Independent Party on Disappointment Cleaver - Part I

Mt. Rainier via Disappointment Cleaver is a formidable expedition on glaciated terrain for novice mountaineers. It is a challenging class III climb that attracts over 70% of summit attempts. Ranger stations at the Paradise trailhead and on the upper mountain at Camp Muir offer current trail conditions, weather models, and avalanche forecast at various elevations during peak climbing season. As you check in to start your hike you may even be offered video surveillance from Camp Muir.

Facts:

• Mt. Rainier is the most heavily-glaciated mountain in the lower 48 states with 26 major glaciers and 36 square miles of permanent snowfields and glaciers.
• It is an ultra-prominent mountain with 13,211 feet of elevation gain between base and summit, ranking it #21 in the world and third in the US.
• It is identified as one of 16 decade volcanoes by the International Association of Volcanology and Chemistry of the Earth's Interior (IAVCEI), due to its destructive nature and close proximity to populated areas.
• Peak climbing season is July through August as crevasses are less exposed and climate patterns are ideal, higher temperatures with a lower storm frequency.
• The Paradise Climbing Information Center closes for the season and self-registration is implemented following Labor Day weekend.

Intrigued by the idea of gaining experience traversing glaciated terrain, I was lured to the idea of climbing Disappointing Cleaver even if I couldn't afford time during peak climbing season. Mt. Rainier would mark my second fourteener in the Cascade Range. Check back next week for a second hand experience of a summit attempt on Labor Day Weekend of 2014.

Resources:

Mt. Rainier National Park Mountaineering Report - 2013