Driveway Paving

A competent contractor should be able to provide you with the specifications, as well as being able to explain why it should be that way.

I wouldn't hire anybody that expected you to tell them how to do the job.

Kramarat is right, mostly.

These guys do this every day. Talk to several local companies. They may not be able to provide any specs on their proprietary "wondermix"

Something from your neck of the woods: [PDF]

The ABCs of PGAC - Ontario Hot Mix Producers Association

Canadian Asphalt Binders and SUPERPAVE Performance Grades

Thank you.

The problem with asking the contractors is that they are not objective even if I find an honest one...

You could always higher an independent QC tech to test it depending on your location the asphalt plant usually test it on there own for liability purposes you should be able to get results from them. Just comes down to compaction nuke gage or core drilling would work. ; )

There's a few....

http://www.homefocus.com/quebec/montreal/paving/

Providing a specification for a relatively small are can work against you, it can limit the number of bidders to those who know the system and know of source of the materials. Others may do as good a job but with other materials.

A better bet is to prequalify several contractors, ask each for references for work done at least a year ago and check with them, ask the ones who rise to top to bid on your job. Do you have anything along the lines of angies list up there?

If you have your drive plowed in the winter, consider what might happen to those paver stones in the walkway when the plow blade hits them, before you make a final decision on that part of your plan.

I will. Thank you

The other thing you might consider is talking to others in your area that may have their drives paved. Ask about their installation and the problems or lack of they have had.

At the cost per ton of asphalt these days it is sometimes much cheaper to use concrete. But, it also has weather related issue that come with it's used as well.

Good Luck

OP and all dear CR4 friends,

Do please go through the link Doc many times over.

http://www.nrmca.org/aboutconcrete/pervious%20concrete%20-%20-%20freeze-thaw%20durability%20per%20nrmca.pdf

PERVIOUS concrete is best . 3" thick PCC with a midway guttering to street drains all the precipitation - and keeps driveway crack free. Air entrainment agent +Super Plasticizer always help.

I only needed to skim the piece to know that it ONLY WORKS if no water is retained within the concrete structure. That requires all the work that bakerjohn suggested and I still would not use it.

From your web site:

"However, if the pervious concrete is completely saturated and is subjected to freezing, the water has no place to go. This can result in pressure on the thin cement paste that coats the aggregates and cause deterioration of pervious concrete installations."

I would also check with the city's civil engineer, assuming they have the local knowledge of the terrain and what has worked well for them over the years in all kinds of weather. What do they specify to their contractors and how do they pick the best for the job? Also, does the city pour salt on the streets in the winter and will you have to do the same on your driveway? Has the drainage solution been worked out? Just curious, how long is the driveway and how did you decide on the asphalt? Is it budget, aesthetics, maintenance practicality, all of the above? Are there alternatives that won't crack or be too slippery? Good luck with the project, post some pics and lessons learned!

People in the neighborhood use either asphalt or pavee or both. Concrete slabs do not have a good reputation and are seldom used. It might simply be that local contractors are not experienced in it or that the weather / salt is not good for concrete.

The driveway is 30' x 60' plus the sidewalks, some side filling and 30'l x 2'h retaining wall to level the property beside the current driveway.

There are two mature trees in the widen section that will need some protection wall to prevent burying the base under 2' of dearth.

The 2% dranage slope seems adhequate for the region as it has been there for the last 12 years. Simply need to fill the lower spots that developped over the years.

First lesson learned: I am glad that we waited > ten years as we cumulatively added about 4 inches of material near the garage foundations as the original excavation settled even after compaction.

"The driveway is 30' x 60'"

That's not a driveway. That's a parking lot!

Life in the sub-urban area... Nobody ever parallel park...

I live in northern Indiana. Weather here is as bad as it gets in winter. I have installed more then a couple of concrete drives that have been in service for over 30 years and look like they did the day they were poured. The freeze thaw is the issue. The finish work is the issue. But still the best for the money all around. Find a good concrete man. You can't go wrong.

I have never seen a concrete driveway that lasted around here. Is it the salt or is it that our concrete people don't know what they are doing?

