2003 Chevy Cavalier Intermittent Start Issue (2.2 ecotec OHC)

This is the most problem prone vehicle on the planet.

2003 Chevrolet Cavalier Complaints, Problems & Defects Information ...

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I have checked for my specific problem and have not found a resolution. Please note that I have scoured page after page for hours trying to find a solution to my issue.

Sorry.

The Cavalier seems to capable of failing in as many ways as there are Cavaliers.

Good luck.

I think part of that problem is that CR4 pops up when people search for Cavalier problems, so we get another problem. We should be getting better at them by now.

The key sticks, but it is not exactly a jiggle that gets the car to prime. Turning the key ALL the way off then back to ON will sometimes trigger a prime. It seems like the more I try the more fails I get. I found some links on previous Cavalier posts and I think I will try and troubleshoot the oil pressure switch that wont allow the car to start if low oil pressure.

My question is now, why does my relay chatter/buzz when I get a failed prime. Could I not be getting enough voltage to my pump to initialize the prime?

I will check through my haynes manual to see if I can test that switch before replacing it. I will keep you all posted on what I find. It's been raining super hard here today so I may not get to it for a couple days.

I'm not sure about this on the newer vehicles, but in the older ones, the key portion of the ignition switch was seperate from the electrical contact portion, so that you could replace one and not the other as needed.

Just a thought.

Good luck.

I did a google.com search of what the 2003 cavalier ignition switch looked like and it seems as though it just a module not the whole ignition setup. So you might be right lyn and thanks for the heads up. If I can get this problems solved I will be able to sell this POS. The only thing besides the fuel pump thats been bad is this situation. Car has never stalled or anything beyond starting.

You are right there is the ignition module and the key cylinder and the ignition module is a tad more expensive then the cylinder.

MrClean, what was the issues your were seeing when you needed to switch out the ignition switch? Was it simular to what I am experiencing. My Haynes manual does not list a troubleshooting techinique for the ignition switch, just the replacement proceedure.

Yes, mine was doing similar to what your experiencing. I had to jiggle the key and hold it just right to get it to start. I just had to replace the key cylinder when I did mine, that's where I would start for trouble shooting.

Just so were square and I really appreciate the info mrclean, you at first said it was the ignition switch you replaced and in the last post you mentioned it was the tumbler. I found the ignition switch at costless auto parts for 30 bucks so I was thinking that would be a cheap thing to try. When your car wouldnt start... did your relay chatter? Did you hear the fuel pump prime? Anything different happen with dash lights? Thanks again.

Ok I think I just had a major breakthrough in troubleshooting this issue. I had remembered someone mentioning that their cavalier would start with the wheel tilt all the way up. At this point I figured if it surely would start with no fail in the tilt up, it could help me isolate where the short or problem is. So I went out the to the car, tilted the wheel all the way up (past the last setting mark... as in, I can pull the wheel back down a 1/2 inch to get it to the last setting) and surely enough 10/10 times I turn the key, I hear the pump prime and engine simply starts. So to make sure I am not going completely mad I stick the wheel back down into the setting I usually have it at (lowest or near lowest) and for sure only 2/10 times when key turned engine primes and engine won't start. So it is almost sounding like a loose connection at that Ignition Switch or just a wire loose somewhere else. I imagine that the wires stretch as the tilt is brought down and that they are more natural with the tilt up. What do you guys think? I think I am getting closer to getting this thing running well enough to sell it. Thanks again.

There may be more to this than meets the eye, first a few questions:

Does this happen truly randomly or does it occur after some external condition like:

Engine hot, engine cold, overnight, hasn't been driven for minutes, hours, days, amount of fuel in the tank, etc.

