Overheating Issues on 97 Ford Taurus

The fans should also go on anytime you engage the A/C system, so that is a faster way to check fan operation.

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• Low coolant level.
• Low coolant flow:
• Restriction in pipe
• Faulty coolant pump
• Inadequate air flow past radiator unit
• Bugs in the passages between radiator elements
• Air inlet duct distorted or blocked.
• Faulty temperature sensor or wiring.
• Not switching the engine off at traffic lights.
• Etc.

I agree with lyn check that fans is running. It only runs when coolant temperature reaches a certain level. Normal driving the fan usually doesn't come on. If that's the case check to see if the wires to the temperature sensor have come lose. May have in inadvertently knocked them off when filling with coolant.

pop the hood, locate the fan.fire up the AC on MAX, the fan should start immediately. if it starts you know the fan works, then you get to work backwards to find the relay that turns it on and the water temp sender that takes your coolant temp........10:1 says its a relay under the dash, unless you're a gear-head like most of us you'll need help locating and testing these things. if its just the fan i'd go to a junkyard(I'm weird I enjoy scavenger hunts like this)

A couple of easy (?) things to check:

Clogged or dirty radiator,

Sluggish or stuck closed thermostat,

Slipping fan belt,

Intermittent or underspeed cooling fan, or its relay.

If you're handy you can diagnose these things, if not then find someone who is.

"Slipping fan belt"

Slipping serpentine belt?

Lyn, I stand corrected for my old school terminology.

Worn water pump impeller combined with bad thermostat and not popping the transmission into neutral so the engine will pump more coolant through the probably clogged radiator with the faster idle. I presume your fan goes on when the temp gets too high.

If you plan on driving it further, then properly identifying the cause (lots of good ideas here, make a list and work through them) first, then think about investing in all of the following to keep it running well a lot further:-

Replacement/rebuilt radiator.

Water pump replacement and drive belt

If toothed rubber cam drive, replace the belt and tensioner.

All hoses, including the ones inside the car need careful assessment/replacement.

All hose clips unless 100% OK change for better ones.

Thermostat replacement, modern (under approximately 40 years bold) ones fail closed. Old ones failed open!! Safer! Though modern ones sometimes have a clip that holds them open forever if the engine overheats badly, to prove that it was not the thermostat. Though I have not examined all stats for all cars!!! That has been true for some of my cars...

Check the sensor for the water temperature that it is operating exactly as needed. It could still be a bad sensor showing a temperature that is too high when everything is OK.

A blocked cat can also cause overheating I am told.....

Engine timing must be checked.

Fuel type must be correct or better than required (Petrol/Gas, not diesel!).

Antifreeze should not be "overdone" as the chemicals used do not transfer heat as well as water does....Antifreeze must be of right type for the engine construction - Aluminium only or mixed metals...

Best of luck.

and whatever you do DO NOT stop and get gas in the mountains where Andy has been

.....it depends on what I eat!!!

Ford used a cooling fan control that was mounted on, or near the fan shroud. Looks like this:

Picture not posting. (hey admin, what's up) the control is a black metal box, with about 20 wires comming out of one side 1.5" tall, 5" long,3" wide.

Check the wires on this. They are prone to overheat, and loose connection. It may also have a two speed cooling fan. Look for a ceramic resister near the fan motor itself. The fan could be running on the low speed when it needs the high speed.