Ford Everest 2005 Starting Problem in Morning

Hard to tell, but it sounds like your starter solenoid is spinning and not engaging the starter. Maybe replace the solenoid, or more likely the entire starter. This is a guess.

hello Kramarat,

thanks for the reply,

however, i have a doubt the reason if there's a problem in a starter, but everytime after the first start it starts perfectly within a second, this problem is only in morning means after the vehicle is idle for a long time of say 5 to 6 hours approx. or more then that. means solenoid & starter should give problem during other attempts also & not only in first attempt after cooling period.

so i think there must be something else then a starter.

thanks once again for your input.

rergards,

proride.

Here are some things you can check. Intermittent problems are never easy to pin down. You may want to register and post your question on this site too.

http://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-cranks-but-wont-start

thanks a lot for your help

Be sure to check back here. Someone may know the exact problem. Good luck.

defect battery.

change battery by new one and it will solve your problem .

good luck

I suspect that your "heater pins" are the same as the U.S. term "glow plugs" and that they may not be working well.

The problem may be air getting in the line from tank to injector pump. How old is the fuel filter? Any signs of fuel leakage in lines going to the tank?

The glow plugs should have 1 ohm resistance when measured. Good luck.

Maybe a small leak in the fuel system possibly at the injector o-ring is causing the fuel line pressure to drop over time. This would cause air in the lines when you go to start the first time in the morning, or after a long sit. You would have to crank it over a bit to build fuel pressure back to operating pressure before it would start again. once started the pressure in the lines would hold for a bit, allowing it to start right back up. Again, just a thought...

Hello RVZ717,

i think u must b right, because i see & feel that the stater spins, the engine also gets crancked & some times it picks just for a fraction of second & goes off, but otherwise one can understand that either ther's a lack of fuel (fuel pressure) may be the reason,

i request you to let me know how do i rectify it, is it possible to change the injector O-ring or in a layman terms the washers will it be sufficient? or what exactly needs to be done?

thanks in anticipation in advance.

regards,

proride

HI RVZ717,

further to my last reply i wish to add that while observing the turbo pipe i saw a leakage of oil & dirt accumulation at the joint where turbo pipe fits on the engine side on top the clip on the pipe is tight, any idea? does this adds upto the problem? any suggestions?

thanks once again

proride

You would want to follow your fuel line from your fuel tank up to the engine, look for filters, remove, and replace if you find any. Keep following that same line right up to the Fuel pump (this IS diesel right?). Look all around the pump for leakage, from the pump there (I'm totally unfamiliar with this particular car) should be some lines that head off to each cylinder, follow those lines up until they attach to the engine itself. That junction should be inspected (and all along the way) for any buildup of dirt/grime, or wetness. If you find any buildup/wetness, you should have a closer look. Again, This is only one idea, out of hundreds possible. Does the car start right off when you give it a good push, and engage the clutch to roll start it? If so, then the fuel issue cannot exist, and I would then look much closer at that starter assembly.

Do not let your turbo leak oil, you will be looking at an expensive repair bill if you let the turbo leak.

hi rvz717,

thanks for the info., further, can you pls. tell me what might be the reason the turbo is leaking & how to rectify it? is there need to change any part or i just ask the mechanic to fix it through regular servicing etc?

thanks & regards,

proride

You would need to remove, clean/inspect, lubricate, and reinstall the turbo with new seals/gaskets. This would not be an "easy" fix for your average Joe, and might best be done in a shop, depending on your mechanical ability. I would wager that if the turbo is leaking, and you have a dirt buildup around it, then the chances of the turbo not needing replacement might be slim. Turbos take a lot of heat and stress, and require good clean oil to operate properly.

HI RVZ717,

thanks for ur inputs, i went to the garage & mechanic infromed me that instead of repairing the turbo i should put a new one as even after a repair it will start leaking after 3 to 4 months again the repairing will cost approx. 150 to 200 USD & for new he is going to give me an estimate in couple of days.

any suggestions? should i go fo repair or a new one?

regards,

proride

Not new, but rebuilt, or re-manufactured would be the way to go if you decide to replace the turbo. But the turbo is not the cause of your starting problem. Weather the turbo leaks or not, the engine should start. As for repairing it only to have it leak again after 3 to 4 months, Be careful here. Turbos are sealed units. Pressurized oil is fed to lubricate them. Oil is then drained back to the engine's oil pan. If the oil is leaking from either of these lines, and a proper repair is made, there should not be another oil leak in 3 to 4 months.

