are all the internal parts immersed in fluid regardless of whether the pump is running or not? Also, I see in my "trusty" Chilton's manual that there is a transmission controls system with wiring coming directly from the vehicle computer. Could there be a problem there? The transmission doesn't really slip, it just doesn't want to take off very fast in 3rd gear. If I put it in 2nd it will accelerate well and then I can shift it back into 3rd and when it gets to between 45 and 50 it will shift into overdrive or lockkup whichever that gear is called. Once it is warmed up and driven for a few miles, it works properly. I'm just not quite ready to throw in the towel on the tranny so I'm still looking for a possible cure. Once again, thanks for all the input.

Leaving the vehicle idle is always a gag of worms. It should be started and driven a little until warmed up about once a month. All sorts of odd problems can develop due to setting idle for extended times. Power steering pump seals, transmission rear and input seals, axle seals, etc. can deform due to the weight of shafts running through them, vacuum hoses can deteriorate ant it would be easier to detect and replace them when it is more convenient. Internal seals immersed in fluid are also prone to such settling deformation but are kept resilient enough to return to normal when they come to temperature. As long as you are using a quality fluid, you shouldn't have problems with varnish or other sticky compounds developing. But it's still prudent to run the vehicle occasionally. Use a stabilizer in the fuel. I just got back from picking up a snow blower from the shop ($93.00) which I drained and wicked out as much fuel as possible at the end of the season last year. The day before a snowfall last week, I put in new gas/oil fuel and ran it for 15 minutes. The next day it wouldn't start. The new fuel loosened scale that had formed from whatever bits of fuel were left in the carb and dried up, and plugged the carburetor jet. Lesson learned: leave at least a half a tank of fuel, preferably more to prevent condensation, and add stabilizer.

Electronic controls can always be the source of a problem as they rely on information from many sensors, any of which can have at the very least, a broken or unplugged wire. Have that checked first. A reprogramming does wonders for my computer, likewise a transmission. I have a sensor connector on my '99 Mercury power steering pump, probably pressure or presence-or-absence of fluid, which broke off, probably when I had to fiddle with the oil filer to remove it from "jail". Haven't had any lights or bells yet but if anything odd occurs, I'm checking that first.

I would get the Dexron out of there ASAP!! I already lost one Mopar transmission due to that, to the tune of a couple of grand.Replace it with ATF+4 and after running it for a bit (say 500 miles?) change it again. If you are lucky, you haven't destroyed the transmission yet.

Ah for the good ol' days when there was only one version of ATF, and if you couldn't get that you used 5w motor oil.

Dexron and MOPAR do not mix.

Bill