carbon build-up removal

You can try pouring small amounts of water directly into the carb throat.

When the water turns to steam, it will expand 1700 times and either shake things loose or blow the motor up.

What? Lyn-door is out of snake oils new, improved corbon remover?

Are you sure your engine has a piston? With your posts one can't be sure for anything.

lyn seems to know what i'm talking about. i mentioned a piston twice.

Maybe this:

Disconnect and plug fuel line.
Start engine once to purge remaining fuel.
Remove spark plug.
Squirt in a small amount of penetrating solvent.
Pull starter rope slowly, turning engine over so that penetrant works its way in.
Let stand a while.
Pull starter rope rapidly to blow excess solvent out.
Reassemble spark plug and fuel line.
Prime, if necessary, and start engine.

Just an idea; I've never tried it.

what type of penatrating oil do you recommend?

i've soaked the cylinder with lacqurer thinner and tranny fluid at different times and let it set for a few days it seemed to help but the oil scraper still seems like it's not sealing, i have good compression and power but it smokes then stops and smokes again.

Not product placement...not product placement!!!

Seafoam...follow directions on the can. It'll smoke like hell, but it works pretty well. The lacquer thinner will dry out the carbon after reaching operating temp and makes it brittle. It's a little easier to remove then as it breakes out in chunks.

The key I always found to removing carbon was to scrape with material softer than the cylinder head or piston i.e., brass or plastic.

GA - I agree and have had some success with Rislone (oil additive to free up sticking valves) directly in cylinders also. Once you restart the engine, keep it at least mid-throttle to minimize burning a valve seat.

"Kroil" comes to mind, and there may be others. I have doubts about lacquer or paint thinners, but I don't know about all possibilities. Good luck.

KY, or liquor

While the engine is hot, remove sparkplug, pour in "Jeyes fluid" [It contains carbolic acid],

With cylinder vertical and sparkplug replaced, turn engine over to force jeyes fluid past the piston. Leave for a day. Remove plug, pour in boiling hot water, turn engine over[plug replaced]. remove s-plug,pull starter rope a couple of times. remove plug, pour in light oil [diesel], plug back in and turn a couple of times.

Drain and flush sump.

When I was much younger, Oldsmobile engines had a tendency to build carbon when not driven hard. The carbon would hit the head in some areas. I was taught to use Wynns Spitfire through the carborator to remove the crap. Letting the engine stall as it was poured in woud help it disolve. Just a 30 min heat soak.

BUT, in your case, your crank case is so small, why not just drain the oil, remove the cylinder head, and rotate the piston to bottom dead center. Pour Spitfire, Marvel Oil, Seafoam, or whatever other product says it will work directly onto the piston and allow it to seap past the rings and fill the crank case up. When the level does not drop any further, let it soak overnight.

Soaking in water will soften the carbon, but I do not think I would want the crank soaking in that poison. Good luck.

i would like to thank everyone for there input.

i'll try all you suggestions and let you know with one worked the best. thanks again

What if the first test works well? How will you know if other methods work as well? Or do you have a fleet of carboned up small engines? Good luck.

He should have at least four cylinders to try a different approach.

I doubt a "5 Hp Briggs" has four cylinders. ;-)