Clothes Dryer Going Out?

"It's starting to make a "REEAAT REEAAT REEAAT" sound."

Open the dryer door and let the bird out. He sounds irritated.

Maybe the dryer drum rotates on something like felt pads that have become worn?

I've had my share of broken belts and burned out heating elements (electric type.) Last time was different--thermal fuse blew twice. Turned out that it was clogged, but NOT in the outlet piping. The clog reducing the air flow was a lint build-up in the blower and other internal piping. Not just filled, but packed in there and difficult to get out, but that fixed it. Moral: whenever you are inside the cabinet of the dryer, check the whole air path for lint buildup. (Yes, we have a filter, and it does get cleaned. This was in the blower (centrifugal) and other piping.)

Cat fur has the same effect!!

Note also that even with a filter, even if the filter looks clean, even if light shines through the filter, the filter can be clogged, most notably by a build-up of anti-static chemicals from the no-cling cloths that we routinely throw in with the wet wash.

Don't believe it? Try this simple test. Take the filter out, and try running water through it. Look how slowly it flows, compared to what you expect. Now wash the filter with soapy water, and try it again. See a difference? That difference is also the difference in air flow through the filter.

I read about this, years ago, after replacing MY thermal fuse too often. I didn't believe it at first, but my wife and I ran the test, and it made believers out of us. I haven't replaced a thermal fuse or an igniter since (knock on wood).

Thunker, would you indulge us with a little bit of information?

Like maybe gas or electric? Manufacturer? Size or model number? Where are you, and where is this clothes dryer? How old is it? Stuff like that.

At this comment we don't know if this is a newer model apartment size stacking dryer or a 15 year old commercial dryer in a hotel.

Probably worn out belt. Replacement takes 10 minutes and the belts are inexpensive. If the belt is more than 2 years old, it wouldn't hurt to replace it even if that is not the problem...it will be eventually.

Aw, c'mon, take the back off and see (OK, 'listen') if you can figure where the noise is coming from.

Is it intermitent/only when running cold/etc etc.

Actually on most US dryers you take the front off to access the working parts.

Well that's no fun - you don't have to wrestle it out from under a work surface ?

If it is a squeaking sound, it's probably the bearings that support the drum and/or the idler pulley. A little oil will fix it, but it has to be a special oil called turbine oil. Not sure where you can get it, but that's what the Sears service guy uses. I tried other oils, but they only lasted a few minutes. The bearings may be worn and you can replace them yourself. As long as the motor, heating element and timer are still working, the machine is worth fixing, as long as you do the work yourself. Post this question at "ask".

It's an electric dryer, in my home. Given from a friend, probably 8yrs old at least. It still heats/drys fine. Thanks for all your input. I guess i'm yankn the back off tonight. My uncle is gunna sell me a 1968 Skylark for $500.00 I'd much rather spend my $ there, than on a 2012 Maytag!

I have repaired many dryers

There are two or three probabilities:

1. The roller bearings either dirty or worn out. The replacement ones are inexpensive.

2. There is something stuck between the rotating drum and the fixed back.

3. Sometimes the material gasket along the outside rim of the drum will shift or fold over. It would need to be reseated, or replaced

You have good answers from others. You may want to look on-line, with your make and model #'s, at one of the parts web-sites to confirm the rollers, idler, belt construction. Tip: it's not hard, but make sure you have plenty of room to work on the thing.

For future reference: if it's Whirlpool-made, you will see a thermal fuse and a bimetallic switch with 4 wires (2 of the wires go to a heater in the switch that biases the switch actuation temperature) near the exhaust port. If your dryer ever completely stops, it is probably because the fuse has opened. When you replace the fuse, go ahead and replace the switch also. (And check the hose for obstruction.) If the switch is working right, the fuse should not open. Also, if your dryer starts over-heating, the cause is usually the switch (If the little internal heater burns out, your dryer will be on permanent 'high' - really causes the 'dryness detector' cycles to act goofy.) Based on my experience as the family repairman, if you keep one of these dryers long enough, you'll see this problem. It's easy to fix, but makes me wonder how many new dryers have been sold for a simple problem.

well with my Simpson dryer they have a felt bearing in the front of them & when the felt wears out the metal on metal can make a horrible noise & a quick fix for that type of dryer is to turn them upside down so the drum runs on the felt at the top which is not worn.