Probably a bit of both combined with difficult climate. Even the highway people don't have much success. Maybe next time.

Thank you.

Marco

As long as you have good material to make concrete. Concrete has it own issues with things like salt and other deicers that will eat right though it. Plus you should check to see if ACR is an issue in your area. ACR is alkali-carbonate reaction. I basically a reaction that occurs between the cement and aggregates (dolomitic) which causes a void to form around the aggregates causing creaking and finally failure. Plus concrete is 2-3 times more expense.

Yes, absolutely. Ask what solution the local City Public Works Department and/or Street Maintenance Division has the most luck with, through out the year, over time...

I wouldn't bother with the city or township they usual take they're under rated. Go with your providence on the line of our states they put more time in testing and proper installation. The smart cities take their ques from their state government that's where the money is for research.

The City, Township, County, other would at least be happy to tell the OP what was not permissible in their jurisdiction, if not what was permissible, and thereby provide the OP knowledge of at least what not to do...

What wouldn't be permissible. Its blacktop. The most they would have for him is a mix design used by the state or providence in his case. They're no regulations on what mix design you can use. Most cities and townships don't have a clue. I've worked in the heavy construction and material business for over 20 years. Only an idiot would take advice from their locals stick to people who know the business.

OK, thank you.

What you want to do to the front of your house lot may require one, or more, kinds of Permit(s) first. You certainly would want to know ahead of time, before they tell you to tear it out, wouldn't you?...

1. Do your homework (internet) on how YOU would like it done, and not be fobbed off by what they say will "be ok." (lot of cowboys here)

2. Ensure it has no "dips" in it, after rolling. (use a leveling timber) Puddles forever!

3. I personally don't think 2% is enough of a run off. (yes in theory) but depending upon the application, variations could easily lose this slope in part.

4. If, as you say, the base is firm enough, I would still have a "1/2 down to dust" load spread evenly over the area, compacted solid and allowed to get rain soaked (washed in) a few times.

5. Ensure the tarmac is at least 2 inches deep over all the area. Any less could "peel" up and will not last long. Cheap contractors usually save on materials in the "corners" or less noticeable areas. (watch them lay it!)

6. Tarmac "creeps" i.e. can (will) spread out to nothing (and then "peel") so the area should have a firm edge to butt up to the tarmac.

7. If it is that "hot in summer" i.e. prone to melting, you could cover the fresh tarmac in cement dust. (just sprinkle from the bag and brush it in with a broom.)

This will seal the surface and make it far longer lasting. - but your tarmac will now have a greyish (cement) colour and not the fresh black, if appearance is important. However you could use a black dye in the cement dust, if you wish to keep the "black"

Hope this helps.

jt.

Some English tourists were driving through Wales.
As they were approaching Llanfairpwllgwyngyllgogerychwyrndrobwllllantysilio gogogoch, they started arguing about the pronunciation of the town's name.

They argued back and forth until they stopped for lunch.
As they stood at the counter one asked the blonde employee, "Before we order, could you please settle an argument for us?
Would you please pronounce where we are... very slowly?"

The girl leaned over the counter and said, "Burrrrrr, gerrrrrr, Kiiiiiing."

DON'T put cement dust on your asphalt! Asphalt is a flexible pavement meaning its designed to move whether from heat or weight and then flex back. Once you make it ridged with concrete dust or sealant you damage it and it will start to crack. Subbase should always be compacted what you have is a good start but another 3-6 inches of modified stone (mixture of big and little stone) so its even and flat then the contractor should hit it with a roller at least 30+ tonnes. Asphalt peels mainly because of poor subbase , poor compaction, and the temperature of the asphalt is too cool. I've worked in the materials business on and off for the last 20 years I've never seen a driveway creep must be a European occurance or to much liquid asphalt in the mix. Again never put cement dust or anything like that if your asphalt driveway is melting you have way bigger problems like your house or car is on fire.

Call your city building dept. ask what they specify for city roads, and take it from there.

The base will give you strength: I would go with 8" - 3/4" gravel , 3" HL4, 1" HL3; my 1976 driveway in Toronto is still good.

Vince