If there's no discernible pattern to the failed starts then it may be time to invest in a cheapie fuel pressure gauge, it should easily attach to the fuel rail through a Schrader valve. Monitor/record the pressure at various times like before you try a start, after a successful one, running, immediately after shutdown, etc., you may see a pattern there. Here's why, there should be a check valve where the fuel line enters the rail. That valve is there to prevent fuel from draining back to the tank, if it intermittently leaks it will affect the fuel pressure which should be monitored by a fuel pressure sensor which is mounted at the other end of the rail. This sensor tells the ECU that there is sufficient pressure in the rail which sends a signal to the fuel pump relay telling it stop pumping (the ECU needs the pressure info so that it can "know" how long to open the injector for the engine conditions). A problem arises when the sensor drifts/sticks and indicates proper pressure when there isn't sufficient pressure to push the fuel through the injectors. The aforementioned fuel pressure gauge will help you spot this as it happens. Hope this helps.

Its purely random. Hot, Cold, Been running for a min., been running for several mins... etc. Always the same thing and consistancy. As I stated though in my last post, when I move the wheel tilt to the highest tilt it never fails to prime, starts 100% of the time out of 50 starts now. Move the wheel tilt down to the lowest setting and I get roughly a 25% start rate. When it does not start, relay chatters and no prime can be heard. I do not hear my door ajar bell in the speaker as well and I get random different lights to come onto the dash aka oil pressure, check engine, anti-theft etc. Which, mind you, never show when the car primes and starts. I am disabling the air bags and removing the steering column tomorrow. I am guessing now that there is a wire being pinched when the tilt goes down and is shorting a wire out against metal intermittenly. I know this troubleshooting sounds childs play but its rediculous that it starts 100% with wheel tilted up and troubles when tilted down. I will update you all tomorrow after I investigate. Thanks for the comments and keep them coming. Knowledge is power 8)

Jspeop I think your 100% accurate. I am going to buy the switch tonight and disasemble everything and make the change. Will post results.

I love problems like this, I wish I was there to give you a hand. I didn't read the entire thread but I did see some good info. I'd also be looking at the connections in and around the key (moisture/humidity link?).

If you have a good relay but you're hearing chatter you'd have to verify the voltage APPLIED to the relay. You might at times only be sending 9 or 10 DCV. If I had this problem and I couldn't be certain when it was going to strike next I'd do the following.

I'd wire in a switch and mount it under the dash. The switch would go directly to the battery +. When activated the power would be piggybacked directly on the + side of the relay. This way the next time the gremlin shows up I'd throw the switch and see if the relay suddenly works. Assuming this proved out then you know the relay, all the wiring to the pump and the pump itself are not part of the problem. So now I'd work back wards going towards the key/column. I'm cheap, I don't like to buy parts hoping if I buy enough of them after a while I'm bound to get it fixed.

This is what I'D do. You sound mechanically inclined enough to know how to do a test set up like this but I wouldn't advise the typical person use this method. You don't want that pump running on bypass for more than a few seconds.

Good luck!

Wait. Let me get my 2 cents in. Do you have a 12 volt test light? Is so, connect the test light wire to a good ground, and have your trusty assistant try their best to get the chatter. Hold the chatter, and probe the wires on the relay. First the wire leading to the fuel pump. It could numbered 87. If that is flashing in tune with the chatter, try the two smaller wires.85 and 86 perhaps. Are either one of them flashing? Lastly try the power going to the relay 30 if numbered. If that is also flashing, there may be a poor connection to the battery power.

You should be able to isolate your problem before buying any parts. good luck.

Well good news! I got my problem fixed. I took apart the steering console and looked at the connections @ the ignition switch and surely enough, they were loose. I tighted them up and low and behold the problem went away. I also noticed that the stock holder for the wires (a very ziptie-ish looking click) was catching on some of the electircal tape wrapped around the lower wires connecting to the ignition switch. I unclipped it and removed the wires from the harness and noted that they dont move much out of place when I tilt the wheel so I left them be. Also noticed when I put the console back together that when I slid the bottom half in it caught right onto the connecter piece for the ingition switch and the first time I put it all back on I still had the problem. So I took it all back apart and pushed everything tight again and when I reinstalled the protectors I was careful to slide it back without catching on it. 50/50 starts now with no issues with wheel tiled up or down. I am a happy person. Thanks all for your help.

