Engine Replacement

Stamped into the engine block on one side or the other. If a 4 or 6 cylinder it's usually on the side the distributor come out.

You might find something here, or at a Ford forum.

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Make, model, & year?

Get the engine out from underneath? Yeah, if you entirely remove the front suspension (including cutting off the perches and welding them back on when you are done, which would require the same for the transmission). That's a pretty scary proposition with regards to gravity though.

Engines generally are extracted from the top unless you are doing a frame off restoration, which makes it much easier

I prefer the replication and teleportation method myself. You just have Jordie punch in the make (Ford?), model (Econovan) and year (star date 19??) into the replicator computer and then teleport the parts into place. It's so easy now that surgical teleporters have been included into the holodeck protocols.

Hah! I knew Ford would survive into the future!

Thanks guys for the smart remarks..!! I'm sorry now that I asked.

Anyway, for those people,who can offer some advice, it is a 1998 Ford Econovan, 4 cylinder petrol, approx. 2000cc.

The manual does indicate it being removed from underneath, after being secured to a special tool, which in turn is secured to some sort of hydraulic lift.

I had considered taking it out from the top, having first removed the seats, but getting enough headroom for a hydraulic lifting arm, maybe a problem.

On some full-size vans, you can disassemble the front grill & radiator support, and pull the engine straight out the front. I can't find much info about your model (not even any decent photos), so I can't say if that might work.

There you go! I helped out on a mid-70's Chevy van doing this. It was much more difficult that removing the hood and going out that way (for a "normal" car) but it worked.

Norm,

Yes, I reckon the only way is to lift the body off the engine and probably/maybe front crossmember.

I'm not familiar with the Econovan's internals, but consider this suggestion.

An engine/cross member/front suspension if necessary support built on a 'creeper' so you can move it. a big webbing strap around the roof (through open front doors to lift the body off using a chain block from a suitable beam/gantry/tree limb(careful of that one) .... without the engine etc the front of the vehicle won't be too heavy.

Disconnect everything, lift the body off, pull the entrails out, lower the body - do NOT climb under it while suspended just in case!

If half way through you realise you have missed something you should have disconnected, lower, work through the access bay from inside the vehicle to release it and then lift again.

Don't take any chances

If you need to do some work underneath while the engine is out buy some stands and lower it on to them.

Be careful

Typically, removing an engine from a van means removing the hood, removing the radiator/condenser and the fan shroud. removing the fan from the front of the engine, unbolting the transmission from both the engine as well as the transmission mounts, removing the rear transmission mount crossmember and the driveshaft. sliding the transmission back as far away from the engine as possible (removing it from beneath if possible. they make transmission jacks for that purpose. Here is one for reference.) and then carefully guiding the engine out of the engine compartment at an angle with a engine hoist. you MAY have to remove the front core support and the grille from the vehicle but I doubt it. you may have to remove the intake manifold and/or exhaust manifold to make room as well. Vans don't offer a LOT of room to work which is why I hate them, but it can be done.

EDIT: looks like you do need to remove the grill and core support and take the engine out through the front. you'll need what appears to be an adjustable spreader bar to allow you to control the angle of the engine during the lift.

Maybe you should build a carriage for the engine that sits on the ground and jack the van up and off the motor.

Without a pit or lift you may have trouble.

Instead of lower the engine, you can jack up the van.

Support the engine below the van. Loosen it then jack the van up to get it out.

Good idea.

I just went through this with a '99' winstar and a bad motor and bought a 96 with the same size V6, goggled every thing I could to see how to remove the engine and it had to come out the bottom. Being from the old school in removing from the front was out of the question..I was going to take it to vo-tech, which just charged for parts and a young man showed up and said he had removed a lot of them and 'nothing to it'..He had never heard of the olden way. Left him alone for an hour, motor on the ground, van jacked up and he changed to the other van the next day. It proved to me, we just have to know what we are doing and it 'ain't' that bad..Speed-o-meter was a challenge from antilog to digital but google solve that..Digital fitting worked in same bracket...

