2000 Z-24 Trouble Starting

These vehicles Have more that their share of fuel pump problems. There should be a wire under the hood n ext to the driver's shock tower that has a red plastic terminal cover on it. That should be a test point to check the power going to the tank mounted fuel pump. As for a test of the coil on plug system, pull the spark plug out, connect all of the coil system to it, use a jumper wire to ground the spark plug. Now go crank over the engine and look for spark. I think an easier test would be to spray some starting fluid into the air intake, and see if it starts.

If you do a search here for Cavaliers, you will find many similar threads on no start conditions. Good luck, and welcome.

Thanks man, ill check it out.

Bob is right,

Go back to basics, check for fuel, check for spark.

Ensure that each is physically present in the cylinders.

Check fuel pressure in the manifold to the injectors.

Check the injectors are opening....

I've got a 2001 GMC Sierra (4.3 V-6)that occasionally gives me trouble starting. When I cycle the key, I can hear the in tank fuel pump pressurize up (1-1.5 sec) the engine turns over but won't start. Another fellow with the same problem showed me to remove the cover from the engine compartment fuse box, wiggle all fuses and/or remove them and reinstall as if there was corrosion interfering with the connections. Go figure. The damn thing fires up.

The sound of the fuel pump should help you, but only if you have heard one before. It would help to have an assistant listen to the fuel tank as you turn the switch from off to run a few times. From the tank area, the sound is easier to hear. Most times if the pump makes noise, it will pump sufficient fuel to start. Good luck.

PS. How old is the fuel filter? Unless fairly new, it is as much work to test it as it is to replace it.

I have no proof, but my personal belief is that the fuel pump is forced to work harder when the fuel level is low. When the tank is low, the pump must first pull the fuel up to the pump, then pressurize the line from pump to injectors. During that time, the pump is running dry with no benefit from the cooling and lubricating action of the fuel. SO, it would probably let these in tank pumps live longer if kept submerged. Again, just mu thoughts.

You may have two pumps - a high volume low pressure pick up pump in the tank and a low volume high pressure in line.

I had this arrangement and when the in-tank pump died it all worked fine if the tank was full, but when down to 1/3 it would cut out intermittently, particularly when hot - let it cool down and it worked again.

I was only aware of the duel pumps being use on Ford Trucks during the early years of fuel injection. What vehicle did you have duel pumps on?

Peugeot 505GTI

Also all the CIS Motronic VW's (MkII Golfs and Jetta's 1984 through 1987, and probably the 79 and up Rabbits, Scirracco, Jettas) have a low pressure pump in the fuel tank and a high pressure pump in a separate housing with the accumulator and filter.

It was probably, and may well remain Bosch's preferred configuration.

Now that I think about it I had a friend with a MB 560 something. The fuel pump on that looked like it might have been 2 pumps semi attached. Her problem turned out to be the relay, so never pursued it any further. Getting blurry now.

If you hear the pump running then you need to check the fuel pressure regulator on the fuel rail there is a schrad valve on the fuel rail that a gauge will screw onto with the valve with the proper adapter and you should read between 38 and 42 psi and when you turn the key off it should hold that pressure for at least 30 seconds minimum. If the pressure comes up and then immediately falls off when you turn the key off then the check valve in the fuel pickup assembly is defective and will have to be replaced.