Generator Going off on Undervoltage in Cold Weather at start up

Is there a question, or just a complaint?

Do you have a manual?

Have you asked B&S?

What have you done, if anything?

Please STATE a question.

All four of your sentences are declarative statements.

Have you done anything?

What question?

2 points come in mind:

Due to lower temperatures, you might have the gas regulator that freezes up. Considered of course that there is one like they use with propane.

Normally there should be one in the housing and one outside. Warming these up for a while will give you the answer (hair dryer - and someone close to the shut off valve in case you have a leak to interrupt the gas supply)

Brings me to the second point:

How is the supply to the generator? What pressure you have in the line (pipe).

Once the engine runs for a while, it might be just produce enough heat to make the gas transport (through the regulator) work.

Thanks for your advice.

I think there is plenty gas flow in that the gas co upgraded my meter to a 450cfh + The pipe sizing supplies approx 273cfh.

My generator only calls for approx 180cfh max .

Does the regulator freeze up at 50 degrees?

Oh--------------------My---------------------God.

I you evaporate gas from a source, you always have a cold spot. How cold depends on the temperature the gas is being supplied. You could measure the temperature with a IR thermometer and see what is happening. Only it will happen inside one of the 2 regulators - the valve, controlled by a membrane accumulates the cold gas energy that comes free.

Sometimes a heat trace tubing (flexible electric heating lint) is applied to warm up the regulator.

With propane, you can get really in trouble, cars on LPG have the regulator constantly warmed up with water from the engine or exhaust fumes from the engine exhaust.

Is your problem temperature dependent? So there must be one critical temperature. Nobody can tell you if your regulator freezes up at 50. That YOU can come and tell us after the tests.

It would be a nice contribution to have your feedback afterwards.

What have you done to determine whether the problem is on the engine side or the generator side? Is RPM stable at the first 30 seconds? What output voltage did you measure at that time, before the Error? Is AVR or exciting capacitor accesible, so that you could heat that (only) with a dryer before first starting, to see if problem goes away? Do that simple homework first and help others to (possibly) help you. S.M.

The model is Briggs & Stratton 10kW Standby Generator System (100A Service Disconnect + AC Shedding) - 40449 bought 03-29-2014.

Today at 8:00am it started + ran fine. Temp is 55 degrees. When the problem happens it reads "Under Voltage" on the panel . I'm thinking the control board may be the issue under 50 degrees.

And you think some poor soul on CR4 has experienced exactly the same problem, and solved it before, and deems it worth replying, do you? Nonsense. The manufacturer might, though, as the manufacturer has a much greater incentive to do so.

Do let me know how your telephone call went.

BS also wants a revision number along with the model number. Without the rev number your SOL as far as finding the right Service manual.

Do you have the original owner's / service manual?

I found this kinda interesting review,

"Great Generator.....terrible Tech Support

Got a break on electrician's install price. But had to have a factory trained tech come out to get it running due to loose ground cable shipped from factory + he had to re-run correct shielded twisted pair control cable in a separate pipe of his own. Briggs + Stratton gave him WRONG INFORMATION + won't talk to the consumer!!!!!!!Pros: Durable, Easy To Use, Price, Exceeded ExpectationsCons: Terrible Tech Support"The OP might be screwed if he's not mechanically inclined, has the test equipment and knows how to use them. If not, then he'll need some mighty deep pockets!

Please describe the outcome of the telephone call to the original equipment manufacturer and come back to the forum should all avenues of approach with their assistance become exhausted to no avail. It is by far the quickest route to a solution to problems.

Why do Engineers naturally pick up spanners instead of telephones (rhetorical question - NNTR)?

<unsubscribes>

I can see this fast becoming another one of "those threads"...

Ahec2222,

Like Lyn stated, is there a question in your original post? I certainly do not see one!

1. Have you tried adding an engine heater?
2. Have you tried adding an oil heater?
3. Have you tried adding an enclosure around the generator?
4. Have you tried anything?

Your "question" comes off as a STATEMENT rather than a QUESTION! Typically a sentence that is formed as a "question" ends with a QUESTION MARK and ASKS for a reply?!?!

Two quick points to make...

1) Fifty degrees is no where near cold enough to cause ANY issues for any of the components of either the generator or its gas supply.

2) Under NO CIRCUMSTANCES should you apply any type of heat source (such as heat trace) to ANY of the components of the gas system.

