1988 325I BMW

The injectors may be fouled and need to be cleaned. I can't imagine the rail is the problem.

If the fuel smells bad, I would drain and flush the tank, flush the fuel line, pump and replace fuel filter.

Then pull and flush/clean the rest of the fuel system.

This LINK may be helpful on the cleaning of the injectors.

Let us know how you make out.

AND - Thank You for your Service to this country!!!

I definately drained the fuel and replaced it. Where can I get a pressurized fuel injector cleaner? Does Autozone have them and do they come with solid instructions?

I had a diesel pick up truck once that had a crank position sensor that controlled the timing of the fuel injectors. When it went bad the truck would not start. Does this 88 325I have some sort of sensor that controls the timing of the injectors that may cause this problem?? If so do you know where it is located. And what ECU does this car have OBD 1/2??

Thanks again

David

I would try AutoZone. They also load free specialized tools, to.

I don't know when OBD I came out, but OBD II was in the mid 1990's, if memory serves, so OBD II is not going to be it.

As far as the rest of the specifics, I would join a BMW forum and start posting questions.

I have since moved on from the BMWs (I used to have an 1987 235e myself), but I do know that some of those forums have formable talent on them. Many are into these cars very, very much and deeply connected.

I bet you could get a wealth of information there.

You say that you sprayed gas into the throttle and it started right away. Did it continue running afterward?

Having owned a 1987 325e and 1988 325i I can say that you are in for some fun. Unless it was kept impeccably you are probably looking at some degraded vacuum lines, soiled and porous fuel lines and fouled injectors. Those cars while a dream to drive when running well, can (and will be) an absolute nightmare to work on when not running well. If you do suceed in getting the engine running correctly start saving up for when the slushbox decides to give up the ghost. If you are on a tight budget and want reliable transportation I would set a threshold of money where you look at other options if you exceed a certain cost. My 325e was a bottomless pit which had to periodically be filled with paychecks. (clutch, then transmission, every suspension component needed replaced, and come to find out the flywheel needed to be replaced as well after the clutch was installed) The problem with the cars is not only reliability past a certain age/mileage it is the cost of replacement parts, become a friend of bav-auto.com but still expect to pay dearly for your parts.

Good luck! If you can get it going satisfactorily those cars were well ahead of their time in fun factor and are undeniably well engineered cars.

-T

Besides the spot on suggestions of the previous poster, I forgot to mention another import thing.

When returning to service a vehicle that has been sitting for a time, think: fluids, fluids, fluids!

Not only is the fuel an issue, but on your short list should also be oil, brake fluid, power steering fluid, radiator, and transmission oil.

All can be a problem over time and it is a wise person that replaces all of them from the start.

Once I get the car running I will most definately change all the fluids. Water, brake,steering,tranny/filter/engine/filter and most likely do a tune up spark plugs,wires cap rotor, and lube every zerk fitting I can find. But for now i just need to get it to run.

Replace the fuel, and then the fuel filter. Then try spraying small amounts of fuel through the air intake to get it started. If that will not get it running, get the fuel pressure checked. If the fuel pump has died, you will notice it right away testing that way. If the fuel pressure is correct, your injectors may be clogged. It does not seem likely that all 6 injectors would fail at once, but it could happen. Leave that test for last. There are injector cleaning kits out there that allow you to pressurize a container of cleaner with shop air, and force it through the injectors. That should clean them out reasonably well. At least well enough to get the car started. Good luck. post back with results, or more questions.

And my thanks also for your service.

When I sprayed the gas into the throttle body it only ran for the amount of gas I sprayed in. Is there a throttle sensor or camshaft sensor that "times" the injectors that could be bad and not aloowing the car to run. Plan on getting a fuel pressure test kit from Autozone or one of theose parts stores and the injector cleaner that goes in pressurized.

It just seems strange that the car ran several weeks ago after sitting for years and not now. Like something electronic, but who knows I guess I'll just keep plugging away. I have even considered pushing it to a shop here around the corner and find out how much it would cost to have a diagnostics done and have them recommend which parts to change??

Thanks for all your suggestions they have been helpful.

David

If you had bad fuel it could have worked its way through and gummed up the system after running for a while.

Then again, it could be something unrelated and you are chasing your tail.

If you try to start it and then pull the plugs, are they wet? Do you smell fuel on them?

