18" Corroded Pipe

GA ronseto!

I was briefly wondering though how the OP would have a 90 foot long rigid pipe delivered to the work site.

This might allow you to salvage more pipe diameter:

Perma-Liner Products & Systems

I watched that product deployment on one of those How It's Made or something or other on the Discovery or History channel. That is pretty amazing stuff! Expensive...but a great product.

Black PVC pipe? I don't think its PVC most likely polyethylene which is welded or mechanically coupled not glued.

Why black?

Why pull and not push?

Did you ever try to push a rope?

A pipe is not a rope.

Ronseto's suggestion is effectively a push relative to the leading end of the pipe.

While Lyn's PermaPipe would likely be the best, Ronsetto's suggestion is definitely a winner.

To be sure that things STAY together, you should glue it up using Eagle's suggestion and I would add some suspenders to that belt by suggesting 3 or 4 evenly-spaced small stainless steel screws at each joint to give you both a chemical AND a mechanical bond.

Are you sure it is PVC and not polyethylene? Black polypipe like what you see being buried by water authorities and farmers and so on doesn't take to being glued.

Maybe you should forget using the black pipe and use the white or blue stuff instead. The only black PVC tube I've seen is used as electrical conduit here and is thin and brittle. Not for plumbing at all.

I'm not sure what your application is, but I had a project to repair corroded sewer mains on a military base. The project was accomplished by a company named Insituform Technologies, which has a process of installing a new pipe inside of an existing. Cured in Place Pipe. (CIPP) No trenching needed for the repairs, and an acceptable repair procedure for both gravity and pressure pipelines. I believe this is the method referenced in a couple of the other posters. They are capable of doing various diameter pipe lines, including bends. Really a fascinating procedure to watch in progress.

Why not just use a HDPE seamless section of pipe or a relining product such as InsituForm? For a total of 90 feet of length, why not just replace the existing 18-inch diameter pipe? It would be more cost effective in the long run plus you won't have to contend with an unfilled annual ring between both pipes.

i've ran into the same problem with a badly rusted corrugated pipe that i used for an overflow for a large pond. the pipe was 21" in diameter, so i did'nt have a problem sliding a 16" pvc pipe through it. it was largen enough to hanle the over flow.

my main problem was sealing the two different diameters of pipe. the water tended to run between the gap of the two pipes.

i have a stand pipe thats approx. 3' above the level of the pipe, so it's always under water pressure.

as a second thought, would a ground rod connected to the corrugated pipe extend it's life? mybe an anode?

if you do decide to weld the joins," that seems like a great idea from ronseto", and pull the pvc pipe through the corrugated pipe, i would attach a nose cone to the leading end to help it slide through easier. it will try to hang up if the corrugated pipe is not prefectly straight, not to mention all the snags from a rusted pipe. good lubrication should be used. , [axle grease e.g?]. a heavy cable should be used to pull the pvc. you're talking about alot of tension. feed the cable through each joint as they're being connected and have all the seams welded before start. do not stop pulling once you start. it will become unmovable.

if it binds up because your equipment is too light,, yor're going to have a major problem that might require digging up a portion of the original pipe.

runnining a steel pipe inside the pvc liner will go a long way to prevent it from buckling.