My 2000 Volvo S40 Key With a Chip is Broken

I would say go to the dealer with the damaged key and the VIN # of the car.

They should be able to program one for you.

I have and the estimate which is $312.00 for a new Key from the 'nice' dealer near me!

Thank you for caring to reply.

Do a search on "auto remotes" or "auto transponders". There are places that sell the remotes for less than the dealer.

You will need to get it programmed. This can be done by the dealer, but some locksmiths can do it. Some of the shops that install car radios and remote starting systems can also do it. It's worth a search in your area to check them out, they are probably lower cost than the dealer.

Thank you for the out of the box thinking.

The 2 sites that I found offer most keys but not Volvo keys.

Thank you.

Hello. If the "chip" is of the same type they used on GM VAT systems, you may be able to substitute the resistance as I have done. If you have a digital ohmmeter, measure the resistance across the terminals on the old key. If you get a stable reading, say 1250 ohms, purchase a resistor of same value and locate/splice into the leads under the steering column.

This solution worked well on a 500 dollar bargain car for me. Check into "key less ignition" alarms for your year model. The alarm/remote start installers will have this information.

G-luck!

VATS key system is exclusive to GM, and was discontinued in 1996 (?). The transponder key here is most likely a typical type.

The lament from our Original Poster is not uncommon. We as consumers demand security be in place to protect our expensive automobile from thieves, but when it is time to maintain the authentication system that does so (in this case, replace some ten year old keys), the outcry is deafening.

The key itself is expensive, the equipment to duplicate transponder keys is obscenely priced, and it is a time consuming task to make the key properly. If these were not the case, the security feature would be easy to defeat. Likewise, it is difficult and expensive to alter the car for the same reason: IT IS DESIGNED THAT WAY.

I am not very familiar with the Mitsubishi transponder. I assume the S40 uses Mitsubishi technology, as it is based on the Carisma. What does your manual say?

Thank you for your reply.

I am heavily involved with the Toyota Supply Chain and the supply chain for some expensive medical components. I understand the cost structures. My lament is that the key design should be able to last as long as the car in general, it is not a typically seen as a perishable wear item.

The mark-up on this stuff is 400-500 fold.

The technology is a fraction of the difficulty level of producing an I-Phone for instance or even ear buds and I-Phones can be manufactured for less than $245. The economy of scale is a factor with the I-Phone.

But anyway you slice it $300 + is the estimate I got from a dealer yesterday and that is plain "robbery" and inflated billing from cherry picking middlemen.

The key probably costs $10 max. The programming is a five minute job. The rest is opportunism.

Do not try to justify it as a justifiable cost of security. I had a very secure 735i BMW for 12 years and the key did not break. Same for my 17 year old Chevy Suburban --Original keys and they turn the ignition on every time.

This is definitely worth trying, although the next post says that they are based on Mitsubishi technology.

I should do my due diligence and find out how it works and take it from there--- using the old gas guzzler in the meantime!

Thank you for the insight.

AS A LOCKSMITH I FEEL FOR YOU, THE COST YOU ARE REFERRING TO IS NOT A MARKUP FROM US AS AN INDUSTRY. IT IS FROM THE SUPPLY CHAIN AS YOU SUSPECT THE CURRENT INDUSTRY HAS BEEN PURCHASED UP BY THREE MAJOR CORPORATIONS.SUCH AS KABA ILCO,STANLEY WORKS AND INGERSOL RAND. THEY ARE CURRENTLY DOING MORE DAMAGE TO OUR INDUSTRY THEN YOU COULD EXPECT. SINCE THEY THE ONLY SOURCE FOR MOST OF OUR PRODUCTS WE HAVE TO WORK WITH. THERE IS LITTLE CHANCE THE CONSUMER WILL SEE ANY BREAK FOR THE NEAR FUTURE.AS YOU SUSPECT YOUR ONLY CHOICES ARE THE DEALER OR A VERY GOOD LOCKSMITH. LESS THEN 10% OF ALL LOCKSMITH'S REALLY WORK ON HIGH SECURITY CARS. A LOT OF THEM THINK THEY CAN BYPASS THE SECURITY SYSTEM, YOU DO THAT AND THE CAR IS STOLEN, YOUR INSURANCE WILL PROBABLY NOT BE WORTH THE PAPER IT IS PRINTED ON. TAKE WHAT I SAY WITH A GRAIN OF SALT AND TRY ALL AVENUE'S AVAILABLE TO YOU.I HOPE THE BEST IN YOU ENDEVER TO GET THAT SPECIAL NICKEL SILVER KEY BLANK, CUT ON A $25,000 KEY MACHINE THAT CAN ONLY CUT 200 TO 350 KEYS WITHOUT A NEW CUTTER COSTING NEAR $600.00 A POP.I FEEL FOR YOU. THAT IS ALSO WHY I DO NOT CUT THESE KEYS AFTER A FEW MISCUT KEYS COSTING ANYWHERE FROM $8.50-$197.00 EACH BEFORE WE HAVE TO SPEND $25.00FOR EACH ATTEMPT TO PROGRAM THESE KEYS SOMETIME'S TAKING TWO OR THREE ATTEMPTS TO GET THEM TO TAKE THE PROGRAM. THE FAILURE RATE IS VERY HIGH ON THESE CARS. JUST MY TWO CENTS.

