Gas Pipe Installation

I suggest you have a look at this website for more information.

http://dpw.lacounty.gov/bsd/index.cfm?p=cert_specinsp

In oz, this sort of work can only be done by licensed plumbers certified in doing Gas (NG, LPG) installations.

There is way too much that can go wrong, as well as with the liability to your houshold insurance to do it yourself.

Cheers

The requirements vary depending upon which state, county, and town/city you live in. Some places it can be done by you others require a licensed plumber, etc. Go to your local municipal building dept. to find out what is required. That is the only way to find out how to do it right.

Good Luck, Old Salt

I recommend that you call a certified gas contractor.

It's safer and your house insurance will still be valid.

Vince

Look at the NFPA 54 standard

It will take black iron pipe and lots of fitting, pipe dope, soapy water knuckle skin by the yard and a vocabulary that will only be used again to work on your car. You describe a rather circuitous route for the pipe; I assume you live on a slab. You will need a half inch drill to get through the wall. If you have "soft" walls you can use a paddle bit about 5/8" for 1/2" pipe. If you have "hard" walls you will need a masonry bit and a hammer drill will make a world of difference. Remember to know what your drilling through, look for wires, water lines, etc. Two pipe wrenches and two adjustable wrenches to tighten pipes and fittings. You can rent a pipe threader if you need or by an inexpensive set for the job.(Harbor Freight is about $60 bucks 3/8" - 2", $30 for a smaller set)

Seriously IT is a job that is not that difficult. I have run gas lines and it is a matter of using hard pipe to you get as close as possible then you switch to a different material usually copper. I believe the national code is 24 or 30" deep. Electric is deepest then gas then then cable then your stuff in the yard. I tell you this so you have some idea where to expect to run into something when you dig in the yard; you start to worry about hitting something just under the grass. Call the utilities to locate stuff in the yard.

As to your main question, Of COURSE there are codes on this; contact the local county office for more info. I don't know of a municipality that prohibits an owner from doing his own work. ( but you live in CA and they do things a bit differently there) But you will need to prove to the inspector that you know what you're doing. Ask them questions before you start about the details. They will tell you how deep it needs to be and where you can run the lines in the house. This will show that you want to do it right and let you know the things that they look for. Get all the permits and such, also check with your insurance co about how they feel about you doing the job.

Some places use a leak down test over a long period of time. I always like to test with soapy water and about 25 psi. Just to check the pipes at several times working pressure. Only check the pipes, devices usually work at low pressures and will not handle high pressure. I give you this bit of advise; it doesn't matter who does the job, YOU check for leaks. You de one gonna get essploded if it leaks.

Just do it like your life depends on the job being done right. IT DOSE.

Dave P

While running gas lines is not rocket science, there are many rules and regulations that should be followed for health and safety. There are likely to be extra rules and regs for potential earthquake regions. I suspect that where you live only certified licensed people are legally allowed to install what you want and that your home owners insurance will be severely compromised if you do the work yourself.

I completely understand the desire to DIY. While you probably have the necessary skills to make simple black iron pipe runs through the basement, penetrating exterior(or foundation) walls and running underground lines in an earthquake region will need special attention. Having it done by licensed pros under proper permits is the safer option. As Dirty Harry once said "a man's got to know his limitations". Good luck and best wishes on your project!

As long as you're tapping into the gas line in the garage, could you run it in the attic to the kitchen? If so, I'd use threaded iron pipe, with all the standard procedures (dope, tightness, etc.).

If you have to go underground, I'd use an anodeless riser (steel to PE), to enter the soil, & another to exit it. Without knowing your load in cfh, or your length of pipe required, I'd guess 1" CTS SDR 11 HDPE tubing for UG. Of course, the riser PE pipe stub should be the same size. Check with your local building department, but I'd be surprised if they require a depth greater than 12".

Before tapping into the source line, completely build your new pipe system, but don't backfill it yet, if its UG. Then cap and test the line, with say 25 psig as someone suggested, and a pressure gage, for 1 hour (typical code requirement is 10 minutes). Leak test all joints with soapy water. If A-OK, cut and tap into the source line, and leak test that connection. I'm assuming your residential pressure downstream of the meter is standard 7"wc.

Whichever way you decide to go, make an "as-built" sketch, showing the materials, sizes, and distances; to store with your house documents.

I need to upgrade my trunk line from 3/4" to 1". i want to assemble it all next to the existing line, test it, and then tap into the existing branching in the house, so the house will be operational during this whole time but HOW? i don't want to use a union where i tap in. a short section of pipe with reversed threads? i really have no idea how to do this simple thing. have everything else figured out. Help! thanks, michael

Although it may not be rocket science as some state, it must be done correctly and to the local codes. Steel pipe, commonly called black pipe, is the most common material for interior installations but it must be wrapped with a protective primer and tape completely if it is to be used underground. The easiest material to use is one of the newer products on the market, gas approved plastic pipe with the appropriate fittings. It is what suppliers now use to go from the street main to the house. It doesn't require anything other than buried at the proper depth and a "notification" plastic tape buried above it within the ground. Go to a good local plumbing supply house and ask them for information on this material.

To bury steel pipe in the situation you describe would be more expensive, require more labor, require more digging, etc. Find out the facts from the local building dept. and a good plumbing supply house.

Good Luck, Old Salt