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Anodizing AA380

06/04/2011 5:00 PM

My anodizer tried to black anodize some die-cast AA380 for me and it turned out light grey. Now he says it can't be done and I'll have to strip the grey, repolish the aluminum and do something else. Is he correct? Or is there a technique to rescue this piece and get a black anodized finish?

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#1

Re: Anodizing AA380

06/05/2011 10:34 PM

Everything I've ever heard says you can anodize for corrosion protection [not as good as wrought when anodized but better than untreated 380] but it looks pretty bad - blotchy and grey. If cosmetics is an issue it won't be a good option.

I believe it is due to the high level of silicon in the alloy - the silicon is to make it castable via die casting. Fluidity and such. But that also makes surface treatments an issue.

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#2

Re: Anodizing AA380

06/05/2011 10:53 PM

Usually the silicon in aluminum casting alloys makes for splotchy and off color anodizing. Black is the worst this way. Stripping and polishing will not improve the results. Usually it only makes it worse.

Silicon is needed in cast aluminum alloys to get them to flow into a mold when molten. Common wrought aluminum alloys black anodize nicely because they don't contain silicon.

I don't know what your economics are for this project; but if you want to spend some money trying something different take a look at PVD coating (sputtering) the part with pure aluminum thick enough to work with the anodizing process. You'll likely need to polish the part between the coating and anodizing steps.

I have no experience with anodizing pure aluminum in sputtered coating form. Maybe make some test coupons out of other aluminum die castings first if the casting is valuable to you.

Ed Weldon

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#3

Re: Anodizing AA380

06/05/2011 11:18 PM

The anodic coat on an alloy for casting with a high content of silicone is very porous. Hence it turns out to be a good base for a PVDF coat.

If you want to have specifically an anodised surface you should look for a company that does hard anodising. The process is done at a temperature of -2°C and with a coat of 80-100 microns it becomes black on it's own without colouring. The surface is however dull. If you can give it a bright look you can buff the surface with cotton brushes. It will give it a gloss on the surface.

You should know that hard anodising is expensive.

Sputtering is not a good solution for an anodic coat, it tends to peel of.

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#4

Re: Anodizing AA380

06/06/2011 12:07 AM

Thanks, guys. My anodizer should have known better. The pieces in question are valve covers and I think I'll just paint them. I was trying to match the anodizing on hose fittings, but this is getting out of hand.

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#6
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Re: Anodizing AA380

06/07/2011 5:03 PM

My son does a lot of new and restorative finishing for automotive parts. He has gone to powder coating for most valve covers for durability and also because you can get anything from course matte to metallic finishes to suit matching conditions.

FYI - A black hard coat anodize is actually blue left in long enough to become black!

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#5

Re: Anodizing AA380

06/06/2011 12:52 AM

Plese refer to discussions http://cr4.globalspec.com/thread/52101/Black-Anodising-Problem regarding this problem.

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