Metal Inclosure To Plastic Conduit

The person to ask is your local AHJ (Authority Having Jurisdiction, a.k.a your inspector). Every district and even AHJ seems to have their own preferences on the use of flex conduit.

But there is no issue at all with running PVC conduit into a metal box directly, hopefully you are not going through all this rigamarole of the flex conduit just for that reason.

If the cable is running in plastic then there can be no real problem having a metal box if it is earthed. Who cares a monkeys how the two are connected? Alterntively mount the dissconnect in a plastic box or a cardboard cereal packet for that matter.
Who asked you to put in the dissconnect? Ask them what they would like...
Del
<click... grumpy sarcasm mode to OFF>

Liquid tite. Below is one of many styles. I think it would meet code, but check with local authorities as has been suggested.

Don't mind the cat. He must have a fur ball.

I was assuming the conduit and box are indoors... in which case surely a simple grommet will do the job and prevent chaffing of the cable.
I don't see why it needs to be watertight. I fact I don't really see why it needs to be in conduit. After all we have power lines strung all over the countryside and in Italy they are draped all over the buildings too without the extra protection of a plastic conduit...mind they don't build their house out of timber.
I don't think the electricity will spill out over the floor...
Del
<Cough retch hack yetch>

"I was assuming the conduit and box are indoors...", and I was assuming they were outside. Otherwise, why would you need liquid tite connections?

I agree with you, indoors, it's a waste of money.

Cheers.

"(not sure what the name of these things is)" - the word you're groping for is "adapter", or possibly "gland" (though the latter is more usually used to describe a cable entry for an individual round cable).

Legal pretty much everywhere - but check your local regs.

Hi Guys

Thanks for your answers,

The local AHJ (Authority Having Jurisdiction, a.k.a your inspector) is a government person. Try communicating with that...... impossible.

and indeed the setup is outside.

J

Try to find out what IP rating you need, and select adapters accordingly.

Ok can you point me to how I find that out. THANKS

We don't use IP ratings here. Maybe we should, but most US based electricians will not know what that means.

We use NEMA ratings. If it is outdoors, it must be NEMA 3R or 4 (or 4X). Most commercial components like that will be NEMA 3R, nobody wants to spend the money for NEMA 4.

There is no exact correlation to NEMA 3R and an IP rating, but IP53 is pretty close. NEMA 3R however does not technically prevent water from entering an enclosure, just from building up to where it comes in contact with live components.

This link has some information for "National" Electric Code.

• Receptacles and switches mounted outdoors should be installed in weatherproof electrical boxes that incorporate weatherproof covers. It is advised to use bubble covers over receptacles that cover cords from the weather while they are plugged in.
• Type UF cable is to be used for direct burial wiring needs and is identified by its grey covering. Open wiring not protected in conduit should be buried at least 24" below the surface.
• Underground wiring run in plastic conduit must be buried at least 18" below the surface and in schedule 80 PVC. This is a more durable plastic conduit (grey colored) than its silimilar-looking water pipe that is a white or cream-colored piping.
• Receptacle boxes that are run out into the middle of a yard or where there is no anchoring point for the junction box, must have the schedule 80 PVC embedded in concrete to supprot the box. Another method, is to attach the box to a post that is either driven or buried in the ground. Receptacle boxes should be mounted at least 12" above grade but no more than 18" above grade for the unattached method.

All metal parts must be electrically connected to each other and attached to the "Grounding Electrode". This is known as "Bonding". A lug to the box and an appropriatly sized wire to the inverter panel should solve the problem.