5kva Ellies Generator

I'm thinking you are saying AFTER you ran the electric drill (that had the bad cap and bearing) with your generator it stopped making voltage.

Whatever, your Voltage Regulator or Exciter on the generator is bad.

If it's an electronic AVR it must be replaced, but check the wires first.

If it's a Manual Voltage Regulator it needs to be checked and repaired depending on what kind it is.

There might be two parts, the AVR/MVR that makes the DC Voltage and the Exciter that injects it into the spinning rotor. The Exciter should have coils and 2, 4 or 6 diodes and some MOV's spinning inside the generator that can be checked. Be sure to check the Exciter Diodes disconected so you won't read an open diode through one of the good diodes.

GA

I'm surprised no one else gave you one first!!

Capacitor and bearing in DRILL?? It reads as if the excitation of the generator rotor has failed, just residual magnetism left. 1. The generator voltage regulator feeds direct current to a stationary (exciter) field coil. 2. This coil is the field for an alternator and diodes on the rotor that deliver direct current to the main field. 3. If energising this field coil brings your off-load voltage back up, then the machine itself is OK - the voltage regulator (AVR) may be kaput or there might just be a fuse in it... 4. Alas suggesting what voltage to apply to DC field is not easy, without idea of its voltage. I suggest :-

1. Try to trace the exciter field circuit to the winding and getting an idea of the actual winding wire size. Get an idea of its diameter. A diameter of 0.2 mm should survive 0.2 Amps, twice that 0.8 amps.
2. Measure the field resistance in ohms (disconnect AVR, recording which wire goes where) .
3. Try to decide the field polarity applied by the voltage regulator. There may be a diode across the field coil on the AVR board. It just helps not to apply a current which opposes the residual magnetism and reduces alternator output voltage!
4. Select a trial battery (dry cells will do). Divide voltage by ohms to give current. If it is less than value from 1. then you are safe to make a trial. For example, 10 ohms with 6V battery would be 0.6 amp.
5. Start generator, apply battery to field for long enough to see what it does to alternator output voltage.
6. If generator voltage increases you are on - track (if it falls, try swapping battery polarity). Estimate battery voltage to give alternator normal voltage and increase battery voltage to that level, if possible.
7. Try a small load, like an inspection lamp.

If the above turns out OK, the basic generator is OK - it's just the AVR dead.

Both solutions work for a brushless generator with a wounded rotor and an excitator on the same shaft.

But are you sure that the OP is not speaking about an asynchronous induction alternator?

The one with a cage rotor and capacitors to generate reactive energy?