Easy to Flake Floors

If the floor substrate is flexible and the epoxy is brittle, that could lead to flaking. Maybe polyurethane or some other coating would be more resilient, though you might be trading off some hardness. Just an idea, but I would talk with a paint outfit.

Talk to the coating experts on this one as it really depends on the specifics of the application, site, surface, environment, etc. Painted surfaces are common (tiled are not) and it doesn't sound like your application is too difficult.

No surface will last forever and as such will need to be redone eventually.

Oh, and make sure it is not done cheaply! Improper or rushed surface preparation and setting time will result in a surface that WILL prematurely fail.

That weight in motion is making a moving deformation that causes some differential shear = chipped paint. This is much like rolling wheels on carpet and you get ripples of carpet.

As someone else said, surface preparation so the surface is etched and ready for the paint to form a strong bond that will resist this creep is important. An old floor like yours might need to be sand blasted and then you must use a high density filled 2 part epoxy. The filling if usually powdered stone or some reinforcing material that will make up 80-90% of the cured paint. Paints like this have no solvent. They cure by chemical reaction between the 2 components.

scan these links

Consider using a wood-based flooring that uses blocks of hard wood with exposed ends that get treated with oils and impregnated with asphalt or equivalent "food grade" product- urethane or silicone.

Theses take tremendous wear without damage and provide a safe walking and driving surface, plus reduce foot and back strain as well for the employees walking across or standing on for work.

wood-based... but in food agencies / policies there is a "NO WOOD POLICY"...

I believe that lots of epoxy floors are poured rather than painted. You can even get epoxy screeds (three part: resin, hardener and aggregate), about $150 for 25 Kg.

Ouch that's expensive 25Kg is only good for about a square metre. You may find a cheaper supplier/contractor.

Of course preparation and primer is essential.

These folks (actually a large international) have done miracles on commercial applications for years and did my floors too. Special floor prep machines, extreme professionals, no bull crap and yes, it cost money. Not only beautiful but hard as nails. I do not have any affiliation other than a very satisfied customer. They are well TRAINED and thoroughly evaluate the floor and tell you why it flaked and how it gets fixed. All of my places will get their attention, I hate wasting money, especially on floors. http://www.bona.com/en-gb/Global/Contractors/Bona-Mega-Extra-Matt/

1. Try with synthetic enamel paint periodically . it is cheap and gives smooth finish.it can stretch a bit unlike epoxy, which is brittle and one crack anywhere on epoxy floor you have progressive failure. 2. poly-eurathane painting is good and as long as you have rubber wheel ,it will stand. but one scratch anywhere will lead to complete removal very fast. base concrete has to be good and solid. 3.a 5mm thick vinyl line is a good option. it has to be welded at the joints and laid from the rolls on glued surface. it lasts long, but again avoid scratches/tears. 4. when nothing works lay mild steel plates on concrete. expensive but once done well ,it will last for ever.

We have this and it gets extremely tough treatment. Only problems occur where surface treatment was not done properly.

http://www.stonhard.com/

Hello all,

Instead of painting. Why not stain the concrete and seal and polish it.

http://utahcommercialpainting.com/indulll.jpg

I think it looks nice...and you know it will hold up. Just buff it once in awhile.

bill12780

A friend of mine sells this product, Tnemec. Sounds like it's similar to what you're looking for.

Tnemec

MeZa

You want to go with polished concrete or tile I've seen both in food plants

the tiles I've seen are impregnated with grit & use a urethane grout between. the tiles are capable of supporting fullsized forklift traffic

either option is going to require paint removal & probably surface grinding

what specific type / kind of tiles i should be looking for?

I'm not seeing the exact ones that this particular factory used, which were over 1 inch thick red clay with small grains of silica carbide embedded in the surface [ 5-10 grains per square inch], deeply grooved on the back side for the grout.

I'm not sure where you are located

these guys should be able to help you

I've removed the existing paint from these floors before. My method was to run a water rinsable stripper directly through my large airless sprayer. Once the paint wrinkles up from the floor it can be pushed and shoveled up with snow shovels. This is followed by pressure wash and then traditional concrete preparation.

It's a nasty, slippery job. It's also very fast. Not fast enough not to plan a plant shutdown though.