I think you should post your success on the the forums that DIDN'T have this answer. Share the wealth of knowledge you just gained with others.

Dude, THANKS!!!! You just gave me somewhere to look. 2003 cavalier as well. I had intermittent starting issue last year, battery posts finally rotted off, replaced and problem seem to go away (for a while). 2 months ago my fuel pump quit (while I was driving) and replaced that and fuel filter ($500). I just did a tune up (plugs etc) and oil change last week which I consider regular maintenance anyway, so I know it's not that. I was thinking relay or maybe crank sensor. So Thanks!!

I agree 100% wiith Fredski.

Save some other poor slob, who might not be as handy with tools and brains some of the pain.

I am a lover of forumns and definatly motivated to try and share this wealth. I think this may be a major issue a lot of people are having without ever being able to figure it out. Poorly made car. Sucks that American car companies decide to make snaptight cars that wearout shortly after the warrenty. Thanks again all.

Chattering relays are almost always caused by a low voltage condition. This can be caused by a low battery, loose or dirty connections, or a wire that's broken inside intact insulation and usually makes contact but sometimes does not. (Rare, but it does happen occasionally.) Clean and tighten every ground connection you can find as well as the battery terminals. Inspect the the terminals in thier plastic housings for signs of corrosion. This is a possible break point. The connectors can be removed and replaced if necessary. There's a trick to this that I won't go into right now. If all this doesn't help, you'll develop great skill with a multi-meter as you check switches, etc. and search for that (incredibly annoying) broken wire. If you get frustrated, take a break and have a cup of coffee (or something). Good luck.

Ok, I have no affiliation with this site, but I did a google search for 2003 Cavalier won't start. I have the SAME EXACT PROBLEM that just started last Monday when I went to start the car. I just bought this 03 cavy and the key has to be jiggled multiple times to start the car. It ran fine til Monday, went to start it, cranks, I don't hear the pump prime, and nothing. So I replaced the pump with a junkyard one (not paying $180 for new one), changed the damn relay cause it chattered like a b#$@% too, changed fuel filter, and swore and yelled at it a lot, and same friggin problem.

So as being excited to read this, I ran outside, jacked the tilt all the way up, and the bastard started right up over and over again.

brockfittro, have you fixed it and found out what needs replacing exactly?

I got so excited, I didn't even see your fixed reply. I will be working on this first thing in the morning and post my results.

Yah I took apart the steering column, and pushed all the connections to the ignition switch tight. That at first fixed it. Put the steering column back together and noticed it caught on the ignition switch connector and caused the same exact issue. So I had to take it back apart. Also unhook the wires leading to the ignition switch from thier harness and that seemed to do the trick. Seems the wrap job of the electrical tape kept catching on the wire harness and pulled them back and forth as the wheel tilted, loosening them up. There may be more to this but my simple fix got it starting 100% of the time. the ignition switch may need replacing but I am not about to shove money into something that doesn't need it 8) I am glad I could already help another person 8)

It could also be what the guy up a few posts suggests. There may be a break in the wire. If I get the issue again I will most likely get my hands dirtier and do some replacing. But until then all is well.

brockfittro, I am thrilled you found the problem and a simple fix! FYI, I have found corrosion at chassis grounds that will cause intermittent problems, like relay chattering, depending on humidity. I am a firm believer in *KISS* philosophy and not the shot gun approach. Thanks for posting your finding. Danny

The key is chipped to satisfy the PASS II security system built into the computer. Use a "proper key" and your problem will be resolved.

No, it is not chipped. Did you read any of the posts previous? Did you read about how I found my issue? Did you read about how I fixed it and there is no issue anymore? Please do not jump on a solved thread and offer non-useful advice. I want people with thier crappy 2003 cavalier to read this thread and be able to solve thier issue that seems to be something frequent and common.

broc, where exactly did you find loose wires because now the same issue came up, but it happened the day after it rained. I'm beginning to think its a ground issue. Does anyone know where the chassis ground is? I looked all over the engine bay and engine only to find the battery ground on the battery tray, and what I believe is the starter ground on the front of the engine behind a radiator hose. Today I can't get it to act up again but it has been dry for days.

