Removing Rust from Internal Parts

Well I would just coat it with WD-40.....I don't think you could remove the rust without individually treating each part, but you could stop it in it's tracks with a coat of oil....

Rick Dale uses Evapo-Rust Rust Remover - Evapo-Rust Super Safe Rust Remover ...

I live in Arizona. What's rust?

I just left this guy a message. IF it does not harm the different types of metal inside ( ss, cold roll, nickel plate and some plastic, this evapo-rust will be a life saver.

Thank you once again.

Always a pleasure!

This stuff requires complete immersion for an extended period of time...and then must be rinsed off....Can the entire piece of equipment be submerged...? You would need several gallons I think....then it must be rinsed with water, and air blown dry, I would guess....

http://www.evapo-rust.com/product-info/

I have a call in to the manufacturer. the rust on the machine gears and some outer parts, may be able to just have me brush this stuff on and let sit. As for washing it off with water, that would be a tricky feat But could be done is I can keep the rinse water from getting into the servo motor.

I'll speak with the Guy tomorrow and see what's what. I see in another post there is a spray on additive that does almost the same thing. One way or the other, I'll get it.

there isn't a lot of rust... I just want to stop it now.

Trick or treat!

other than the thrust collar I don't see a lot of rust there, you could just clean that up with WD40 and Qtips

This is just one spot, there are many more.

I wouldn't use WD-40. I would use sewing machine oil and a hypodermic needle.

OSPHO converts rust (FeO) into a phosphate (black)

Best spray it off after a couple of days

I have used this stuff on some steel implements . it worked great. I remember though that you had to paint over it??? If the evapo-rust does work, I'll certainly give this a try. I had forgotten all about this product.

Thank you.

The manufacturer of Evapo stated just what Eagle said...the parts have to be immersed and rinsed off. I would have to disassemble the machine .

I will look in to the OSPHO that DV suggested. I used something akin to that years ago...I thought you had to paint over it though. . . . will find out.

otherwise, maybe some good gun oil and tooth brush.

Thanks all for the comments.

If the 'super-safe' rust remover, Evaporust, will not work, perhaps the super-unsafe rust remover, hydrofluoric acid, might do the trick.

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Hydrofluoric acid is quite adept at dissolving metal oxides. It also will etch glass and can have particularly nasty effects on living organisms. You can find it in most grocery stores in the cleaning product aisle as a rust remover called 'Whinks'.

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'Whinks' is dilute, but you still don't want to have much contact with this stuff.

A wise decision.

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Do you think the rust might have anything to do with the saltwater introduced into your shop regularly (my assumption based on working with nets)?

Here in Southeast Alaska we live with a product called PB Blaster. Shoot a little in there and you should be good to go. After a while you should follow up with some WD-40 or Singer Machine oil.

Things tend to rust when you don't use them.

Try Kroil. When I lived in Chicago, I had a lot of rusty bolts that needed to be loosened. Kroil was the only thing that would penetrate. Here's a test some guy ran with PB Blaster and Kroil. I like PB Blaster, but there's something special about Kroil. Of course, afterward, make sure you use sewing machine oil on the parts.

http://www.stovebolt.com/ubbthreads/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=215171

Why don't you try some generic phosphoric acid from your local agricultural supply store. It's cheap, can be diluted into a paintable/pourable paste and is biodegradable. Just wear some rubber gloves as it will dry out your skin pretty rapidly.

Once you've cleared the rust, try using ACF-50 Anti Corrosion Formula and lubricant, as an ongoing preventative measure. Specifically formulated to neutralise the effects of salt.

http://www.acf-50.co.uk/

Is the rust actually causing a problem or do you just want to stop it getting worse. If the machine still works OK you could use a vapour phase rust inhibitor in the casing to stop the rust increasing. These come as blocks or sheets & just need to be placed somewhere in the casing.

Phosphoric acid (OSPHO) is much safer than Hydrofluoric. Trace amounts of Phosphoric acid is in Coke. I believe Hydrofluoric acid is dangerous at any concentration. I have used both and I would not use the latter unless I had to. I would read up on the dangers of Hydrofluoric acid before I touched that stuff.

