Chainsaw Boiling Oil

http://www.google.co.uk/search?q=chain+turns+blue+on+MS290+FARM+BOSS+STHIL+CHAINSAW&sourceid=ie7&rls=com.microsoft:en-gb:IE-SearchBox&ie=&oe=&rlz=1I7DKUK_en-GB&redir_esc=&ei=RwACTMP3GKG80gTgjJX3Ag

Thanks for all of your help.Now works like a charm.

The bar grove was blocked by a very small piece of what appears to be starofoam packaging material of some sort. Oil was, with bar off, dripping normally. With the bar and chain on no bar lubrication.Cleaned the bar as you suggested,ran the saw for ten minutes, loaded and unloaded, no blue chain or heat!

Do you think internally the saw as a result of the intense heat was damaged?

I am new here,what a great way to say hello.Again thanks for your diagnosis and cure.

How new is the saw? If you just bought it , why not return it and either exchange it or have the dealer correct the problem and probably replace the chain and bar.

h

The saw is hours old.Right out of the box it went wrong.But thanks to you guys all is well, or it appears so.

Have a safe holiday.

Thanks lynlynch for the complement. And a good answer for yours. Most likely the oil is pumped from the exhaust pulse. That could give the oil a boiling appearance and heat it up also. The way you check to see if it's oilier is working is the same as I do.

Also, be sure to test the chain brake after you have checked the oiling. Do this every time you use the saw.

SAFETY FIRST!

Worth repeating!

As to the bar overheating it's life span most likely has been shorten. The metal will wear faster even with the oilier working and the chain most likely will stretch and wear faster too. It would be in the long run good to replace both bar and chain after some use. When you notice the sides of the groove where the chain runs shows wear and/or the chain has used most of the bars slack adjuster it's time to replace.

There two types of saw chains on the market, one like came with the saw (a safety cut chain) one link in front of the cutting link there is a link with a hump that limits how big a bit the cutting link can take. I believe the design is to help with kick back by limiting the cut. Then there the regular chain w/out the hump. If you only use the saw a little the safety cut chain may be a good choice. Now if you are cutting a lot of wood either to use or sell then the regular chain will speed your work.

Always work safely and think before making each move and cut with a chain saw.

Charles

About every four sharpenings on my chain, (I do by hand) I Take a flat file and hit those "little Bumps" ever so slightly to keep a good cut on the wood. Safety chains are the best for novices, as the limiters will reduce kickback. I've used large and small chain saws for over 35 years and prefer the recommended safety chain over deep cutting chain. You never know who might pick up your saw and not be familiar with it.

The safety chain (green link) has a hump that keeps the chain from cutting while it's on the tip roller of the bar, thus prevent a major cause of kickback. IT HAS NO EFFECT ON CUTTING SPEED. Cutting speed is determined solely by the difference between the cutting edge and the leader , which directly precedes the cutting edge. You can be damn sure Stihl knows what they are doing. I've worked for a living cutting wood, and also as a trained Stihl mechanic, for six years, and a LOT of people have been hurt seriously by listening to bad advice. Chain saws are deadly. I've seen white thigh bone, before the blood started flowing, from kickback on professional chain. Stihl has excellent handbooks, full of careful advice. Read it, follow the safety instructions!

Thanks for the clarification.

Thanks ormondotvos, for the info on the oil pump drive. GA for ya!

All in all there several methods mfg's can use with there oilier. It's not always easy to keep up with everything they use.

Glad you joined up.

Charles

Boiling oil? how about boiling gasoline? Any chance that gas got put into the bar oil reservior in stead of oil?? That would account for the "blue chain" too.......

I'm inclined to give BONVI the benefit and suggest that he added the proper fluids to the proper tank.

BTW, BONVI welcome to CR4. This is a cool place. We sometimes get snippy and some of us (myself included) think our answers are always the best, but it's fun.

Where else can intelligent people masquerade as a cat, squirrel, alien, gremlin and other silly things while contributing well reasoned opinions on technical topics.

Be safe.

Same here, Welcome BONVI to CR4 also. I like your Avatar.

Glad to be helpful with your saw. Use care with your saw. One second of not thinking can cost you a life time of misery.

Years ago my dad was trying to cut up a small limb on the ground after cutting the tree down. the limb made a "V" were he was trying to cut. After several attempts with it kicking back, he reached down with one hand and at the same time with the saw! He did not loose anything but ground up his hand. The doctors had to treat it like a burn. He healed and learned a very good lesson.

You know what caused the overheating now.

With regard to the octane rating, your dealer is an idiot, as long as you use petrol of the correct octane or higher, you cannot cause any problems of overheating (at least on 4 stroke engines).

I suspect you may have a 2 stroke motor and I do believe that they do not suffer from "pinking" in quite the same way as 4 strokes do (plus they are usually too loud for anyone to hear pinking anyway....!)

Either way, having an octane rating higher than needed is probably just wasting a few cents of your money, nothing more nothing less.

Hello Andy Germany, GA. The only other thing. Try to avoid any gasoline that has ethanol of any percentage in it. It can cause problems with 2-cycle oil mix. If stored for any length of time it will degrade "fuel break down, collect water". Can cause problems with seals/gaskets and some metal parts in the fuel system of the saw. I believe most small engines manuals recommended NOT to use ethanol blended gas. Always read the manual.

Charles

Good point!!

Sadly, you cannot buy anything else here, all petrol has a percentage mixed in......but I don't possess a chainsaw anymore anyway, my neighbour does such work for me now.....

Sorry to hear that. In the states "at least east Tenn" there appears to be a movement by some independent and private owned franchised gas stations advertising 100% gas or No Ethanol added. People are beginning to realize the ethanol blends does affect over all mileage there getting. The ethanol is to help with reducing smog component in the exhaust by introducing more oxygen into fuel burn mix. Although there debate on how well the ethanol works in emissions reduction.