These dryers are made to turn upside down when mounting them on the wall above the washing machine or bench so the controls are accessible

But I would check to see if yours is the same & is able to be turned upside down before trying this

i agree that the moving parts are worn out. i worked on appliances for years. i know from experience that it's not worth fixing.

Wrong on this one! No wonder he's anonymous.

I've fixed the exact problem you describe on my Whirlpool at least 5 times (it's around 25 years old, and still working fine) and the fix never takes more than 25USD, and about an hour of my time. If it ever goes "thump thump thump" instead of "Rheat Rheat Rheat" (Did I even spell that right? ) it is probably the rollers at the back of the drum developing flat spots from wear. Still cheap, still repairable, still well-worth doing.

I've also replaced the igniter (mine is gas) on mine, and the electric element on others, along with the thermal fuse mentioned above. All the repairs are easy and inexpensive on a Whirlpool, and the cost of replacement is so high it isn't worth buying a new one.

And, perhaps most important of all, my wife doesn't WANT a new one, because she, too, feels that the new ones are just made too cheaply to be worth it.

So, check out the felts, and the rollers, because, sure as shooting, this is a drum-and-wear parts problem, and easily repairable for most brands.

Incidentally, Norge and Maytag are made to NOT be repairable by "Harry Homeowner" (I've had them, and I've had it with them!), so if you don't own one now, don't buy one in the future.

You can also buy very inexpensive (8USD-12USD) repair books for nearly any model and brand (I get mine through Trible's repair parts, in the US) that detail part numbers, have exploded parts diagrams, and have good, simple trouble-shooting trees in them. I've used mine so often I've had to replace them, but they work, and they even help with preventive maintenance tips.

Look to see if there is something stuck in the drum...I've had nails that were left in pockets get stuck in the little holes and rub against the housing.

My experience with the "REEAAT REEAAT REEAAT" sound was caused by the upper roller in this picture. It is a thin piece of metal aprox. 0.020" thick and hardened so that it functions as a belt tensioner. The squeeking was caused by the edge of the white roller rubbing up against the spring steel bracket.The short term fix is a drop of oil on the side of the roller but a better longer lasting fix is to put a washer in beside the roller so it does not rub. Good luck.

Trible's you say?

Glorious.

now i can stuff it to the repairman.

present company excluded.

this is your problem!

Man. He looks positively baleful. How bad was it when you let him out?

I'd like to have been there to see THAT battle!

And wet chickens STINK!

Possibly, but they don't make that same sound when they go round in the microwave.

You're right! It's more of a popping sound, with that distinct smell of cooked fur!!

Fur? I thought that was a chicken? If not, what is it?

D'oh!

You guys are inspiring me to tear into it & at least give an attempt at a quick repair. The comment about the felt bearing surface, has triggered a Flashback. I remember that being the problem years ago on another hand-me-down POS-2000 someone had given me. I'm just a carpenter,I help engineer/program CNC router/build exhibits & displays for museums/tradeshows. So the "screw wedged somewhere" is definetely a possibility. Just wanna say, I get the CR4 Daily digest every morning on my computer at work. ALOT of it is W A A Y Y over my head. But I look forward to browsing the topics, & hopefully Learn Something. (AND.. the banter of the regulars, & the occasional bashing of bad suggestions,are hilarious!) Thanks again. I'll give an update or show a pic. of a sledgehammerred dryer, depending how it goes

The answers given by Solar Eagle, wjmfire, and techno's #3 answer are all really good answers. The other possibility is that the bearing on the back of the drum may be worn. If you have a GE the repair manual is downloadable from the internet. Most appliance companies furnish a repair or service manual with the machine. Those manuals are available from http://www.appliancerepair.net/clothes-dryer-repair.html. So Thunker, it is time to become a thinker and a tinkerer.

Good luck!

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The difference between a man in an orange jump suit and a three piece business suit is attitude.

You didn't say what model dryer you were having the problem with, but I just had to deal with the same issue on a GE dryer myself. After tearing mine down, I found out it was the rear bearing which is no big deal to replace I suppose. In fact mine was completely shot, but I just lubed it up with some bearing grease and it's been fine since. I also want to add that GE has been putting out garbage lately. And that's not just my opinion

It sounds to me like something is rubbing, and from your description of the sound perhaps metal on metal - perhaps a collapsing bearing ..... but you wont really know until you take its clothes (covers) off and run it naked so you can see what is happening.