I lost considerable lung capacity due to a tiny exposure. I was digesting silicon with HF in a fume hood when the moronic maintenance staff killed the power without warning anyone. I only breathed in a quarter second of the HF & silane gas mixture. I jumped back immediately and exhaled. My quick reactions saved my lungs and allow me to live a normal life but I had to give up spear fishing. I went from 150%, a guess, I could hold my breath for many minutes or swim 200 ft horizontally on a breath, to 88%. I got off lucky I have heard of others that were not so lucky. These were all skin contact accidents.

I agree with you completely.

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I have heard that HF exposure can result in extreme pain in the body after exposure as insoluble calcium fluoride precipitates out. Did you experience this?

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It amazes me that it is sold in grocery stores. The warnings are on the label, but the print is so fine I wonder how many people actually realize that it is absorbed through the skin readily.

No, I didn't. HF is very slow to react. I remember trying to figure out how bad was the exposure that night with no symptoms I figured I was lucky. It wasn't till the early hours of the next day that I felt anything. By dawn I was coughing up blood.

I have heard through rumor that sever skin contact resulted in terrible pain months later in the bones of the victims where I worked. There were several cases but the experience was similar.

Thank you for the first hand perspective. I'm glad you recovered significantly.

I agree with your assessment.

G-96 gun lube is better.

This is from the WD-40 website about uses and recommendations....The myths and facts....

"Myth: WD-40 Multi-Use Product is not really a lubricant.

Fact:While the "W-D" in WD-40 stands for Water Displacement, WD-40Multi-Use Product is a unique, special blend of lubricants. The product's formulation also contains anti-corrosion agents and ingredients for penetration, water displacement and soil removal.
Myth: WD-40 Multi-Use Product should not be used on bike chains.
Fact:
While WD-40 Multi-Use Product it is not a grease, it is formulated with strong lubricating oils and other ingredients, and is a terrific product to use for bike maintenance. It does not attract dirt or moisture to metal surfaces - just be sure to wipe off any excessWD-40 Multi-Use Product before riding.""

http://wd40.com/about-us/myths-legends-fun-facts/

Fact... bike chains have to be WD 40 d every couple of days. Otherwise the chains stop being chains.

source... personal experience. Lots of salt on the roads here in Ottawa.

Fact... Swords and suits of armour I sell at the Renaissance Festivals cannot stay out in the foggy dew over night, no matter how much WD 40 I spray them down with. They always show signs of rust by morning. Answer...skip the wd and go with the oil. Mineral oil flavored with clove oil is my favorite and both are available at my local pharmacy.

source... personal experience.

Fact... My guns cannot withstand a ten day hunting trip if I only spray them down with WD 40.... we cannot pack enough to keep them dry the whole time. That being said, when they get soaked (like when we fall face first in a river. Oh come on...it happens) or when we get back to camp after three hours of heavy rain, there is nothing better than WD 40 to clean the guns of water, THEN we soak it with good gun oil. If we just oil without displacing the water, they ALWAYS show signs of rust the next day. If we just displace the water without oiling... same thing.

source...something other than the guy with the agenda...personal experience.

Well that depends....

http://www.wd40bike.com/

Not available in Canada. (or at least, never seen it here)

Clearly the WD40 company was stung by the bad press from the race world. They came up with a product made for bikes. Well, after walking back to Moose Jaw some 15 miles with a busted chain it will take a LOT for me to develop brand loyalty to the WD 40 company. This may be a help. What I use now works for me.

I think the grass along side that road STILL is blistered from my curses.

I like both PB Blaster, and Kroil, but Kroil is harder for me to find. To prevent just, I also have two favorites: CorrosionX HD, and Spray dry moly lubricant. The CorrosionX leaves an almost wax-like coating when dry, while the moly spray leaves the surface dry, and non-stick like. Dust dirt and to some extent water just slide off. The dry moly requires a good dry surface, but works well and lasts for about a year before the coating starts to break down. Good luck.