STOP SHOUTING!!!

Also learn how to make sentences and paragraphs.

The way you write, many will simply not even bother to read it.

This was a friendly "Heads-Up" only.......take heed.

Thank you for the insight , I do appreciate your candid reply and I feel awful for giving doorman a snotty retort.

Ah, 2tinker, don't sweat it. You are not the first guy I have ruffled!

My experience has been similar to LOCKDUKE in #10. While I deal mostly electronic access control and security issues for buildings and sites, I have some experience with autos as well. I agree it seems a ripoff, but there are expenses for a lockshop or dealer involved with duplication of transponder keys that are intangible, but they are there nonetheless.

I am fond of older cars and pickups for a number of reasons; this issue is one reason I would prefer to keep and maintain a vehicle for 400,000 rather than buy a newfangled collection of unrepairable (by me, anyway) eventual problems.

Duke,

Please, it is hard to read the shouting.

I agree with some of your contention, but you exagerate just a tad on others:

1. A good CNC machine for producing accurate keys, both the end mill cut, and traditional is about 6-12K, depending on the vendor of choice. If you spent 25K, it was not necessary; but an extravagance.

2. The cutters last a very long time, if you buy high quality carbide ones engineered for this purpose, and not generic end mills. 75.00 each. In a CNC machine, they will run for YEARS without snapping or dulling.

3. If programming is taking 2-3 attempts, it is because the documentation of beta software is often chock full of errors, and it takes a while for the manuals and charts to be corrected. You are using a Pay-Per-Use programmer, which I agree can be frustrating on new software that has yet to be fully hashed out.

4. Most locksmiths who do auto work are not attempting to bypass the factory systems. I agree this absolutely should not be done. You may be seeing this done in your market, as there may be a rogue in the area. I am not hearing of this as a national problem.

What the public often does not realize, is the security the immobilizer offers. Many compare the price of a key from a 1980 GMC to a 2005 Toyota... well, that is a poor argument, as 85% of all new vehicles to hit the pavement, have one form of an antitheft system or other, most transponder based.

Principally, it is the European car makers who have seen fit to use this insurance requirement for security to clobber the consumer, using it as a profit center.

GM, Ford and Honda have suppressed the cost of the immobilizer keys, probably having analyzed the response the public has taken to the high cost of Mercedes, Volvo and BMW keys. This can skew the satisfaction of a new car buyer, if they should lose a key.

For the OP of this thread, It is assumed there was no second or third key. This was very bad planning. There is aftermarket capability for replacing these keys, but not a price competitive one for Volvo. Call multiple dealers, one may see callers for pricing as an opportunity to garner a new service client and negotiate a more reasonable deal on 3 keys

When car shopping, first ask your friendly locksmith which cars to avoid !

:}

Sorry Gentlemen that particular night that I responded to that post I had broken my glasses. Lucky I had my safety glasses on as the piece of equipment that decided to throw unessential parts that it decided it didn't need any more right in my face. Could have lost my sight, but thanks to safety glasses for protecting my sight I live to see another day. So for a few days I had to use caps to read and post, sorry about shouting to you but for some one who has limited vision without glasses it is the only way to communicate and read. So again sorry for any inconvenience to you for my shouting. In the future you might ask why someone is using all caps before give them a bunch of grief but you have a very nice day. Duke P.S. I don't do very bad for a dislexic that went undiagnosed for many years after high school. Duke.

