Isuzu Amigo Timing

How many miles on it? 4 or 6 cylinder? Has timing belt ever been changed (before now)? This is probably an interference engine, so you may have major damage. But the first thing I'd do is see if the starter is turning the engine.

130000 miles, 4cylinder, not sure, who ever had it before me did take care of it. after researching yes it is a interference engine. I will check starter like you said. I've not had to work on cars in fifteen years, not afraid to take anything apart and never have left overs "lol" when i put it back together. need all advice I can get. Thank you for your help

Perform a compression test if compression is not reading pull the head.

uh oh https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=f7HBgdrxsQ4

The 3.2 is a non-interference engine...hope this is the one you have, otherwise valves may be bent...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yKFAmfeaycs

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5zqmD26ZJTk

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OW0lxwWs01g

http://isuzuforums.com/forum/archive/index.php/f-19.html

its a 2.2l 2000 130,000 miles bought it 1yr ago who ever had it last took care of it. yesterday research it and it is a inter--- I did a no no and put in gear and turned key and it jerked. took it all apart again to check timing marks not sure on crank mark its just a little dent on it that I believe is mark after checking on youtube saw same mark on other Isuzu amigo.

That's a shame.... I guess you have your work cut out for you...good luck

when he threw the belt he crashed the piston faces

Assuming for the moment that you have got the timing belt on correctly, then do a compression test on each cylinder, I think you will find out that one or more cylinders have no compression anymore due to bent valve stems....(already mentioned)

If no compression, then take off the cylinder head and inspect damage. You could have a need to replace most of the valves.

Hopefully the pistons have survived, maybe with a few dents, but that should not be a problem. Hopefully the crankshaft is OK, but that is more difficult to test, maybe someone here had a method to check that out, but in all the years, I personally have never seen a bent crankshaft from such a problem...Cylinder head generally also survives....with dents maybe....

The problem was probably caused by the previous owner had never had the timing belt replaced when it should have been. On some engine types, the pulleys and the tensioner must also be replaced. Also, I don't know the mileage at which it should be done for your engine, that will be in the service manual. Generally at or before 80,000 miles as a general rule in my experience....

Two points:-

1) Never buy a car that has not had this item replaced when it should have been, only if its REALLY cheap, but get it towed to the service station for a fully replacement, never drive it there after a purchase....look at the service book at to when and if!! Get the price down if it cannot be 100% documented that it was correctly done at the correct time, or go and buy a different car, from another source!!

2) Really good modern (and really old cars too!) had a timing CHAIN, they are the better buys. Timing belts are just a way for the service station to make extra money....they can actually break at any time with no warning (seldom). The TDI diesel engines from VW are so badly designed, that a broken water pump can write the engine off as it is on the same toothed belt.....always replace water pump together with the belt and tensioner on these engines at the correct mileage (120,000 Kms or around 80,000 miles) or before.

I hope this helps....

Agreed, timing belts are bad enough at the best of times, but to use them when major engine damage happens on belt failure beggars belief, IMHO.

I had one fail on a Vauxhall Cavalier some years back, non-interference so OK, but it was at moderate mileage and company car so all the maintenance done (or paid for, at least!)

"Recycle. The possibilities are endless."

Are you sure that the timing belt was put on correctly? If in doubt, remove no 1 spark plug, turn crank clockwise [normal direction] while carefully feeling the piston move with a screwdriver, turn crank until piston is at top dead center; The distributor rotor should now point ar No 1plug lead terminal and with the tappet cover off the no.4 cam lobes should be in the position where the exhaust valve is just about closed and the intake valve just about to open. If that engine does not have a spark distributor you have to make sure that no 1 piston is at TDC on compression stroke and not at the end of exhaust stroke!