ARC Welder

My guess is the power setting indicator. Numbers on the left are AMPS. Don't recognize the units on the right.

I'm thinking that the numbers on the right somehow refer to the size of welding rod that corresponds to the amperage on the left. Millimeters maybe.

http://www.ehow.com/video_4420305_setting-amperage-arc-welding-equipment.html

After watching the video, the 25 on the upper right of your gauge would correspond to 1/8" rod in millimeters. The other number (3) to the left of the 25 may refer to wire size for wire feed welding.

Hi, Thanks for the video. As far as I am aware this is only designed to be used with welding rods - Not wire feed welding which is MIG and TIG welders? Cheers,

For some of these older units mig welding could be done also with same unit, but an add on box would have to be purchased separately for wire feed.

They could clear this up. I think that being able to dial down to low amps would enable use with wire.

I hope I'm right.........I don't want to be thumped by lynch two days in a row.

You're dangling by a thread.

I can convert my MIG wire feed to use flux cored wire. I don't think I can convert my stick welder into a wire feed. Certainly not a gas shielded rig without lots of work.

THUMP!

The OP said we could take a shot at it, (wild guess), those can't be thumped....can they? Hey, I was able to find the manufacturer. Now I want to know why there seems to be two sets of numbers on the right.

I wonder whether it could be something to do with amps also - I may be speaking a load of bull, but what about if it is the input ampage, so you don't overload your fuse box? I guess the welder is late 60s or 70s?

I think I've got it! I was wrong on the wire feed, but the numbers on the right appear to be rod diameter that corresponds with amperage on the left, in millimeters. I should have shut up after post #2, my guess was good.

This is very similar: See photo on right. Description in write up.

http://www.onlinetoolreviews.com/reviews/gmccen.htm

They still sell this design of arc welder in Australia for DIY home user. I bought a ryobi brand only a couple of years ago.

Europeans use comma instead of period for decimal point. Could be 3.25mm, 2.5mm etc. Would that make sense?

Yes, the comma and the smaller numbers to the right of the decimal point had me confused.

Am I correct in assuming that the red bar (which appears to be at 85AMPS now)moves when you turn the knob?

what the track along the top is for - It is controlled by the big dial on the front.

Helloooo.........If it didn't move, how could it be controlled?

You're gonna make this real easy aren't you?

Numbers on the right are corresponding wire and rod numbers, in millimeters.

Hi, Yes, the dial on the front does move the red bar (very stiffly)

"move the red bar (very stiffly)" because you are pulling, or pushing the contacts inside the transformer to add or subtract amperage.

I have a similar welder that I've had for many years. the posts are correct, The indicator shows the welding amps. The weld current in this type of welder is controlled by a movable magnetic shunt within the welding transformer and the small red indicator stripe is connected mechanically to the shunt.

Doesn't seem to be too much doubt about what the welder feature is to me, and most answers are pretty much on the mark - I have a welder like this but with a different and more obvious layout - the end of the moving rod that adjusts the current output is external to the welder body - and it is plunged in and out to change the current.

The scale/s shown will be current in amperes and the indicative rod diameter to use. The moving red indicator will match the movement of the inner core, wound in and out by the control on the front. Different designs are possible but basically the magnetic coupling efficiency between two coils is changed by the physical location of the two coils on/over an iron core, and this changes the output.

All this is related to the phenomena you would know in transformer design (which is what an AC welder is) where the ratio of the output voltage to input voltage is in the same ratio as the turns of winding on the iron core that links the two coils.

My guess is that in this case it will be an iron core or rod that is plunged more or less into the core two toroidal coils, rather than changing the actual number of turns in the coil - and of course as voltage goes up, so does the current

If as you say the indication bar is stiff in moving it sounds like the whole unit could do with a clean out. I've worked on dozens of Murex moving core units, it's amazing the amount of crap you find in them.* Welding is usually followed by grinding, the dust finds a nice home in the sliding core of the welder.

Don't break the string when you strip the unit.

* The mouldy part eaten Mars bar had me stumped ! ! ! !

that is the amps. if you turn clockwise it should move that indicator one direction which is higher, counter clockwise is lower.

They Display the Approximate Voltage & Amperage, setting. Hotter for Thicker Material, bigger Rod.

THE DIAL IS A REASTATE, Control knob.

Do you mean rheostat - which it wouldn't be either.

Don't blame me for the misspelled word! It passed Spell Check... ( & I'm still Right!)

I kind of object to referring to the scale as rod diameter because I think that will hinder learning to make good welds. It is a place to start, but I urge examining the weld "puddle".

Different metals, thicknesses, and shapes all weld differently. Round stock is hard to weld anything to and do a good weld, down-hand vertical is easy to make a nice looking weld, and filling two pieces of symmetrically grooved iron can be deceivingly "easy" - and the same gage metal in all of these instances will take different amperage settings.

Draw a short bead and see how, or if, it strikes. If you can keep the arc going look at the puddle just behind the rod. Look at the little circle of quickly cooling molten metal - that's the secret. Manipulate the rod so it melts portions of both sections of the objects you are trying to glue together evenly. After a few seconds you can get an idea of which is melting faster - then adjust your rod motion and, finally, the heat of the arc with the big dial to make a good weld. The idea is melt both metals evenly so that the molten metal flow into one puddle. Don't be afraid to pull the rod over to the side when it looks like your going to burn through - better to have to grind off a little than fill a big hole.

Truly, it would be best if everyone could have the opportunity to develop a little proficiency using oxy-acetylene torches to join two pieces of metal before they jump into electric arc welding. Unfortunately arc welders are ubiquitous, and the oxy-acetylene rigs always seem to come only with the cutting torch on them - unless they are used for brazing or soldering which is different.

I built an exhaust system with a torch and coat hangers as filler metal once. You're right. Practice, practice practice!

Bummer weather up there. The stadium roof collapsed?

It's a beautiful thing - when it works. Two pieces of metal made one. Like marriage, only better!

Lot's of things coming down here in Minneapolis, except property taxes.

The politics of stadiums is not unlike the politics of bridges.

I hope it is harder playing to the County Commissioners than it was to MNDOT.

Now tell us about Poliaty...

Arc welder with amps gauge on the left and rod thickness on the right. You adjust by loosening the dial and pushing or pulling the dial in or out (depending on whether you want to increase or decrease settings). Your arc welder is a 125 amp welder suitable for using up to 3.25mm welding rods.