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Tankless Water Heaters

12/10/2015 11:34 AM

I posted recently about our tankless water heater failure and I have now replaced it. Here are some of my observations on this experience:

- Go more powerful than you think you need. We have 12 kw(220VAC 50 amp)units on our bathroom and kitchen(sink, dishwasher, guest shower and washer.)

- Inspect the circuit diagram before you buy. Both sides of the element power should be switched. Otherwise, the element can short to ground halfway through the pipe and go full on with no flow, resulting in superheated water and live steam spraying out of your faucet. (Examples: Bosch Powerstar has one side connected to power with no safety. Stiebel Elton has both sides switched with a relay and thermal safety cutoff .) This actually happened twice before it self destructed. It has been reported to UL labs.

- The heater you choose should have as low a turn on rate as possible. One with a higher rate can turn off if the flow is a trickle(especially if you use a mixer, which tends to have a lower flow because it is mixing in cold) Typical turn on rates are .5 to .7 gpm. The Stiebel digital models have a turn on rate of .26 gpm. (It's not pleasant to have your shower either scalding hot or ice cold with nothing in between!)

- Install maintenance valves . These allow the water to be shut off, a pump connected to pump cleaning fluid (basically vinegar) to remove deposits. (deposits can clog the heating chamber, decrease heating efficiency, and cause corrosion and shorting.

- Add a mixer valve. Tankless heaters tend to have fluctuating temperatures. With a mixer, you can set your heater temperature higher(typically 140F). This goes to the mixer that mixes cold water with it to hold an exact temperature, and never goes above it. (We keep our kitchen sink at 107F) Our old heater had to be adjusted at least twice a year because of ambient temperature changes from summer to winter. A mixer makes this unnecessary.

- Whole house models replace a single traditional tank heater, but you still have to wait for the heat to reach the faucet. Smaller units mounted at bathroom, kitchen, etc. will deliver hot water within seconds. The smaller units are less expensive per unit, but have to be wired with 220v 40 or 50 amp service. (Some of the smaller ones don't need this)

- They are small, but do require space near the faucet. We were able to install ours in the crawl space directly under the floor. With service valves, mixer and plumbing, it fills up about a 2 x 2 x 1 foot space.

- I've heard good things about natural gas models, but don't have gas.

- Tankless heaters hold less water than a tank heater, but if either ruptures, they are going to leak out as long as the water is connected. Either kind of heater should be mounted where leaks will not cause problems. Either outside, in a room with drains or with a drain pan under it that drains outside.

- Most tankless heaters do not specify a GFCI breaker. But if our first tankless heater had had a GFCI, it would have tripped and not allowed hot live steam to spew out of my kitchen faucet.The new Stiebel I have has a dual thermal emergency shutoff that switches both legs of the power. The old Bosch did not.)

- Hard water - If your water supply is above 11 "grains per gallon", you should probably do something about softening your water. A home water softener can be a couple thousand dollars or so. Yearly maintenance of pumping vinegar can help. I compromised with the service valves and a 3M Aquapure cartridge that claims to reduce hardness. I think they recommend changing the cartridges twice a year, but I think you can monitor the water with a handheld TDS meter and get more mileage from them.

Cost for main parts:- 12kw heater $300- service valve set - $80- Mixer $100

- 3M Aquapure water treatment to reduce water hardness $70, replacement cartridges are about $30 each.

- misc fittings, tubing, about $100 - a 220v high power service to each heater is required(50 amp for 12kw).

- If you have a traditional tank heater, your plumbing will have to be modified at each heater location. I suspect total cost with labor for each unit like this would be around at least a thousand dollars. YMMV Another discussion on this here:http://www.diychatroom.com/articles/2015/11/the-benefits-of-tankless-water-heaters/#comment-618

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#1

Re: Tankless water heaters

12/10/2015 12:05 PM

Er, which dollars are those? Australian? Zimbabwean?

<...posted recently about...tankless water heater failure...> Does that make this a duplicate thread?

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#2
In reply to #1

Re: Tankless water heaters

12/10/2015 12:13 PM

Sorry, US dollars. Going to fix profile now to show location.

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#3

Re: Tankless water heaters

12/10/2015 12:50 PM

I linked this thread to your original post:

http://cr4.globalspec.com/thread/103712

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#4

Re: Tankless water heaters

12/10/2015 2:42 PM

Excellent follow up with findings, information, and advice. GP!

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#5

Re: Tankless water heaters

12/10/2015 2:54 PM

I can heartedly recommend gas ones. We had an old model that I replaced in 1992 with a brand new one.

One new heat exchanger and one new switch over valve (heating/hot water) since then.

It gets "tuned up" every 2nd years and still exceeds the latest "norm" for exhaust gas emissions.

Really great system.

