DIY Kegerator – Step 1: Converting Your Freezer/Fridge

We wanted a kegerator that could hold a slim quarter barrel. A keg this size wouldn't fit into any of the mini-fridges my roommates and I had leftover from college. Fortunately, there was an unused chest freezer in garage that we could use.

Choosing Your Kegerator-To-Be

If you are a fan of micro brews, you should keep in mind that they are commonly found in sixth and quarter barrels – anything larger would be very expensive for both the brewery and you.

While a keg tapped with air will only last a few days, a keg tapped with CO2 will last 2-3 months. That seems like a long time, but let's do some quick math:

If you drink one 12oz beer a day, every day
and if there are 30 days a month…
In three months you would have consumed 90 beers – just over half of a full keg.
If you drink two beers every day, it will still take you take two months and 23 days to finish a full keg.

Also, remember that you need space to keep your CO2 tank and regulators inside your kegerator.

Once you've found the appropriate freezer or fridge, you'll need to make some modifications.

Making Holes

Make a hole through the top of your freezer/mini-fridge. The size of this hole is dependent on the diameter of your tower.

If you are using a full-sized fridge, you should be able to fit the keg, tower and all, without having to make any big modifications. You can also have the faucet knob and head sticking out of the fridge door at a comfortable beer-pouring level. To do this, you only need to make a hole large enough to fit the shank, which can be easily done with just a large drill.

If you are converting a chest freezer, it is likely you'll be putting the tower into the freezer lid. You can certainly keep the door as it is on its hinges, but if you're feeling ambitious you can add a linkage system that would allow you to open your kegerator while keeping the door and tower level.

In our kegerator, we have a simple 4-bar mechanism. Three sets of four sturdy links work together to move the lid in a single, smooth motion while still allowing a good seal when the kegerator is closed.

The freezer is plugged into the external thermostat, which is then plugged into the wall. A probe runs from the thermostat to the inside of the kegerator. The wire should be thin enough to fit under the freezer lid without breaking the seal. This prevents you from having to make another hole through your freezer.

You now have your kegerator housing!

Next, we will work on the tubing and look at kegerator aesthetics.