TooManyNeons, after you remove the steering column covers (bottom one specifically but I had to remove top to get the bottom out) look to the lower left hand side of the steering wheel (look straight forward at the wheel). Back behind there you will find the ignition switch (black device with 2 sets of wires attached to it. Those were loose for me, I pushed them in and it started flawless ever since. I also noticed that someone did a crap wrap job on the wires running to the ignition switch. The electrical tape was wrapped in a way that would catch right onto the clip (ziptie clip) and pulling them back and forth as I would tilt the wheel up and down. Once I unattached the wires from that harness and tightened the connections to the ignition switch my problem went away. Hope that helps. I won't rule out that there might be a faulty ground, loose/dirty connection or broken wire barely connecting inside but my quick fix did the trick and I am all for "if it's not broke don't fix it" heh.

Thanks. Do you know or anyone else know where the grounds are?

I joined this group only to say thank you. I purchased a 2004 Cavalier for $1000. The owner indicated that it had a bad engine. Since I have a spare engine the car seemed like a good fit for me. I got it home and since the engine would spin did a compression check, it was 190 across all four cylinders. Knowing that I dug deeper into the internet and searched "chattering relays". I came across this thread and after reading it walked to the garage and pushed the steering wheel to it's highest position and turned the key. THE ENGINE STARTED. It runs fine. If not for this discussion I would have pulled my hair out for a long time. I replaced the ignition switch ($42.00), reassembled everything, and I have a running 2004 Cavalier with 74000 miles for a 1000 bucks. thank you, thank you, thank you!!!!

I see your handle fits the scenario, huh? This forum isn't really a auto repair forum but we do field a lot of auto repair questions especially Chevy Cavalier for some reason. Anyhow, good luck and safe driving.

Your thank you is appreciated, but not needed. Instead, send a handful of $100 bills to my post office box. Send any money intended for Lyn-Door industries also to my PO box. Thank you in advance for your prompt remittal.

Glad to hear a good Cavalier story. Stay tuned to the site and enjoy the ride.

Guys I pray this will help my mechanic fix my car. My '03 Cavalier has been doing the same thing. Been w/out a car for 3 months. Hadn't been able to go visit my Mom who has cancer really bad because of having no ride. Lord I pray this will fix mine!!!!♥ At least it's another place to start. He was talking about replacing the computer.†

Send as much information as you can about how the car died. All information helps narrow it down. There are people here that want to help, but you must help with information.

Well, it's very nice to know that you are back on the road! Cavaliers are a very temperamental car.

Very best wishes for a safe and happy holiday to you.

Glad to hear we have resurrected another Cavalier. What exactly was it that turned out to be wrong with yours?

BTW, Please see post #40.

The thing that held all the wires going to the switch was loose. It supposed to have had 4 screws holding it......only had 3. Thank you all so very much again. Btw, be looking for all those hundred dollar bills Bob. I might just get Santa to bring them for me! Merry Christmas to all! Again THANKS to each of you!

My 2000 chevy cavilier had intermittent starting problems for the past two years. It would turn over but not start about once or twice a week. I always started later ok. Could never figure out why if something was going out why it never did. We replaced the battery, battery cables, starter, and solenoid. Left it with my husband for two weeks to get it to not start to have neighbor diagnose. It never did it. Then I left it with my mechanic for two weeks and it would not do it. Finally I found a web site that said chevy cavaliers ignition was shutting off when keys were too heavy. I have been using just the one key since then. It has not had anymore starting problems. After numerous hours of internet searches I finally found an answer. Positing this in hopes of helping others.

Thanks for the feedback!!! Engineers 1, Cavalier 0...