Driving Screws at 90 Degrees

An "offset screwdriver" might be able to fit, and I have even seen small ratcheting screwdrivers with less than 1/2 inch along the axis of the screw to be turned.

They must exist; after all, someone screwed the assembly together in the first place.

I agree with lynlynch. His example is the one that came to mind.

I have at least one of each pictured so far... the right angle drive (as opposed to the rotational ratchet) is the easiest to use... if you have the space.

Ok, thank you. Just bought one like model B, 4 mm head. It is small, but it did the job.

For a momento I thought I wouldn't find anything. Visited several toolshops, including the two largest industrial supplies stores, but they didn't have anything. Finally found the Z screwdriver at an electric supplies store.

That's yet another one of the aspects of economic underdevelopment.

You can use 1/4" drive bits with the correct tip for the screw your removing. Then you use either 1/4" open end or closed end wrench to turn it. You would need to apply some pressure to the end of the bit to keep it seated in the screw's slot. The pressure could be from your finger or something else that would fit in the space.

1/4" bit kits come in all shapes and sizes for most types of screws slots. There even bits kits designed for tamper resistance screws. Most are not to expensive to have a set on hand.

Now here another Idea is if the screws are blocked But nothing other than a side panel. You could drill an access holes for your screwdriver to go through to reach the screws. Then use a plug of some type to close the holes when not needed.

I was THIS close to cut a hole in the side... but then I remembered I have to get the test mill back to my customer after the inspection. Drilling sounds better anyway.

gussosa, If the disassemble you were performing could be related to someone servicing of the unit and the screws are hard to reach. Unless the assembly is removed in a different manor. Then I would suggest to the manufacture the modification of the unit by adding the access holes for the screws. Provided the holes would not affect operations. The holes could either be plugged or a cover plate over the area.

What cost a few cents(USA) more in manufacture save dollars in the field in repair/service cost.

The person designing a piece of equipment may not see a problem the same way someone who would service the equipment would.

Oh how I would love to talk with some equipment designers of things I've had to work on.

Charles

The nuts are not the problem, but that tool is really cool. I will try to find some.

I'm a real sucker for any sort of mechanical tool & have many more than I need. I have one of the drivers suggested by lynlynch in post #2 but it is difficult to get any serious driving force into the screw with it.

MetalSmiths suggestion of using driver bits with a ratchet is good, even better if you have a ratcheting ring spanner.

For hex screws or nuts these finger spanners are great. I have a set & they are unbeatable for installing nuts in awkward locations as you can load the nut into the spanner first.

And for the lazy man.

And there are smaller ones.

Harbor Freight is your friend, they sell cheap Chicom stuff (mail order and in stores)but the tools are fairly high quality and are cheaper than dirt, and if they break you can buy four for the price of one name brand tool.

This is the tool you need.

This is the tool you need.

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I like that tool, and would have bought it immediately, but that doesn't exist in my city. I actually prefer solid (one piece) tools, but that would be a much cheaper option.

As I said, I ended buying a 4 mm offset screwdriver for a screw of 1/4". Fortunately it did the job.

They sell mail order/online as well. something to keep in the back of your mind when you need a tool and can't source it locally.

gussosa, the bits in the picture is example of what i was talking about and using a small 1/4" open end/closed end wrench.

Also from Harbor Freight tools the bit kits I suggested.

With the ratchet handle Rorschach suggested and the bit kit with either a magnetic bit driver or 1/4" socket and wrench you would most likely have the right bit for any equipment in the future.

Not to endorse any brand, I have used these type of bits for years other than normal wear for replacing some. I've only had two or three to twist the tip because locktite had been used.

Charles

Why struggle with the screw? Look the other side of the panel and find the mounting screws for the module. Remove the module and you will have plenty of room.

During the Falklands conflict, the QE2 was commandeered for a hospital ship with the lower decks being the operating theatres. To get the casualties below decks a special trolley was made with 2 short legs and 2 long legs so that the stretcher always remained level when being lowered down the stairs. 2 U channels were fixed to the stairs in which the trolley wheels ran. The trolleys were raised and lowered by using seamen who pulled the trolleys on ropes. An American General was amazed at the simplicity and efficiency and described this as a '10 cent solution to a multi million dollar problem'.

Think simple

Tony

Because of your location and getting the proper tools quickly is sometimes difficult, sometimes a person must improvise. In this case putting a screwdriver in a vise and bending it 90 degrees would have worked great and it would have taken only seconds to make it.

Wouldn't that break the conventional chromium-vanadium-molybdenum screwdriver?

We are not talking of 1020 carbon steel here.

Honestly I have no idea what most common, average priced screwdrivers are or were made of in earlier years but I have bent 4 of them myself with no heat just bending them in a vice and they did not break or become cracked. Over the years I have come across basically the same problem you ran into so thats why I bent mine. 1 Robertson head (Square) 1 Phillips head (Star) and 2 flat or slot which 1 I did not bend short enough so I had to do another one. Maybe the older screwdrivers were made of a softer or less brittle metal. I would guess mine were made in the 80's sometime. I kept the ones I bent and still use them on occasion.