We don't have 4 cyl Econoline vans here, so I can not give you any exact information. But the less weight you have swinging the safer it will be for you. Another killer is long lifts. If something goes wrong, and the fall is only a few inches, usually small damages. But take that engine up 4 feet of the ground, and let it fall, and you can bet there will be plenty of damage.

Do you have a good assortment of chains? The safest way to remove the engine from what I have herd is a hydraulic engine hoist reaching in from the passenger's side. Less obstructions with no steering wheel. Pull the seat on the passenger side. Make sure that you position the arm of the hoist as close to the engine assembly as you can. You will need all the room you can get to not hit the door frame on top. If needed, drop the driver's side down and raise the passenger side to allow more clearance. Good luck.

google your vin number

VIN:JCOAAASGMEW

Is that the full vin number? If you search it in google, you can find out a lot abut your car. It might not work with some older cars, though.

Full vehicle details;_

1998 ECONOVAN WHI
VIN: JCOAAASGMEW33794
ENGINE: CE04508
DISPLACEMENT: 2000
FUEL: PETROL.
Norm.

Hi there lots of helpful hints so far eh?

Any tri-pod type support for lifting; here is the basic concept http://www.vestilmfg.com/products/mhequip/tripod_hoist_stands.htm

Often we have chained wooden beams together similarly of about 15 to 20 cm should be adequate for your purposes. Others here can help with specific calculations for building such a hoisting apparatus.

A smooth hard surface under the rig is helpful even plywood is better than the floor jack or dolly getting caught on every little rock.

Hi Guys, After much soul searching and the sudden realisation that if I installed the new engine myself, I would compromise the terms of warranty on the new engine. Soooo! I put it into a garage, where the project was accomplished in three days, which gives me 12 months back up, providing I comply with the terms of warranty in that, regular, documented service is carried out. Great stuff...!!

However, a problem that existed with the old engine is still apparent, that is, I get run on when I turn off the ignition. I havent spoken to the auto-engineers yet, but I think there must be a problem with the Carby...??

Some time ago, I found, upon investigation that the armature of the anti-deiseling solenoid, had, for some reason been removed and that the coil of same was open circuit...!!! Anyway, I replaced it with a second hand unit which had tested OK.! but the problem persisted. thinking that the problem was now with the engine I lived with the problem, until of course I changed the engine. Obviously, the ignition system was checked.

My question is guys, am I on the right track, or is there some other area I should be looking at ..?

Norm.

Was this a complete rebuilt engine (including cylinder heads), or just a short-block?

Hi Pantaz,

This was a complete service exchange engine, eg, complete with cylinder heads etc. but minus ancillaries, Carby and distributor. but brand new spark pugs and leads have been fitted.

The engine runs well, it's just the "run On", when turning off ignition.

Hi Bob, Thanks for the info, I would like to explore this avenue further.

I opened the engine bay and found that the accelerator cable, connect to the carby quadrant, has been adjusted so that with the engine at rest, it is approx 12mm off the adjustable stop screw.

I started the engine, and the idle speed was 1000RPM, upon the engine coming up to temperature, this increased to 1500RPM.

It didnt look as though the idle screw had ever been touched.

I then proceeded to follow your guide lines.

With the engine at temperature, I disconnected the solenoid, reduced the the idle speed to 600RPM (it wouldnt go any lower without stopping).

I then reconnected the solenoid, and using the same screw, adjusted the speed to approx. 1000RPM, roundabout the Manufacturer's recommendations.

It tells me in the manual, that if I disconnect the solenoid, at this point, the engine should shut down.

This doesn't happen..!

My question is could the throttle cable be malajusted..?

I'd appreciate your thoughts.

Norm.

With the engine at temperature, I disconnected the solenoid, reduced the the idle speed to 600RPM (it wouldn't go any lower without stopping).

I then reconnected the solenoid, and using the same screw, adjusted the speed to approx. 1000RPM, roundabout the Manufacturer's recommendations.

There should be separate adjustments for the solenoid, and the carby speed control. As for the throttle cable, it should never be the speed controlling device for an engine. The cable should be at rest, with no pre-load, but also with as little free play as possible. If the cable is used to control engine speed, the speed can vary as the engine moves around on the mounts, and the cable will fail earlier than normal from the constant load on it. Good luck.