Exhaust from the engine is routed to the turbo, and then exits to the tail/exhaust pipe. If the leak is here, you should see the soot, and hear the sound. This is not your description.

Clean air is drawn into the turbo from the air filter. This will not show any signs of oil if not tight, so that is not your leak

Air that is now pressurized from the turbo is routed to the engine intake manifold. This air may be contaminated with oil leaking from the turbo. This sounds to me like the leakage you described here. If just the gasket is replaced, and the turbo is leaking oil it will show up again, because the cause of the problem was not solved. If the oil is leaking from the turbo, the oil leak needs to be repaired. If the mechanic is not going to repair the oil leak, don't let him just change the mounting gasket leading to the intake. You will not have fixed anything.

Again, the starting problem should not be caused by the turbo.

Probably need a new one, a turbo is a high stress component. Get a couple different estimates.

HI Bob C,

thanks for ur reply, probably it seems logical but just to let u know i am very perticular in maintaining my ford with regular servicing after every 5000Km & every service i change the oil filter & every alternate service the fuel & air filter & flush the engine, i think i shall check if any leakge around the injectors due to bad washer condition, but just tell me how to recognise the fuel leakage in lines? & what exactly you mean by "fuel line" term.

thnaks once again

regards,

proride

Are you saying that it roll starts easily but not with the starter? ie starter spins but does not crank the engine?

If so, some suggestions:

1. loose starter motor mounting bolts

2. faulty solenoid

3. faulty bendix

4. faulty ring gear

With all respect to all members views

according to O.P description

While putting on the ignition key & cranking the engine it just sounds the starter & not picking up but while rolling on to the slope it just starts in a second.

It means no problem in fuel injection system like fuel leakage or others ( it starts in seconds while rolling on to slope )

But when I try to start it after that first start it starts quickly as usual

It means no problem in starter,his problem only in first starting attempt

Again if the vehicle is parked in the office & while going back home it gives the same problem.

The same problem repeated only after long parking hours.

as i said before its a battery problem.

old defect battery has an internal short in one or more of battery cells.

When a battery has shorted cells, the battery will take a charge in most cases, but it will not hold that charge long. It can be charged during the day to a full charge and die overnight.
I thought its the same case , battery runs good while engine run or after short parking time.

for long parking time , battery becomes dead due to internal cells short ,So it can't crank engine.
but while rolling on to the slope it just starts in a seconds , in such case no power needed for engine cranking , the few remaining power is only enough to generate sparks . That why it starts in a seconds while it rolling on to the slope.

after the first start, battery will be charged again and this problem will be vanished,but it will come back after long barking time

I was under the impression that the engine would crank over just fine, but not fire, indicating a healthy battery. The broken English of the OP does make it hard to understand the real question. I would think that if the battery was indeed in need of replacement, and the reason the car would not start, the problem would be staring the OP in the face. to the OP: Do you need to "jump" or recharge the battery in order to get the car started, or does the battery successfully turn the engine over, but fail to start it??

hi there,

the battery is fine i would say because presently since last 3 days i am managing the car to start with battery after long cranking done through battery only, it takes at least 10 seconds to start the car continously cranking through the battery only. after smoking,

so battery successfully starts the car after long cranking.

regards,

proride

In reply to 15, 16, and 18, this is easy to resolve. A simple battery load test will show a defective, or weak battery.

In regards to the turbo leak, a leaking turbo needs to be repaired, but if what you have is some seepage, that is another thing. The gasket between the turbo, and intake manifold may have been held in place with grease when last assembled. when squeezed together some of the grease will be forced out around the edges. If you wipe the area down with brake cleaner, or something similar, and it stays dry, let it be.

The post about checking the fuel line is right on the money. just follow from the tank to the injector pump, and then the injectors and connecting lines for any wet spots. good luck.

It's clear that OP is just a car owner , he doesn't has any technical back ground which can assist him to follow different suggestion , He didn't give any clear answers .He suddenly turned from the original problem ( starting problem) and starts in another one ( turbo charger ) which is a completely different issue . So the best solution is to send your car for the nearest Ford service center . don't forget to inform what was the problem .

Hi Proride, this chain is a few years old but I have exactly the same problem. Did you find out what was causing it? Pleas let me know!