connection details for Start/STop Push button

Shouldn't there be a 'STOP' button at the station, too?

Never mind... category 75 post.

Man,

It those pesky details that trip you up every time. Given the completness (or lack thereof) of your question, I don't believe that you are competent to proceed.

I'm hesitant to respond, because I believe that "a little knowledge is a dangerous thing". And, man, I think you are lethal.

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This is the answer to our OP question. It is the answer to the Ultimate Question of Life, the Universe, and Everything. Use this answer wisely.

What type of wire mount is the switch? screw, solder, spade... etc, will depend on length of detail needed. Color of wire is also important

I just finished a month long bar-code reader system on a assembly line that was working quite well until I read your bar-code. Dammit

One way to do it:

L1
|---Local Start---------------------------------------------|
|---Remote Start-------------------------------------------|
|---Remote Stop---Local Stop---Starter Aux. N.O. Contact---|---Starter Coil---L2

yes there is stop pushbutton.

This is the most basic of all motor control circuits, the thing that you learn first in any classes.

Supply => NC Stop => NO Start => starter coil.

NO aux of starter in parallel to Start.

US diagram example.

JRaef, is it normal American practice to put sections of control circuits on the negative side of the coil? Dangerous to my mind.

There are some circuits, such as for reversing starters, in which the overloads are common to both coils. Other switching is placed in the "hot" conductor, but the overload(s) are sometimes in the neutral. However, the neutral is some other color than white (usually red) until after the last overload. From there on, it is a true neutral, and white.

TonyS,

As Tornado said, only the OL aux contacts. It's common only because that's the way it was done for many years in the Automotive industry, from whence a lot of our standards arose such as NEMA. I have been in several debates as to the engineering justification for doing so and the only one I buy is that it seemed to make sense for the times (1920's when the biggest boom happened). The concept is (was) that when the automotive industry was expanding rapidly, electricians were in such demand that anyone who could connect a wire was given a job. But unfortunately that meant most of them had no clue how a motor starter worked and they would frequently fail to wire up the OL relays correctly (2 or 3 separate NC contacts in series with one side of the coil). So when NEMA formed, one of their tasks was to design a motor starter standard by which all mfrs would adhere, and in that standard they decided to ALWAYS pre-wire the OL contacts at the factory to one side of the coil. That meant then that when 120V control was used on a grounded neutral circuit (as became common later), one side of that pre-wired circuit ended up being on the Neutral side of the coil out of necessity.

NEMA starters are still built that way and union electricians who get trained for industrial work here are used to seeing the OL contact on that side of the coil. But most OEMs are now using IEC starters and circuits are generally designed with the OL contact on the "hot" side now so that when equipment gets exported (that's a laugh) the circuit is familiar to everyone else.

That drawing I posted was just the first one I could find in a format that could be posted.

Best of luck, you'll need it!

Especially when your boss finds out you've run the wrong cable.

i hope you are familiar with the aspect of capacitance of a long control cable ? A common problem is that the contactor will not drop off when the STOP button is pressed.

Read more about it here : moeller

The history aspect is interesting. In panels I have designed, I have usually tried to "migrate" the OL's to the "hot" side. There is a considerable trouble-shooting advantage for this; you can put one voltage probe on the neutral and simply walk the other probe through all the switches and contacts on the "hot" side.