Having Issue With B30 Concrete Pavement Road Cracks

Oooooh, look! Continental drift!

I hate it when we have issues.

Have you done a slump test?

Slump test? Looks like we're way past that.

Also looks like we're way past compacting, premature stripping of formwork, sufficient rebar or mesh, float finish...

That was the only "cementy" term I knew. Slump test. PSI. Re-bar.

its nice and shiny though... I doubt a slump test was missed, it doesn't appear to be a cold joint to me, but I wonder if the surface was compacted correctly and if trapped air was mitigated correctly before the concrete set?

If the surface isn't kept wet and at the appropriate tempature concrete will crack like that. We call it alligator cracks. Was it kept wet? Covered? What temp? How many days old? Cylinders taken? Psi at 7 and 28 days did they meet design? Admix added? Too much cement? Too much water? Aggregates too dirty? List could go on. Climate and elevation also effects concrete.

I'm with BakerJohn on this, as well as his long "shopping list" of questions. We need the facts and testing results if any were performed.

IMO, we have a total lack of pertinent information to render any causation for this problem.

To me, the concrete still looks "green", and the due to the location of this crack I would assume that what we're seeing is a good sized shrinkage crack caused by inadequate moisture curing that has resulted in excessive moisture evaporation from the concrete. Also, I believe that "slab creep' may have played a role in the formation of this crack. Very high degree of differential moisture loss through the concrete mass is a high probability; lowest at the bottom of the pavement and highest at the top surface and edges.

What I'd really like to know is why is the concrete so shiny? Was a chemical curing compound applied to the exposed surface, possibly excessively?

Chances are the area is in direct sunlight and is drying to fast.

It looks like they "lost" the pour. To hot and/or to dry underneath. Or to long in the mixer with a lot of water added to "loosen" up the mix for placing. A greater area in a picture would be good. Lumpy and shiny says that it hasn't even seen a screed. I'm thinking hot day, dry base, over mixed and over wet. Sorta like lumpy soup. I bet it leveled out fast though.

I'm also in the screed camp but I'd bet its a combination of many of the things we've said if it were more of a surface crack only I'd be looking at moisture and curing but I'm thinking deeper

you might want to read the directions a little more carefully....about allowing the concrete to incompletely dry before adding this product. I wondered why it was so fricken shiny!

http://fieldscorp.com/commercial/products/prodInfo/m400pi.html

What he is using is m400 concrete a European concrete mix design used a lot in eastern Europe and Russia.

Before we used M400 concrete with 425 cement, AE and FDN admixture.

Now we using M400 concrete with 525 cement no admixture.

I am waiting for after 28 days result.

Is there any acceptable tolerance for concrete cracks?

so far 7% our road pavement has cracks.

Any new technology for fixing deep cracks?

i don`t have any experience for concrete pavement.

Rip up and replace. What is the pavement going to be used for driveway or an actual roadway. It an actual roadway I'm sure you country of original has certain spec tolerances you should be following. If this is a driveway or parking lot there are commerical concrete crack sealants out there but if the cracks are that bad it might be better to rip it all out even with crack sealant its only going to get worst. If you live in a climate in Europe with a lot of freeze thraw cycles your screwed. .

I'm agreeing regardless of its intended use this was a very bad pour and it can't be saved

depending on the intended use, cracks up to 1/2" = 6mm width maybe acceptable. what is the crack width?

Hold your horses. Don't you mean 1/2" = 12.7 mm. LOL.

oops, typo, i mean 1/4' = 6mm

roger that!