Speaking of Precision Blog

Speaking of Precision

Speaking of Precision is a knowledge preservation and thought leadership blog covering the precision machining industry, its materials and services. With over 36 years of hands on experience in steelmaking, manufacturing, quality, and management, Miles Free (Milo) Director of Industry Research and Technology at PMPA helps answer "How?" "With what?" and occasionally "Really?"

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3 Keys to Productive Drilling

Posted March 22, 2016 11:00 AM by Milo
Pathfinder Tags: drilling fabrication machining Tools

Here are three of my favorite and most shared ideas to get the most from drills in your shop.

  • Keep the drill short.
  • Get the feed rate right.
  • Replace the drill on schedule before it dulls.

Keep the drill short. Drills need a rigid setup. Having extra length can lead to deflection and drill wander. There is a reason that drills for screw machining applications are short- we need the rigidity. I learned this while working as the metallurgist for a steel bar company. I got a call from a customer that my steel wouldn't drill straight. After a 3-1/2 hour drive to the customer's shop out of state, I found a very narrow diameter drill (maybe 3/16″) being held in a Jacobs chuck the size of my head, being held on a Morse taper the length of my forearm. Or maybe a bit longer. Add to that a very short cycle time, and the drill and chuck never got to a repeatably steady location- they were vibrating until they entered into the next workpiece. They could enter that workpiece at a number of different locations based on that vibration and moment arm. We shortened the setup considerably and suddenly the steel that we provided was drilling straight, true and on center.

Get the feed rate right. When I was learning machining, I was taught that the feed rate determines your success in drilling. After years and years in shops like yours, I am convinced that what I was taught is correct. Yes, the wrong speed can burn up a drill. But getting the feed right assures that the chips break up appropriately. that they will flow smoothly down the flutes. Proper feed assures that the drill won't "chip out" on the cutting edge, and also that the drill itself won't crack or split up the center from too heavy of a feed.

Planned replacement of the drill before it dulls will make you more parts per shift. This is an under- appreciated way of thinking. In most companies, they have a purchasing culture and want to get the most out of a tool before replacing it. In the most profitable companies, they have a "respect the process" culture that focusses on maintaining process control, not maximum tool life. By replacingthe drill before it gets dull, they minimize downtime, They minimize the production of defective parts. They minimize the creation of workhardening in the parts produced prior to tool replacement. This means less downtime, more trouble-free uptime, and more parts at the end of the shift. Twenty extra minutes of production on a part with a ten second cycle time is an extra 120 parts at the end of the shift. Shippable, billable, no- anomaly parts.

There are other factors besides feed that influence drilling, I will grant you that.

Proper speed, proper coating, proper geometry, effective delivery of coolant- we could create quite a list.

But in my experience, the three factors that hold the secret to productive drilling in our precision machining shops are short rigid setups, proper feed, and planned or scheduled replacement. These three factors are the keys to getting more parts with less trouble out of your shop.

What do you think?

Photo credit: ENCO



Editor's Note: CR4 would like to thank Milo for sharing this blog entry, which you can also read here.

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#1

Re: 3 Keys to Productive Drilling

03/22/2016 1:22 PM

Excellent info...

We had always treated the drill similar to the end mill..... everything was based on material type end chip load. Chip load size, using chip load it didn't matter what size drill you had.

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#2

Re: 3 Keys to Productive Drilling

03/22/2016 4:39 PM

Useful info ta'... my mini lathe needs all the help it can get (probably a more experienced operator too)

Del

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#3

Re: 3 Keys to Productive Drilling

03/23/2016 3:34 AM

Interesting that you mention replacement and not refurbishment.

If your company is so intent on cost control, then surely resharpening a drill makes more economic sense than untimely replacement simply because it is becoming a little dull - this is especially the case for the larger sizes.

A slightly dull drill can be returned to perfect in less time than it would take to go to the store and get a new one.

A smart operator would have a few spares on hand, resharpened and ready for use - and it's good training for the apprentices.

Twist drills often need to have their standard angles altered for efficient operation with differing materials, and every tradesman should learn the art of drill sharpening

If this is not your way, then I'll pay the freight for all of your rejects.

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Re: 3 Keys to Productive Drilling

03/23/2016 7:12 AM

The only possibility I can see is as long as the dull drill wasn't over heated eliminated some of it properties....

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Re: 3 Keys to Productive Drilling

03/23/2016 9:56 AM

It also depends on the type of drill bit. A 'titanium coated' bit will 're-dull' more quickly after being resharpened, because the cutting edge no longer has the titanium protecting the softer steel underneath. I realize this is more of an issue for homeowners and handymen than for plants and factories, since the industrial world does not pay for titanium unless they NEED it, and in that case it's typically a milling tool with replaceable cutting faces, so you're not wasting money on a titanium-plated shaft.

Just my morning rambling...

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#6

Re: 3 Keys to Productive Drilling

03/23/2016 9:07 PM

Your experience related to a small diameter drill in a floppy setup. Larger diameter drills get a progressively thicker web and so if you cut it short you will also have to thin the web. I use an angle grinder to shape the web into a point resembling a small drill if i have to sharpen a broken (short ) large drill. The standard procedure is to pilot drill a hole that is equal in diameter to the web thickness. ALSO jobbers twist drills are harder at the end than further up. You will have noticed that the shank can bend quite easily, often adopting a curve when used in a pistol grip hand drill, but the first 1/4 of the length will snap if you try to bend it, so by shortening the drill you will get into a softer section. Correctly sharpening angles and getting the cutting edges to an equal length is more important.

Jim

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