OK.

Lots of new suggestions and some very well heeded warnings.

The machine does not get salt on it.

I have no idea how rust got into it, but this is Louisiana and the humidity is always 65

90%.

The machine runs excellently but I do not want rust in a $4,000 stitcher.

There will be plnty and I mean plenty of tiny thread particles all over the inside of the machine. I regularly blow out these particles with an air gun ( something I learned on CR4).

If I apply a sticky anything, these lint particles from the nylon and polyester netting will adhere and make for "gummed up" mechanisms.

I need to easily remove as much rust as possible and then coat with something non-sticky so as to stop any gum-up problem.

Thank you all for the suggestions so far and please re-post AFTER reading this if you have anything better... I always look into every suggestions from you guys...no stone unturned.

Dry a can of any brand dry moly spray and see what you think.

Maybe a combination of a dry lube and a corrosion inhibiting vapor emitter.

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Remington markets a dry teflon spray on lube that works pretty well. There are probably cheaper ways to buy it though. That or another dry lube like MoS2 or graphite used in combination with something like Zerust or Bullfrog Vapor emitters inside the case, might be a viable solution.

I have simple sliding pull handles that are exposed to fresh water sprays, wind driven sand, and a salt water ocean mist. When the pull shafts are cleaned with something like brake cleaner that leaves them dry, and oil free, then a coat or two of the dry moly spray, I can usually find no slide issues for at least six months. The dry moly does a fairly good job of shedding water off of it. BUT, the stuff smells bad, really bad.

Do you have a dryer on your pressurized air system? (I figure you must...ninety percent humidity will seriously precipitate water into the air stream)

I did not think it was much of a problem until I put one in. What a difference!

Break Free (gun de ruster) followed by LPS 1 are my "go to" answers. LPS 1 dries pretty clean. As does WD 40, but you would have to WD 40 it every day since its residue really is too little to provide any long term protection. But its really good for the first day... LPS 1 is a lubricant, which WD 40 is not, but you may wash important lube away when you use it. How about plain old Kerosene? Those are my go to answers.

I have to de-rust suits of armour which sweaty jousting knights throw off after their fights and leave in the rain as they wander off with a sweet young thing. Just got a bottle of evaporust. See how it works. Right now, I sand blast and wire brush. Very labour intensive, but even a moron, I mean, user can do that. Yours should be cared for like a gun though... which is why I suggested the LPS 1 and your choice of gun de-rusting products.

There are three versions of LPS. LPS 1 is for daily application. LPS 2 is for weekly storage, but it leaves a residue which WILL pick up the little fibers. LPS 3 is for packing it away for six months to a year. Not that I am affiliated with the LPS company, its just I never found anything better for maintaining my guns. There is also a "dry film" lubricant which you might find useful. Have not used that, but it is mentioned on the link.

Thank you all again.

I have been finding most of these ingredients on the internet and have been sending them inquiries describing just what I need and just what limitations I have ( humidity, lint, etc).

Thank you all for such a huge pile of ideas.

photojournal your dissamly - make notes in progression - however with the assembly might be needed a special knowledge as how tight the grips should be e.c. e.c. = pay some money for the guy hwo knows these things ...

and get started

I just found this thread from 3 years ago. My first thought was the vapour paper that metal ground and/or polished parts used to get delivered in. I have stored ( hoarded ) a valve seat cutter in this paper for over 40 yrs, still good. It was marked 'shell vapagard' but a search of vapaguard gives results that show products that are better than my piece of brown paper. I notice several people have suggested vapor products but you didn't respond to that suggestion. If you haven't already i urge you to do so. All the sewing machines i have looked at have had surface rust. As long as the working parts are lubed the rust isn't a problem. I, too, always want to clean off the rust. But i don't. Too big a job and unnecessary. But i do live in a part of the world where humidity is only a brief problem. Some products here;- http://www.sensongroup.com/senson-tek/senson-tek-vapaguard-pads-and-rolls