2003 Chevy Cavalier Won't Crank

"This seems to lead to some relay or interlock switch or perhaps even the ignition switch itself."

Think you've pinned it. Got a workshop manual (or at least a wiring diagram?). Try to find the relay that drives the solenoid - swap it temporarily with another similar, and/or see whether it 'clicks' when you turn the key.

Is it your PASSLOCK system?

automatic tranny I presume. if it is a stick shift the clutch safety switch might be bad, otherwise it is the solenoid, starter relay or the ignition switch itself.

Perhaps auto trans safety switch?

check to see if fuse is blown most likely! if anti-theft light is flashing it is passlock problem. could be many more problems (netrual safety/range switch relay) if it is passlock you need shop or dealer.

One other thing to check is the column switch. At the bottom of the column near the fire wall. where the switch plugs into the harness. If that switch is lose on the column the key switch can not turn far enough to make contact, and close the circuit to the starter

There is a small relay in the underdash fusebox that hits the starter solenoid when you turn the key to the start position. Also, if you have financed this car, missed a payment, and the car lot you bought it from has installed an ignition interlock, they have disabled the starter circuit by satillite. The unit disrupts power to the starter resulting in exactly the behavior you described. Some anti-theft devices do the same, and you are not the original owner, you may have an old one still installed that has malfunctioned. (I install satillite tracking devices and anti-theft devices for carlots, in bait cars for local law enforcewment, and people interested in tracking their equipment, teenagers, spouses, etc. That's sort of how I know all this.)

Thanks very much. I've found an owners manual online and have downloaded it. It shows where the relays are and fuses. There appears to be one fuse associated with the starter and a relay. Both parts are very cheap, so I'll swap them to see if either is the problem.

I'll also check out the neutral safety switch on the automatic stick shift.

Thanks for the helpful hints. Heck, I miss the old days when it was usually the battery, starter are associated cables ;-)

Thanks again

For a quick check, try moving the automush transmission selector to neutral then try cranking. My '00 Ford F-150 sometimes does not like to start in Park because the switch is worn or the cable is slightly mis-adjusted. Hasn't been enough of an annoyance to run that to ground just yet.

Wow... that worked! I shifted the shifter to neutral and the car started just fine. Then I put it back to park and it still started just fine, which seemed a little strange.

Does this mean that the switch is worn or that the cable is cable adjustment is just a bit off?

Thanks for the hint.

Are you old enough to remember when starting a Ford required 2 hands? One to turn the key, and one to hold the automatic shift linkage further into park ? When Ford still had the key to the left of the column, it was easy. But when they moved to the right of column, it required the left hand to reach around the steering wheel to pull up on the shift lever. Yes, those were the good old days.

what about the control voltge at the solonoid at the start position?

Hello,

I want to make sure that I'm clear on your question. As you know, when I use a screw driver and short from the positive post on the starter to the smaller post ( with the key on of course ), the vehicle cranks, starts and runs.

The positive post on the starter is connected to the positive post on the battery via the positive battery cable. Are you suggesting that I use a volt meter to check the voltage at the smaller post on when the key is turned all the way to the cranking position?

What should the voltage be at that point?

If I'm off, please clarify.

Thanks

If you got results by trying it in neutral, that is the problem area. Look at the switch itself mounted on the shift linkage. The wires you are looking for are purple, and could also be a purple with a white tracer on it. The switch may have come loose, be out of adjustment, or just burning the contacts internally. Use the test light you are going to buy to determine what is wrong. Follow the manual and good luck.

Weigh it in.

"Recycle - the possibilities are endless." _{- Anon}