Water Paint Over Oil Paint

kramarat is the resident painting expert. Then there are some with opinions.

First, if there is a good coat of paint on the wood, that isn't chipping peeling or cracking, that's what you will be painting, not the wood underneath.

All the oils and solvents in the old paint are gone, leaving basically the pigments and the binders that hold them together.

Over that you've got "chalk" and dirt and other surface gunk. If you can clean all that stuff off and still have a continuous layer of paint, you are ready to paint over it with acrylic (latex) water based paint.

I'd say use tinted primer if you are changing colors and will need two coats anyway.

If the colors are the same a good single thick coat of quality paint will last for 5-10 years, depending on your environment.

More opinions to follow.

Use a coat of this in the exterior type, water based. Buy a 5 gallon bucket to save some money. Make sure everything is thoroughly clean, first.

Finish with a quality acrylic latex.

Echoing you and Lyn. OP can get the Zinsser tinted and use 100% acrylic.

Just puttin' it out there....

http://www.diynetwork.com/remodeling/alternative-siding-options/index.html

When I get to my exterior, I've decided to go with high end vinyl siding.

I was going to go with Hardi-Plank, but my brother in law is already running into situations where it's deteriorating and needs to be replaced.

So much for 50 years....not if it gets wet.

We've got vinyl siding on the house in Minn. I love it.

They're having a warm spell up there now. It's 16°F. That's warm.

That stuff sounds like crap, isn't that the stuff that breaks if you hit it with somethin'? I think I had some of that on some old rental property I had.....When I was a kid we had aluminum siding on part of the house up north....seem like we were always repairing it, or was it that it was never repaired....oh well...I think the most low maintenance, and longest lasting was a friend's house I covered with treated t1-11 and several coats of sealer....just have to spray it down with sealer every couple of years, with a hand pump garden sprayer.....and cleaner/conditioner every 5 years or so for mildew....still looks the same as it did 10 yrs ago....takes about a half an hour to spray it down....

Looks better, I'll give you that.

It's not as bad as masonite, which is what was on my house when I bought it.

Hardiplank isn't bad, but it's expensive, and it has to be taken care of just like wood, or it will fail.

There's lots of crap vinyl siding too, but there's also nice thick stuff, that's insulated on the back.

I figure I'll buy the expensive stuff, do a self install, which I will overkill to make sure that no water ever gets behind it, and call it a day life. Once it's done, I'll be dead before it needs to be touched again.

I used some Hardi boards for the ceiling in an open carport. Besides primer, paint and caulking, what else would you recommend?

Nothing.

If it doesn't get wet from behind, like from a roof leak, it will last forever.

It's still good stuff. It just didn't turn out to be the magic bullet that it was originally touted to be,

As long as it doesn't get any prolonged or repeated direct contact moisture, it will last until the end of time.

.... and cleaner/conditioner every 5 years or so for mildew....

What brand(s) do you use? We have a lot of mildew issues down here....

Hardi-Plank got wet?

Why didn't you use bullet-proof paint? Gotta stop water... riight?

We're gonna get a lot of mileage out of that BPP.

I sort of plan on riding that pony for quite a while.

I'm trying to find a way to monetize any references made to Bullet Proof Paint by other than LynDoor^TM Defense Industries officers. Tradename paperwork is being drafted by our letigous bulldog Sue M. Bigtime at the law firm of Dewey, Cheatum and Howe. Can't find any good Tradedress, though... do you have some ideas for BPP artwork?

Clearly, the best protection!

AP 1

The primers that have been sold in the past and most of the present ones are oil based. Only recently have they come out with the supposed "primer-finished coat" acrylic paints. Personal use of them was not very good for either coat for exterior.

A good paint job is mostly in the preparation. Several weeks before you are going to paint give the area to be painted a good power washing. Get rid of dirt and loose paint from old coats. Let the surface dry well and then get up there and scrape any additional loose paint of. While you're up there check the gutters and down spouts and repair/replace as necessary. If you have wooden gutters get rid of them and replace with aluminum before painting. The coats you're putting on are only as good as the substrate that it is going on. If you put good paint on loose paint it will surely come off from under the old paint.