There is an unidentified problem at work here. It sure is not an ambient temp of 50 degrees, unless you really meant 50 below.

the problem is happening when it is below 50 degrees and progressively gets worse as the temperature drops

Wait for summer to come we are in springtime or reform your question with more details

For example #1 the number of poles of the rotor exciter.#2 the engine speed over 50C and under 50C .#3 dose your generator has A.V.R card if yes what is the type if no what is the alternative (bridge diode ) .

Old problem? Or new one?

Old Problem:

I would check the OEM operating specifications to determine if the ambient temperature is within the allowable operating constraints of the generator.

New Problem:

More than likely there is a loose connection somewhere in the controls or the generator connections such as a cold solder joint on a circuit board or loose screw or nut on a terminal strip.

I would first check all of the bolted/screwed terminations for cleanliness and proper torque.

If nothing is found I would then closely examine all of the solder joints on the circuit boards with focus on the generator voltage feedback areas.

Look for cracked and/or open voids in the solder around the base of the circuit board components.

If you attempt re-soldering of circuit board components be sure to use a heat sink device to protect the component being soldered from excessive heat damage.

If you have not performed this type of repair work, I suggest you hire a competent technician or take the generator to a reputable repair facility.

Hey B&S offer a cold weather kit for those generators. Get one if not already supplied with the unit.

All equipment that use gas fuels have regulators. These regulators absorb heat as the the gas expands. Even a 90° F if the volume of gas is too great it will cause the internal parts to freeze up if the regulator can not aborb the needed heat. In summer have seen a LPG forklift freeze the coolant in the regulator that was not properly maintained to -40°F.

The 50°F mark maybe the extent of the surface area of the regulator to absorb the need heat to keep the diaphram flexible to regulate to the desired pressure.

Maybe why B&S offer the kit. Too many complaints about starting in cold weather.

I believe I already have the kit Briggs and Stratton offers in that it is the battery warmer in the oil warmer is there another kick you're talking about

Check and make sure they work.

I think you have hit it. It might be the oil warmer not working. What's the best way to check if the oil warmer is working? Is it possible even when it's warm out?

If the heater draws current when the thermostat tells it to it is working. Measure it.

If the ambient temp is warmer than that which the heater warms the oil to, then you won't see any current unless you convince the temp sensor that it is cold when it isn't.

To what temperature is the heater supposed to warm the oil/engine block?

Anyway, if it is warm out, then the problem goes away right? It might be more difficult to trouble shoot once it stops stopping....

A thermometer springs immediately to mind; there may be other, better, methods and the forum is usually open to this sort of suggestion.

Perhaps read my posts again?

The oil might be a secondary issue, but I hope you have put the right type in it for the operating conditions.

We service about 25 generators between 6 and 20 kVA. All powered with gas (as in gas- not liquids) All in residences and the power black outs here are many.

We do not have extreme temperatures here but sometimes we have a regulator/ that freezes even with 70 degrees Fahrenheit.

Did you try with the heat? The regulator is inside the box directly behind the input of your flexible hose. and again--

Read my posts first, I gave a safety hint. Perhaps also use goggles, and cover your hair and arms, since you might have a leak too.

LNG fire, you stop by cutting the flow - that is turning the valve in the OFF position.

I have to agree with your post #19, icing up and or low gas pressure. I can't find the NG gas pressure spec's, LG is approx. 11" WC, but that's to high for NG.

It'd be interesting to see what color his spark plug is, at least we'd know if it's fuel related?

I hate 20 questions.

These "degrees" of which you speak.

I assume they have something to do with temperature.

Are they °F, °C or °K?

GMAFB!

Sometimes I wonder if people post cookoo questions just to see how many people they can put in the nut house : )

What were readings shown in voltmeter,frequency meter & speedometer?. Check AVR & governor.

Especially the speedo-meter, in case your speedos are too tight.

What we have here, gentlemen, is a failure to communicate. First with B&S, then with us. I recommend a mass unsub, starting with me.

!!!WAIT FOR ME!!!

OP already unsub

I got a call from Briggs + Stratton today.. My heart almost stopped!!!!Miracles never cease.They actually care about the little guy.

They think that the "Governor" needs to be adjusted.

Does anybody know how to adjust the governor on this Briggs & Stratton 10kW Standby Generator System (100A Service Disconnect + AC Shedding) - 40449

see my post 28

Thats good. But you need to make the adjustment s in accordance with the service manual for you generator.

Resolution:

Technician replaced control module. He said that's the first thing in the flow chart for this problem according to Briggs + Stratton

Unfortunately I won't know if this solves the problem until Fall

Thank You all for your time + effort