I have been using a relatively modern wood Pellets burning stove for nearly 6 years now and I am really pleased with the use, safety and maintenance of my stove which was made and supplied by the Italian company called Kalor.
Why pellets? Carbon neutral (at least once the stove is made and bought!), clean burning, produces very little ash and only needs a new heating element about once every 2 years or so.....while starting mine needs about 350watts of power, but when running only about 50 watts....
Although I had read up on the web for several weeks before deciding which stove to buy (on ebay Germany), it has only become recently apparent to me just how lucky I was with my choice after seeing what friends and neighbours have bought and the problems they have experienced.
This prompted me to start a blog on choosing a pellets burner for the kitchen or lounge, one without any water (central) heating possibility, though many of the points I will bring up will apply to them as well......
If I had just bought my house, or was doing a big renovation (all behind me!) I would buy one of those Pellets burners that sits in the lounge, that looks good, has a glass door to allow the flames to be seen AND it tops up the heat in the water circuit for the central heating. Expensive but Very useful.
I personally might consider buying one of the fully automatic central heating pellets burners for the cellar and to have an air heater burner in the lounge as well, but probably I would only take a wood burner for the lounge as there is a lot of free wood around here......
If installed properly, a pellets silo can be built into the cellar and the whole system runs automatically, adding pellets, removing ash etc etc..
Even the pellets can be delivered here in what looks like an oil bowser! They are blown along a pipe to fill your silo and all the excess air and dust is removed and filtered, so its a very clean delivery.
I buy my pellets and get them delivered by lorry, mainly in 1000 Kg deliveries, I usually buy 2 tons at a time (sometimes more if very cheap). Either they come on a pallet in 1 metric Ton "Big Bags", which is a huge bag that holds one ton. Or again on a pallet, but in individual 15Kg Plastic bags..
Prices are VERY variable due to season, wood type, company etc etc.....Always buy well in advance of winter and shop around before deciding. Truck delivery is expensive.
I bought 4 Big Bags (4 Tons from ebay) early last year very cheaply and even with hiring a lorry and driving over 250Km there and back, I got the complete price down to just over €150 a ton, about half of what I normally pay....so keep your eyes open for good deals.There are I believe some companies in the US selling pellet makers, so for a big house with a lot of standing timber on its land, you may need to check out the costs of producing (selling?) your own pellets as well......
Do's & Don'ts
1a) Do not buy any pellets burner with a horizontal screw feed mechanism, if the motor stops turning, they have been known to burn back into and set fire to the silo, filling the house with fumes from partly burnt pellets as well as possibly setting fire to the house itself. Some US stoves and burners are made like that still, it needs to be banned or very many safety mechanisms built in to detect this and do an emergency shut down....
1b) A good stove "drops" the pellets into the grate only, so that the path of burnable material is broken, no "burn back" is possible if something breaks or the power is lost.
2) Do not buy for Good (outside) looks, soapstone and marble look nice and on a wood burning stove serve to even out the heat energy. On a Pellets stove they actually make the stove far more expensive and less effecting in getting rid of the heat produced. I have not seen one of them that can keep up with mine on heat produced (mine is all welded steel), .
They also all appear to use more pellets in relationship to the heating pellets.....all only observed functions, no scientific testing. But mine on minimum uses less pellets than ALL those of my friends and you cannot hold your hand in front of the outlet for the hot air, its simply too hot. My youngest daughter has long blonde hair and she sits a meter or so in front of it and just brushes her wet hair, within 10 minutes or so its all dry!!!
3) A good stove works on one simply principle, there is NO forced air INTO the stove, the whole burning procedure is run by an exhaust fan that pulls the smoke OUT OF THE STOVE!This means that if ever a leak develops, only air is leaked INTO the stove, not smoke or possibly harmful gases out into the house. Make sure that yours works in this manner BEFORE BUYING. There is another fan that takes air from the room and blows it over the hot surfaces of the stove, cooling them down, before delivering this hot air back into the room.
4) A good stove can also be supplied with outside air for burning via a large diameter tube, feeding the stove, though its not a 100% requirement, but it does stop you burning your warm air!!!
5) A good stove needs to be completely programmable for YOU. As there are many factors of differences in pellet quality, heat achieved etc etc.. I can program the amount of pellets delivered, the amount of "suck" made by the exhaust gas fan and the speed of the warm air fan. The stove displays also the heat still in the exhausted gases, that you use as a guide to help you get your pellets burnt as efficiently as possible, eg. a low temperature of extracted smoke as possible. This information was NOT originally supplied (I did not know it existed!!) and I had to contact the factory and got it sent as a PDF file. If this information is not made available, DON'T BUY!!!
6) All stoves need maintenance and once the hours are up, they post a "Service Required" notice on the display. If you want to do the servicing yourself, you need to be given a) the servicing infos up front and also the way to turn off the "Service Required" display. If this information is not freely given, DON'T BUY!!!
7) Make sure you can switch the display and information to the language of your choice, some cannot do this, if that is the case, DON'T BUY!!!
8) Some stoves have a separate remote control, mine has, but I hardly ever needed to use it, but if I every become handicapped, then it might be a good idea.. Don't "NOT BUY" just because a remote control is not available, just beat the price down some more!!!
9) When a service is needed, you may need special tools to open certain parts for cleaning with a long brush and a vacuum cleaner, mine needs certain Allen keys and Torx keys. Make sure that you have all the right tools and a good workshop vacuum cleaner....
10) Some room stoves cycle off if the temperature in the room exceeds an amount that you set up, the shutting down and restarting takes anything up to 30 minutes on some stoves. I personally do not like this (mine doesn't do that, it just goes into a "minimum heat" setting. My personal take is to open the door to the hallway and let the heat flood out and keep the rest of the house warm as well. Your choice. I would set the room sensor to say 30°C and leave the door open so that the stove only shuts down if the timer function tells it to.
11) My stove has two timers (on and OFF) per day. I use one timer for the weekdays only and one for the week ends only, but I leave it running 24x7 in winter. How many on and off periods you may need, only you know, make sure that your stove can do what you want, when you want. Mine is not that flexible but as I am home most days, thats not a problem for us. For a working family that may not be enough flexibility!! Don't buy if the timer is not flexible enough for you....
12) I would say that wood burning stoves generally make more mess than a Pellets burner, but the pellets do sometimes make a little wood dust when filling up, make sure that your wife is aware of this!! But they are generally far, far cleaner than wood or coal burners....
Thats about all I can think of now, any questions, please just ask.
"Almost" Good Answers: