Arrow Head to Arrow Shaft Mating

I think it depends on how you plan to attach it to the head....We used to make them out of hardwood dowels and just sharpen the end...old keys can be made into heads and attached by cutting a slot in the shaft...The balance is very important, see links..

http://www.grandpappy.info/wbow.htm
http://www.instructables.com/id/DIY-Archery/
http://www.primitiveways.com/fletching_by_hand.html
http://www.huntersfriend.com/carbon_arrows/hunting_arrows_about_field_ready.htm

Without looking at Wikipedia, I would forge a deep vee in the arrowhead to accept a shaft with a matching deep vee. Both would be fairly simple to do with standard tools. I would then look for a natural glue or sap to fasten them together.

I think lashing was done before, but I like glue. During flight and impact, the forces of acceleration and the glue should keep the arrowhead on long enough to do it's job. It's only during transport that the arrowhead gets impacted in other directions.

Sapper

We have designed arrow heads of a cutting and stunning types for a few clients and some are some are threaded and some have a taper ... send me a email and I will send you some cad generated photos of some heads.

Batt

Batt, Thanks for the offer, but I'm more interested in replicating the process of how the old style arrow heads were made and secured. Basically the forging and mating. I'll shoot what I make to tune them so they shoot straight. Regards, Stuart

Thanks one & all, I got some good info and some great links. I'll post some picks of heads & tools once I get a few made. Much appreciated, Regards, Sapper

I would use a .75"/ft, self holding taper. It is the best shape to secure a point and it leaves more conacte surface an shaft material under the point.

Simple is better

Well I would think the bigger the head the longer the shaft......vise versa the longer the shaft the bigger the head.

Hahaaaaa - quite funny, but you also raise the point of broad heads interfering with spin, so stability, range and accuracy.

There is actually quite a challenge matching broad head killing effectiveness parameters to an "aerodynamically small" head design.

Simple conflicts exist, such as if you 'twist' the head to match the fletch rate, it's a manufacturing and sharpening nightmare.

Especially when the best killing result is a razor like sharpening geometry, which is 'weak' and tears its edges on entry, creating the greatest ripping of organs etc.

Not on that site I linked to it seems, but there are tips available that use replaceable blade inserts.

It has long seemed to me that there is an opportunity to marry this insert approach to the aerodynamic and effectiveness parameters, better than current art does.

Sapper

Taper used on arrow heads I have designed are 12 deg included.

Batt