LOCKDUKE, don't sweat it too much. Sometimes it is easy to be critical of others and their practices. Many of our ESL (English as second language) members post their first few comments in all caps, it is simply the way they have been taught. A few times being chided for it, and all is well. We, the members of CR4. like our little kingdom to be just so. If this is the worst scolding you ever get at CR4 you will have done pretty well!

I think you and I see this particular key issue pretty much the same way. It is nice to have another key guy in attendance who can sprinkle some sanity onto the sometimes salty discussions we have about locks and keys.

Try your local locksmith. My neighbor is a locksmith that does chip keys for a lot less than the dealers. Typically starting a $150. It's worth a try.

This sounds as though you only have one key for the car, which is really sad as if you had two keys, you could have checked whether the key transponder was not working, or it really was the key.

It could happen that even buying a new key will not fix the problems.

If you bought the car and accepted only one key, you should have either not bought the car or deducted the cost of a key from the price......I certainly would not accept only one key.....cars are sold with at least two keys, but sadly sometimes only one has a remote.....

Surely you can get a key cut, then drill a hole in the plastic and place the old transponder in the hole, seal with tape of similar.......it must be very unusual that the transponder itself is broken....it looks like a small piece of glass with something (some minature electronics) in it....It does not use the battery on good cars, BMW being a "bad" car in that respect.......there are others....

I am of the opinion that Volvo does not need the battery for the transponder, but I could easily be wrong when I think about it. Have you tried a new battery in the (wrecked) key? Maybe the contact(s) is bad?

For that price I would try and make a new fob with battery, if required. After you have bought a new key complete to drive around with. You do need two.....

I hope this helps..........

Andy from Germany may have something here. I used to have a FIAT with a transponder key. I got two keys plus a master which was kept safe for making duplicates.

Why not try contacting the person you bought the car from and see if he had a spare. If you are good at talking, you might pesuade him to let you know who he bought it from if he doesn't have it himself. I live in UK and most people here would not be bothered by helping someone in a fix. I have not been to Indiana, but have been to Ohio a few times and the people there were always very helpful. Might be worth a try.

You can get replacement keys on-line but I don't have the site info to hand. I'll have to post again when I get home.

Is your car insurance due soon? You can get cover for lost keys, I think mine added £15 to the policy with a £50 excess but I also managed to negotiate free extra cover which refunds all excess payments. This covers replaces locks or keys in case you manage to 'lose' the one you have.

Try these. The first link has keys for Volvos too....good luck.

http://www.keysfast.info/

http://www.google.ca/search?sourceid=navclient&gfns=1&ie=UTF-8&rlz=1T4GGLL_enCA375CA413&q=replacement+transponder+keys

Could it simply be the starter motor that has failed? Have you pulled it and bench tested it? or could it be a bad starter relay / Solenoid?

"I have manipulated what is left of the key to be able to turn all the initial ignition system on but there is no peep from the starter motor."

It sounds like its time to dip the key in a can of plastic mold (same thing you can use for tool grips) and replace the starter.

Does the car have a remote start capability? When I looked into adding remote start to one of my cars, they wanted an extra key to provide the authentication, and it was housed in the remote starter box itself.

I know nothing about Volvos, and if the car does not have remote start, this is all moot. But if it does, find the remote starter box and see if there's a good key in it!

Rufus

Huh?

Did you give them one? Do they sell duplicate transponder keys? Why would a bypass module not be used for this? Storing an extra key inside the vehicle?

Actually, maybe it was for the Volvo I owned many years ago! That doesn't mean I know anything about Volvos, so I guess that prior statement stands.

Our Windstar had remote start, so my wife wanted remote start in her Volvo. We bought one (it may not have been through Volvo) and the way it worked, was we needed a key to go into the starter box. At the time we thought we had money, held our noses, and bought the extra key.

The starter never worked reliably so we ended up removing it.

I still think its a bad relay or starter motor.

so poopoey.

