While setting the gear sets in assembly, to ensure the proper positioning of the gears with respect to each other several checks are done.
One of the most commonly used is to check for the contact and back lash.
The contact check have many variants-
Put a thin coat of prussian blue in one of the gears (usually the driving one) and rotate the gear back and forth a few times to transfer the blue to the other (driven gear). Obviously if a thin enough coat is put, the blue on the other gear will be transferred only on contact area.
Study this with reference to standard pattern vis a vis the gear type (bevel, worm, helical, spur, each have their standard patterns, and each differ from other).
This is done along with the backlash check ie the contact and backlash each must be simultaneously achieved (backlash is the physical gap between the nondrive flanks of the gears when the drive flanks are engaged).
The other method may be red laquer check, where a few teeth of both the gears are painted with thin quick drying oil resistant paint/laquer. The gear is run for some time and the area where the paint has been removed (due to gears in contact) is studied. This is usually done after the gears are aligned as above and then the actual condition ensured by this method.
Carbon paper transfer I have not come across, due to the effect of thickness of the paper, there may be errors, but may be done else where when the gears are non-precision & large.
Only particularly true, Dykem blue is used for layouts, Dyem is brushed or sprayed and it dries so it can be scribed to visually see the lines, Prussian Blue is like a gel and does not dry, and is used to check where mechanical parts have contact such as checking alignment for gears as stated above or checking for even wear i.e. tapered tool holder in a machine spindle, the bluing pushes away where the metal has contact. also used in setting up and checking form dies, the die maker can see how upper & lower die section are mating and remove material here needed to generate the proper form
I'm not familiar with Dykem, it that a manufacturers name?
I've always known the non-drying blue as Engineer's Blue & the drying type as layout blue but, as we all know, these terms have a habit of changing depending on your trade & location.
I came across a page which shows a good example of the use of Engineer's Blue to check how gears mesh, about half way down this page.
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My apologies, Dykem is a "Brand name" and is a layout blue, and Prussian Blue would be the same as your Engineers blue. Dykem may be exclusive the USA because I don't recall seeing any other brand of layout blue. (does come in other colors) Just like a "Allen wrench" is only a hex wrench for socket head screw. not sure if Allen wrench a common reference in the UK?
Funny we use both terms wrench & key, Key would be the proper term, I look up some of the history on Allen, but SPS "Standard Press Steel" seems to have most of the market here, The Allen brand name just seem to stick, SPS started in my home town of Philadelphia I live 20 minutes from there and work about 10 minutes from SPS.
Also I know some people that worked at SPS and they did not like it when you would say "Allen key" , they would correct you and say it's called a "hex key"
I like Number two's answer. The bluing is not always of the type that drys. In some cases like where a mold has to close well enough to stop the melted plastic from flashing or extending between where the molds come together this non drying bluing will be pressed to leaving only the faintest blue color at contact and progressively leave a tapering darker blue to slightly wider gaps. Some gaps of .0007 of an inch for example can be purposely made to allow gasses to be released but not the plastic. At .0015 of an inch and bigger flashing can occur, even less for other plastics like nylon.
This same non drying bluing can show how square to each other squared blocks are when an assembly of them are put together in a square cavity.
Our Guest, Reply #2 has given a very good response. I would like to add that years ago we did use a method to check gears that did involve using a special paper that would leave an a blue marking on the gears. It was not common carbon paper however. The method was used to check where the teeth first made contact and how they rolled into the next tooth. It would also show you if the contact was in a straight line across each profile (not too useful on helical teeth) and was used on speed reducing gears.
Misalignment could create a situation where there was not a uniform even tooth loading and spalling and flaking of the teeth will result. It could also be a result of uneven bearing wear. Depending on the tooth profile there is a proper meshing point that should be maintained as I recall. If the mark was too high or too low on the tooth profile new bearings or shimming was required to prevent major tooth damage.
I never saw Prussian blue used except during the gear cutting and hobbing in the original manufacturing process.
I was commenting strictly on the basis of gears. Many of the comments took different tracks i.e. mold fitting, layouts etc. We use Dykem to lay out FAI's for castings all the time. I worked with many mold makers and they used it all the time. My reference was to the original query about "carbon paper bluing" of gears.
As to babbitt bearing shells, yes I have seen it used there and I have also used thin lead sheets or wire to measure the clearances in babbitt lined bearings. I even remember when a Crescent Wrenches were called "water pump pliers".
I even think that some of the paper was more like pressure sensitive paper than bluing paper and that the pressure points of contact of the gears showed up on the paper rather than leaving a blue mark on the gears. I should probably check with my old colleague Alley Oop on that one.
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