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Welded relay contacts

05/10/2007 9:58 AM

Hello all,
I need a lesson on this subject because I am obviously missing something.

We have a small .4 hp 110v single phase AC 3-wire induction motor that is driven by two electromagnetic relays that upon breaking the contacts archs and welds the NC contacts together.

The circuit is has follows: trac to control the AC on and off to the common contact on the relays. Then a Micro-controller drives a standard NPN transistor that in turn drives the 28V coil of the relay(this is all standard with snubber diode arcoss the coil etc...) The Triac and relays are fired at the same time. Why you ask? Cause we all know that if I turn the triac off first and then turn off the relays the spark would not happen. We do this because the motor also has a spring loaded brake that is also controlled by the triac. If we don't turn them off at the same time we will get some coasting in the motor. Not much but its unacceptable.

When the the relay is engaged there is no spark. But when the the relay is dis-engaged there is a pretty large spark and the contacts are stuck. I should also mention here that the contacts that are being stuck are the NC contact and we are not using them (there just floating...no connection)

Now I know that I need to install either a MOV or a Snubber circuit arcross the windings of the motor so the engery stored in the winding can disapate. Now I thought at first I needed a 130V MOV (adding a little from line voltage to account for differences) but that reduced the spark but did not eliminate it. So I tried my standard 100 Ohm/.047uf RC network. Also, reduced but not eliminated. I tried both ideas together. Still no go.

I should also mention that I am pretty much stuck to this design. We are trying to "mod" an exsisting board to work with this new motor so we don't have to turn a "new" board.

I have tried every possible "guess" I have. So what I need is some one to explain exactly how to "calculate" what I need rather then going on my gut and experience.

I have "googled a oodle" and there is all but NO information on this. Lots on DC motors stuff but nothing I could find helped.

Any takers to teach me a lesson? hahahaha! This will teach me to try and do something I don't know anything about!

thanks to all in advance!

Bill12780
"driving the train"

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Anonymous Poster
#1

Re: Welded relay contacts

05/10/2007 10:21 AM

You need a capacitor resister combination made for this very reason It is 100 Ohm res in series with a 0.1 Micro farad capacitor "Snubber network". This goes across the relays contacts the ones switching the load. This queches the spark.

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Associate

Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Ohio
Posts: 48
#2

Re: Welded relay contacts

05/10/2007 11:23 AM

You got me man! Especially if that NC contacts of the relay are floating..?.. There must be continuity somewhere to get the arc. Is the arc passing through the NC contact and jumping to another point (basically creating it's own conduit through your "floating" NC contact).

Try adding an additional relay to the supply side of the arcing relay, in essence double isolating the load from the arc point. This would be easier to understand if you had a schematic.

Good luck dude!

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Location: Ohio
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#3
In reply to #2

Re: Welded relay contacts

05/10/2007 11:28 AM

Or you could listen to that guy (Mr. snubber Network) who might actually know what he is talking about...

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Power-User

Join Date: May 2007
Location: West Jordan, Utah, USA, Earth
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Good Answers: 5
#4

Re: Welded relay contacts

05/10/2007 3:23 PM

Thanks to all who replied!

I have figured it out. Latter tonight I will post a schematic and explanation.

Thanks again!

Bill12780

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Anonymous Poster
#5

Re: Welded relay contacts

05/10/2007 7:27 PM

Hello,

Your explanation of the problem is not very clear . It is said that the NC contact is floating but it is not clear weather it is used for what purpose. If you mail me your circuit an explanation can be given. Try to connect a diode with a condenser across the NC contact and mail me he result Best of luck.

vi.abraham@gmail.com

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Commentator

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#6

Re: Welded relay contacts

05/11/2007 5:43 AM

Is this brake controlled by a solenoid or something? sounds like stored energy in an inductor is the reason for your welded contacts. Maybe its reacting with the motor inductance /capacitance.

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Commentator

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Posts: 60
#7

Re: Welded relay contacts

05/11/2007 7:44 AM

Try looking into www.selinc.com and search for SEL9501 or SEL9502 named "arc supressor".

Then install it in parallel with the contacts.

this will probably solve your problem.

Regards

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#8

Re: Welded relay contacts

05/14/2007 12:03 PM

Hello all,

I have been trying to find sometime to draw up a print and a full explination of what was happening. But I have not had time to do so (work is whipping me pretty hard as of late)

Anyway to make a long, long, long story short. The Motor has two windings right...Well it was the winding NOT being used that was collecting the back emf. After watching closely I realized that the arc was comming from the un-used NC contact to the common. NOT common to NC. SO......All I had to do was cut a trace to seperate the two relays NC pins.

Thanks to everyone who responded I do appreciate all your input. One day maybe I will publish all the details for everyone.

Thanks again!

Bill12780

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Active Contributor

Join Date: Nov 2006
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#9
In reply to #8

Re: Welded relay contacts

05/14/2007 7:57 PM

Hi,

I openly admit that my electrical/electronics knowledge is limited as I'm a mechanical engineer - however, I was employed by IES in Adelaide, Australia for 17 years and they produced a unique IC that was made just for this purpose. Used in conjunction with a few other components it prolonged the relay contact life of temperature controllers for cooker rings many, many times over by eliminating the spark. IES has since become Legend - but they have a US outlet that may still be IES.

Go to www.integratedelectronicsolutions.com

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#10

Re: Welded relay contacts

05/22/2007 3:56 AM

As far as I am aware, most motors, when shorted out (after first removing the supply) whether DC, AC or Universal, will stop almost instantly anyway......its call electrodynamic braking if I remember correctly.....an energised motor has magnetism, when the supply is interrupted, the motor produces electricity as a generator for a short time. Shorting the windings (all three in a 3 phase design) causes a massive load on the generator and stops it dead, with no off center effects, that is the bearings are not stressed as for example when a mechanical brake is not perfectly aligned!)

So you may need your mechanical brake to hold things still, but you should also be utillising this function I have mentioned as well......it will certainly cut the wear down on the brake shoes as well as providing a further means of braking if any component (electrical, mechanical or electronic) in your brake circuit fails.......!!!

This is nothing new, believe me, I learnt it over 40 years ago and it was well known then......even the Dinosaurs knew about this function I expect!!

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Users who posted comments:

Andy Germany (1); Anonymous Poster (2); Astur (1); bill12780 (2); docrobgar (1); elbf2801 (1); Jakey Jake (2)

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