Hello all that took the time to reply,

I thank your collective minds. Stedou73ish has a good point. I really need the time to pull the starter motor and do my due diligence on this problem.

There is no battery in the key, I noted a small rectangle of material enveloped in the broken plastic. It is quite possibly a small glass transponder.

Time 2Tinker and live up to the name I chose, but time evades me as with most working stiffs. The 'Old Chevy' has been a godsend in this situation-- an excuse to wait for the weekend to get dirty under the hood.

There was a time I didn't know what a Chevy was, and thought the levy was a local pub that Don McClean hung out in. Man! I have lived here too long. It is cool to see earnest replies from my childhood island neighbor. Now that I have stayed across 'the pond' , I supposed I must 'man-up, peg my nostrils and hand over the only thing that talks in this area!

If you had a second key (there is really no way round getting a 2nd key), you could be more certain of whether or not there is a problem with either the starter or the key itself,(that little glass thingy) or the transponder that "reads" the glass (thingy!) chip in the key......

So bite the bullet and get a 2nd key anyway. If ever you lock yourself out of the car, or simply misplace a key, you will be happy you did.....though leaving it so late means that you now need to pay for a house call type locksmith which will cost more.

(Do tape the call as evidence, in case its one of THOSE companies....and get the price completely fixed before giving your name and address, there are a lot of "fly by night" companies that will make it worth buying a new car to get a key!! (almost a Joke!!) I am sure that you have seen the programs showing just how low some companies can go.....)

A good tip for any country where these companies are is to look at the telephone book, yellow pages, and see which companies have names that appear in each and every town's book. These are the ones to avoid. Looking at the telephone number will most often not help as many have a different number and address (its a lie!) in each ans every town.

Sometimes if its an 800 number you MIGHT get a tip, but often only the name stays...... These are the ones NOT to pick. You don't want to get into a legal battle for an over priced call......

Pick one that you know really exists, it will still be cheaper in the long run.....even if it sounds more expensive to begin with......

Remember the old German saying:-

"He saves money, no matter what it costs!"

After I first retired, I thought about doing something completely different from technology, computers, design etc etc.. and worked for one of these fly by night companies, for about 6 months, totally morally reprehensible, which is why I stopped, the remuneration was poor as well but as I got a great seperation pay, that was not a problem. I had real fun, learnt a lot, I got hold of a lot of naughty tools, some of which I made myself, to allow me to break into most houses both quickly and usually very quietly......I have helped neighbours get back in their houses many times since then......

Have you considered buying a lock and two keys from a crashed volvo of the same model? Check beforehand that the needed electronics are inside the lock where they are usually.....I am told.....

The problem with just buying a lock and keys is the programing, most if not nearly 80 % of the locksmiths I know don't have the equipment to program that key, or even clone the key to make it work, you asked for security / anti-theft and you get that on the high end cars. And that costs money, most of the guys in our field that are auto locksmiths won't even work on Volvo for the simple reason they cant afford to purchase the programing equipment for a car they might see once every 3-4 years. Who wants to pay for a programer that will never pay for itself.

Check carefully, but it is usual that the key(s) with the crashed Volvo, will fit the lock mechanically and electronically as they were together before.

The electronics to "read" the chip will also be part of that same lock. There will be no need to do any other work than a mechanical replacement pf the lock, just replace wires in the same manner as they get removed, or even take pictures for safety....

The problem is not as bad as yo feel it is, only thing is that you should make sure that you get two keys........at least....get a guarantee allowing return from the breakers yard.....if it all goes tits up!!!

You are mistaken, the ignition is programed to the ECM of this vehicle not unto itself. There is a programing procedure, and just replacing the switch will not get you going.You will have to go to the dealer to program. I just love the so called (know it all's) trying to tell other people to go spend money that probably can't afford to spend in the first place,they simply have no Idea what they are speaking about. This Volvo does have the security system in place and (WILL) have to be programed. It uses a (VADIS) security system and upon looking it up it is a (DEALER ONLY SYSTEM) the key tumbler part is not the part containing the programing. I am tired of beating this dead horse (ENOUGH)said.

Usually the communication for similar units is:- "yes you can start and run, I have checked the code is valid" or "no you cannot, no valid key code"....I would be most surprised if the actual key info needs to be analysed, no matter what the "experts" say....