After doing the prep work get a very good oil based primer (the better ones are oil based). Buy it a few days before using it and have it shaken. Also stir before using each can. If your finished coat is different than the present finished coat have the primer tinted to the same color. If the big box won't do these go elsewhere. Using a good quality bristle brushes apply it in a medium thick layer on the old paint. Make sure you cover all places, especially those that are difficult to get to. Don't put too much on. If it drips or runs it is too much. Make sure you cover all places. Change brush sizes for the area being painted, 3" or 4" for open areas and 2" angled for trim if needed. With cost vs. quality, quality always wins. If you are going to put the efforts into painting, use quality paint. It will probably get you a couple additional years wear before repainting is needed.

For the second, finish, coat use a quality acrylic (latex) paint. Have it shaken before using. Use nylon or poly brushes of good quality. Never use those "bargain" brushes that are very thin. The thicker ones hold more paint and require fewer strokes. Stir before use. Apply paint with the same "good" application techniques used for the primer. You will notice the acrylic 2nd coat will flow easier than the oil based primer to the area you are painting.

After each days use clean the brushes with an appropriate solvent and close each can of paint for the next day. If left open it will either skin over or thicken.

When the job is done put all tools and paints away in an appropriate wife approved place. Get some lawn chairs and admire the excellent job done. Also have a cooler with some cold ones in it to sooth that dry parched throat

These are only the basics. There is more to doing a good paint job but this should give you an idea of the major points. A good place to learn more are the DIY books and also asking the personnel at a good paint store. Regretfully, this does not include most of the personnel at the big boxes.

Good Luck, Old Salt

GA

Reminds me of something I was told many years ago;

If it moves, salute it.

If it doesn't move, paint it.

Too many in today's world are unwilling to perform the required tedious preparation tasks that yield a long term return of reliable, trouble-free service.

Here's what I recommend. I am not very fond of painting, so I've found ways to minimize the work and maximize the longevity.

Your old oil based paint can be coated with water based paint. The new water based paints are really nice and are much easier to clean up. I don't like using a brush on outdoors, except for cutting in. I love using a sprayer, but a good one can be pricey. If not, use a roller - I think it gives you a much nicer finish.

I also want the paint to last long, so I buy better quality paint. If you're painting the entire outside, I'd recommend buying 5 gallon buckets (more consistent color). I also like the new paint and primer in one - no having to primer, then paint.

The paint I use is Behr Marquee. I don't like the rest of their line, but the Marquee is a very nice paint. It's gonna run around $220 for a 5 gal bucket, so if that's too much, try Valspar - another good brand. Standard Brand is also very good. If you want the best, go with the Marquee. It also goes further than regular paint and it flows well.

Make sure you power wash the house first, then give it enough time to dry. Use a putty knife and scrape off all the loose stuff. Where bare wood is showing, I'd use some Kilz Premium (gold can) before painting.

If you want to spray the paint, the hardest part is masking everything! I use a Graco True Coat Pro II airless sprayer - I've tried the Wagner stuff and it's okay for small projects, but shell out the extra money and get a lifetime sprayer (the Graco). I've also heard that Titan is also a good sprayer. Mine is a hand held unit, so I'm constantly filling the paint cup. I live on a hillside and our house is pretty tall, so I didn't want a paint station type machine. You may want to look into it for yourself, since you won't need to keep filling the cup - and also it's a lot lighter and easier on your arm.

If you want to roll your house, buy the best roller you can. Also, use a pole - it's much easier than climbing up and down a ladder. If you like a super smooth finish, add some Flotrol (latex). You probably won't need it if you go with the Marquee paint.

Make sure you always keep working on a wet area. Try cutting in first, then rolling, then cutting in, then rolling. If the paint edge dries, you'll notice a difference in the finish. This is why I prefer spraying. Also, you don't want the paint to dry too much before removing the tape. I recommend cutting the edge with a utility knife if it's dry - so it doesn't peel the new coat of paint.

Good luck with your project. If you do good prep work and buy good paint, you may not need to repaint for 25+ years - depending on the environment.

Thanks for this reply.

Water-based acrylic works well over oil-based enamel, if surface is prepared properly, (wash and sand). Had it done 10 years ago, and holding. Had to clean off green mould with bleach after 5 years, outside the laundry where it gets little sun, but otherwise OK. 27.5 S here, 10C (50F) winter, 35C (95F) summer. If damp in your area, recommend adding fungicide to the paint.

Works, recommended.

Thank You.