How to Support Gangable Junction Boxes in Residential Construction

That should work , il give it a try tomorrow and get back if it works

are there any other methods or manufactured brackets?

This is ok as long as you use round head screws. I would fail this if the screws were flat head as the sharp face of the screw could damage conductor insulation.

edit..

we use pipe to 1900 boxes.. irrelevant

I don't get your meaning...

Take a 10" long wall stud of the same depth as the rest of the wall studs and place it on the unsupported side, put screws in through top and bottom nailing tabs of the device box on the unsupported side into the short stud. Then have the drywall guys run screws into the stud from both the front and the back sheets of drywall, use 4 screws.

If this is an outside wall (as in only one sheet of drywall will be installed) make the stud long enough to be screwed into the top and bottom plates or to the closest cross members in the wall cavity.

kramarat has the best answer so far... both parts.

I would add: remember to install the switches, dimmers, outlets in the order that matches a faceplate that is available! It sucks to locate these where you think it is a good idea, drywall over, then discover your selected sequence is unavailable in the faceplate that matches your house.

Many areas will only make you add a brace block( 2X4 or 2X6 ) from the ajoining stud to the unsupported side of your gang box and anchor, nail or screw. With this method there is nothing to block access of your wires going in to the boxes.

Hope that you have a nice inspector I have known them to tell contractors "if you have to ask ,you should not be doing the work".

You have several options from the other posts to see which one he would recommend.

It is better to ask advice than forgiveness from building inspectors.

I had the same thing when I built my house in Ontario, a piece of 1x4 between the studs behind the boxes with the boxes screwed to it satisfied the inspector.

Cheers

Martin