The problem is that even Volvo mechanics are not given the fine details as this would entail a security risk, so no matter what they say, it will still be incomplete infos....

But assume they are correct for a moment, what would it cost once the replacement has been made to get them to set it up to work? Would it be cheaper or not than having a new key(s) made and set up?

"But my chevy with the VATS key was easy to bypass, and the Chevy dealer also sells Volvo, so it must be the same kind of system "

It is frustrating when the whole kitchen sink gets thrown in, just for the 15 milliseconds of self engrandisement of having ones' post appear!

I believe some new Volvo capabilities are forthcoming, but likely of a similar ( but unique from ) system to clone as Bianchi and others recently launched for BMW keyless start prox systems

Do I know you from ClearStar or KeyPro ?

Even if the locking bolt housing that the ignition lock resides within does not need to be electronically matched to the ECU, slapping in a lock from another vehicle may induce a FAR MORE EXPENSIVE failure later on.

When folks lose the keys to a car, we generally use either the VIN or other lock(s) on the vehicle to produce a replacement.

Crash vehicle lock likely would come with one half-worn out key.... that plus the labor to replace, then programming at dealership ( if required for this model to match components electronically ) will be a negligable savings, if any....

Oh, now you will have ONE worn key. Now you need a spare.

There ARE methods for dealing with VOLVO, but at this time, cost prohibitive. We have coverage for about 85% of the newer cars on the road, as far as chips, programming and SEPARATE remotes, for those tired of the remote in the head of the key that fails, or the ones that corrode or the battery terminals fall off the circuit board...etc.

Beware of mail order... that is where a lot of recalled, discontinued or early product that has been since improved gets dumped... and where NEW means "NEW BATTERY" or "NEW CASE" but is used parts.

Also, the problem could be the control module that unlocks the ignition by solenoid, thus ALLOWING the key to turn. Mercedes works this way... key can not turn UNTIL the chip is recognized, THEN the lock bolt housing releases.... you can throw locks and keys at THIS failure till the cows come home, you will not resolve it.

Throwing parts at the problem, without a diagnosis is cool, if you have time and money to gamble on a diy project. Many of us like projects and to figure things out. Other times we need things done right, right away, and correct first time.

One thing you might do, that should not cost you, is take the key to a locksmith that has a ZEDBULL or AD900, and check if the immo chip is good. The datastream should be readable.

Finally another locksmith to back me up. this vehicle has a Va-dis security system currently only dealer serviceable in all the bulletin's that I have found. but I am not all knowing. but I am obviously out of compliance or my mind I'am still not sure which.Duke

Duke,

IS Va-dis a dealer installed kit ? I never heard of it.

Check your Autotell manual and some of the key catalogs this one is listed as dealer only.The Vadis or Va-dis not sure of spelling but it is supposedly Factory for this vintage vehicle spell check keeps fixing my posts so I am not sure of the spelling. I asked a friend to check to be sure of what I posted before I posted it, as I am mostly industrial and commercial locksmith these days. I don't do auto work anymore other than openings. I just can't justify spending the capitol to start doing auto work again. I was just talking with a friend that does do auto work on the high-end of the market like Lexus and Benz as well as the Ferrari's I just don't feel like relearning all of it again.Duke

When Autotel or the A.D. or Hydes manual sez "Dealer Only", that is merely a euphamism for " My method does not handle this". Barring Volvo Approved methods, there is always the Eeprom method. Read the bin file, find the key data, write the chips or rewrite the file, reassemble and off the car goes. It is time consuming the first few you do, but the process with some variations applies to most everything on the road. <br> Sorry for opening up this can yet again, but so many people research by keywords, i wanted folsk out there that these can be serviced. <br> The O.P. mentioned the rectangle thing in the broken pladtic...sounds like that is a ceramic wedge sig/tag. Not sure if they used Temic, or Texas, Megamos....nothing on my cell phone lookup apps had that info listed. But it confirms a Vadis module. <br> AR32 / Zedfull / Tango / AD900 / Miraclone / SuperVag / TMPro / YaddaYaddaYadda

<br> ill you be at Just Cars 2016?

The Volvo owners club have a long discussion covering this.