Since it starts and runs briefly when fuel is spritzed into the air passage, then you can safely assume the electrical system and the cam are working. It is almost certain to be the fuel system.

You may also want to have your Mass Airflow Sensor tested if you are still scratching your head.

The BMW forum would be the best resource for that procedure.

I am guessing here, but it fits the circumstances well and therefore its very likely too:-

The fuel in the line when you first started was OK (it was not exposed to air while in the line).

So it ran.

But the fuel in the tank was not OK (old petrol smells a bit like turpentine, it will burn on a fire - but don't try it!! - but not in an engine, also it was very dirty! It had been exposed to the air far too long, probably a steel tank, lots of rust.....)

You ran the engine long enough to use up the "good" petrol from the line and the pump and to suck in the bad and block the injectors.....

The rest of the advice from previous posts should help you fix the problems.

The Guy who wrote "fluids, fluids, fluids" was dead right, and you should never have started it before replacing them! (Perhaps he had a similar experience!)

You will know the next time.....so all is not lost!!

What is in the injectors now will probably be very fine rust and dirt. I expect that the tank has rusted while standing......

DO fit a quality fuel filter just before the engine before starting it again on fresh fuel.

DO make sure its one you can get at and replace quickly in the middle of the night with rain and a storm brewing.

DO make sure you carry a spare. (and a torch!!)

OR replace the tank with a brand new one........

Best of luck.....

Good thoughts!

Thanks.

Try this web-site. It has a lot of knowledgeable people that are willing to help, just like this site does.

http://www.automotiveforums.com/

From one Vet to another, Thank you for your service to our country.

1967-71

David,

I hate to seem simple here, but I think you missed a step. An electric fuel pump would still point to a power(electrical) issue.

1. Does your battery have a charge?

2. Is the alternator putting out more than 12VDC?

It has to put out more than 12VDC to run electronic devices (ECM, EFI, ....) and charge the battery.

The smell in the fuel tank could point to corrupted fuel, but... that could be old fuel. Has it been sitting for a long time? If so, it could have turned to varnish.

Check the fuel filter. If someone corrupted the fuel, the fuel filter could have caught it.

Try an injector cleaner in the fuel or ether. Most fuel cleaning products contain ether and it cshould break up varnish.

Hope this helps. Good luck and 'keep it simple'. Start with the simple things first. I have found over the last 50 years, it is usually something stupid that I did.

Dave

My guestimate is that you did provide the best way to test for ignition... spray fuel into the intake manifold. Your test proved you have no fuel going into the intake manifold... You have air and spark in the right sequence. I would now crank the engine with the fuel line exposed to test your fuel pump is delivering. How much pressure would have to be done with a pressure gauge. I don't think they cost much at an auto store. I've never experience all the injectors going at once only if the computer that tells them when to open individually is not working because it is not plugged in or not receiving any input from a sensor that tells it the system is OK. Or the computer is no good (rare). Rails are just pipes and hoses... easy enough to test if you get fuel running out of the return line (returns excess fuel to the tank). I suspect the fuel pump is not putting out enough pressure or a sensor is either not connected to the computer harness or a sensor is kaput. I've been out of the business long enough to not be up on the critical sensors. Turpentine is a fuel... put some in a glass when you test the pump output and see if it settles into water and fuel. LOLuck

You brought up an excellent point! Water in the fuel. We never asked how it got there just want to know how to get it out of there. When you check as stated and find some water, a temporary but helpful hint is to put in some drygas.

Does anyone know what the fuel pressure should be at the injector rail?

In the older tank systems, where there was a breather hole in the petrol cap and no charcoal filter, its very easy to get water in a tank.

Due to temperature and air pressure changes, the air is sucked in and blown out of the tank via the breather hole (this happens to a degree even on modern tanks too, but probably they need a longer time span and modern tanks are usually plastic..... !).

This "breathing "changes" the air out and can often bring air in with a higher humidity for example, later the tank outside cools, the humidity distills out on the sides of the tank above the fuel level and runs down into the fuel....

Over long periods, substantial amounts of water can collect in there.

It also rusts the sides of the unprotected (steel only) tank.

It also Oxidises the fuel in some way so that it may not be usable and smells like Turpentine.

The water sits at the bottom and is "FIRST" sucked into the fuel pump and along into the engine, along with the rust, if the fuel is not first replaced and the tank proper cleaned before trying to run the motor the first time after it has stood for a long time......