Wiring Diagram for Stovetop Element Switch

Post Script: I forgot to mention, I do not even know if it is the correct replacement regulator. Your stove model given does not come up as a valid model on the GE parts site I checked. I could not cross anything... This I believe a good idea when BURNIN' DOWN YER HOUSE is a real possibility. All the less 'warm and fuzzy' there.

Perhaps double check the stove model, and confirm you actually have the correct part. I believe it would be prudent.

After further resarch I believe I have a bad switch.It is for a dual element electric stove heater element.The element has one common conductor,at the center of the two elements, and a contact for each element.

The switch has an internal heater element that causes a bi metallic switch contact to open.Varying the control knob changes the tension on the bimetallic element, thereby varying the duty cycle of the heating element.A very cheap (and crude) way of controlling a stove top element. This is like a switch on a cheap hot plate.

I am really disappointed in GE for not having proportional control on this very expensive stove.

GE SUCKS!!!!(IMHO)

I will never buy another GE product,Not even light bulbs (Just my way of protesting.)

In the meanwhile, I will try to get this switch replaced due to it being D.O.A from the supplier.

Thanks for the links and your help.

Guest,

Think about it, a bimetalic switch with a heater does provide proportional power to the stovetop element. The frequency may be a lot lower than 60 Hz, but the power is still proportional to how far you turn the knob.

Luther M

The control is OFF-ON control.It cycles slowly and allows the thermal mass of the smooth cooktop to average out the temperature.The duty cycle is varied by turning the knob.It does a very poor job of control, with constant temperature swings.Very hard to regulate an even temperature.P.Poor design and performance.

My old stove had an infinite temp control that worked properly, and it was over 35 years old when I traded "up" to GE.Wish I had my old stove back, but wife said it was "dated".

Dated alright , back to the good old days when we had real engineers designing stoves.Now the name of the game is "cut cost" maximize profit.Never mind about repeat customers.How many stoves is a person going to buy in a lifetime?

Only 1 GE if they are smart.

IMHO.

Im an appliance repair tech. by trade and run into this problem often .

The bimetal type switch you describe is usually used on a common element type stove and not a " glass top " where the elements are hidden .

Be certain your Make , Model and Serial # are correct before ordering parts.

Also look for extra info. on the i.d. plate such as Type # etc.,

Include info. such as ... left rear or right front or if its a warming element or a heating element etc.

Hears the kicker ; a lot of manufactures will send a " universal " switch to replace a o.e.m. switch and the schematic and bag of jumpers etc. that comes with the new switch is usually lousy and gives just enough info. to confuse the hell out of you .

So , if you are DIY , specify a O.E.M. switch when ordering.

Hope this helps .