If you read the claims on Water Wetter, you will notice that it is designed to be used in racing applications with only water. If you use it in solution with glycol anti-freeze, it will not work as well.

Just saying.....

This product may increase heat transfer from the block to the coolant and from the coolant to the radiator. But the temperature is controlled by the thermostat so I doubt it would be useful in a standard automobile engine. To drop the temperature you need to change that.

Dehydrated water for emergency

www.buydehydratedwater.com/free.htm

Love that link. I'm gonna order 1,000 units. right after I give them my credit card, soc, security number, and DOB.

BTW: I use 'Techron' in the gas, and Marvel Mystery Oil occasionally in the crankcase. Like medicine for a sick engine, or to keep it from getting sick.

"Back in the day" we would add oatmeal to a growling manual transmission, and drizzle STP in the carb to stop the tailpipe from smoking before we tried to sell the beater.

I remember my father buying Slick50. I'm pretty sure it did not work any better than conventional oil.

Actually slick50 when used as directed is far superior to conventional oil, it is superb as a gearbox lubrication enhancer. It doesn't fair well in upper cylinder lubrication of IC engines because of temperature limitations though.

I was young at the time when he bought it and unsure of the quality. Is Slick50 a synthetic?

Slick50 is comprised of conventional oil with suspended Teflon, when used the Teflon fills the anomalies in bearing surfaces creating a slickness. Back in the day manufacturers machining capabilities very less than today, the clearances were greater and the finish qualities for production courser.

Photo #1
This photo shows the raw untreated roller bearing surface magnified 290 times. This shows the irregular, pitted surface of the metal. This "roughness" is the primary cause of friction between metal surfaces.

Photo #2
Here is the same bearing as photo #1 using 30 wt. oil in the brake test. The right hand portion of this photo shows the raw untreated bearing while the left hand 2/3 portion shows the wear and actual flow pattern of the metal as it is "pushed" like waves away from the rotating race on the brake machine. The friction and wear is a result of the failure of the oil to adhere to the metal surface due to the extreme pressure applied during the brake test.

I've experienced good results using Pro-Tech lubrication products regardless of the hype. All I did was meticulously follow the directions

Yeah, I heard about the problems with Slick 50 when used as a motor oil additive. That's why my local auto supply stopped selling it. It wasn't recommended during initial break-in anyway.

I always used 50 weight oil, in old cars, during the summer. Seemed to help the compression, and last longer. Also tried something called Motalloy, which was probably just blobs of aluminum. It was supposed to renew the cylinders. You put it in the gas tank. I still add Gumout or some similar cleaner once in awhile.

Seems that there is a device that contains a permanent magnet and is snapped around the fuel line. It is advertised as a monopole magnet (yeah, right!). Some claim that the device will align certain molecules in the fuel line that will increase fuel economy. Others claim that long molecules are broken into shorter ones (a magical catalytic cracking unit) and will also increase fuel economy. Hogwash! Some independent tests had concluded that fuel economy had actually risen by 1/2 to 2 mpg. I'm skeptical.