The problem in the USA with a switched off electrical water heater unit getting power via a shorted element to ground and overheating is a 110/220 volt US system problem by the way, where only one phase is switched, but connected to 220 VAC (safety needs both live phase ends to be switched), because of the central grounded neutral, completing the circuit. Dangerous!

Gas does not have that problem!!

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#6

Re: Tankless Water Heaters

12/10/2015 5:19 PM

Yes, thanks for the feed-back.

I think it depends on the individuals needs though.

Two tankless heaters look like an initial investment of $1,500.00+ USD.

One pool pump timer on a 50 gallon tank works for our 4 boys and us. Don't expect hot water after midnight until 5:00AM the next day. In Arizona you your water is hot 4 months out of the year with no water heater. Water heaters last me 10 years and take two hours to replace.

We run a dishwasher every day, wash 100 loads of clothes each week (OK, maybe not that many) take 4 showers every day, sometimes more if the littles ones can be caught, and one water heater works OK for us.

Not saying tankless is bad, it sounds like a great thing. Just not for everyone.

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#7
In reply to #6

Re: Tankless Water Heaters

12/10/2015 5:28 PM

Found this one for a friend a few years ago. Never heard any complaints, and the price was right (theirs was less than 100 U.S.

http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_ss_c_0_12?url=search-alias%3Daps&field-keywords=tankless+hot+water+heater&sprefix=tankless+hot+water+heater%2Caps%2C182

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#10
In reply to #6

Re: Tankless Water Heaters

12/10/2015 9:02 PM

Cutting utility costs by rationing hot water for showers has to be a "tankless job.

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#8

Re: Tankless Water Heaters

12/10/2015 6:04 PM

I'm a little confused by this comment...

" Inspect the circuit diagram before you buy. Both sides of the element power should be switched. Otherwise, the element can short to ground halfway through the pipe and go full on with no flow,"

Assuming this is a single phase unit - as multiphase units would surely have switching in all phase conductors to be legal - then if the active conductor is switched and the switch is open (no flow), and the element goes to earth at any point.. How will current flow from the neutral side through the element to earth (both should be at ground potential), and how will that create any overheating?

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#9
In reply to #8

Re: Tankless Water Heaters

12/10/2015 8:42 PM

It's USA power. The two legs of power are 220 volts. No neutral is in the circuit. (They would be 110 each to neutral.) We call that single phase. Three phase is 3 legs and a senter neutral. (No such thing as two phase.)

One leg is switched. The other is wired directly to one end of the element. When it shorted halfway down the element to ground, it effectively became a 110 volt element that was full on, with stationary water sitting in the chamber.

Page 9 shows the circuit clearly: http://efficientelectricwaterheaters.com/Downloads/AE3.4_7.2_9.5_English_08.2008.pdf

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#11
In reply to #9

Re: Tankless Water Heaters

12/10/2015 9:03 PM

I may have been unclear on one point. The 9.5kw AE9.5 model has a flow switch, not a thermostat. The 12kw AE12that we have in the bathroom has an electronic thermostat control as well as a flow switch. (That one has not malfunctioned yet, but it is being replaced also.)

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#12
In reply to #9

Re: Tankless Water Heaters

12/10/2015 9:07 PM

Thanks for the link.There is clearly a design fault to allow that to happen.

Such a device would not be allowable under Australian regulations without switching in ALL live - not just active - conductors.

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#13
In reply to #8

Re: Tankless Water Heaters

12/10/2015 9:51 PM

I guess any wiring mistake will lead to one of the unwanted effects. So the statement should be to have a certified electrician inspecting the wiring before powering up the system.

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#14
In reply to #13

Re: Tankless Water Heaters

12/10/2015 9:56 PM

There were no mistakes in the external wiring, just in the product design.

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#17
In reply to #14

Re: Tankless Water Heaters

12/11/2015 2:39 AM

You are technically correct, but having a house without an RCD or equivalent, is "believing" that everyone else is doing their job correctly, including the designer of the water heater.....

An RCD helps to cover those points where code/designer/installer are possibly at fault...... and could be a lifesaver, particularly for inquisitive children.

I got my first mains shock before I was 2 years old!!! NO RCDS IN THOSE DAYS!!!

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#19
In reply to #14

Re: Tankless Water Heaters

12/11/2015 3:32 AM

Question is if there is a way to connect both products correctly by looking at the wiring diagram and would a certified electrician have done so? If the wiring of the product was wrong then this is a case for consumer protection and the governing authority to deal with.

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#20
In reply to #19

Re: Tankless Water Heaters

12/11/2015 3:51 AM

I agree. Its not something that the consumer should need to be bothered about.

My personal take is a two pole contactor is needed, inside the device, builtin by the manufacturer, for the USA, though something more modern may be better, but NOT Triacs.....

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#22
In reply to #19

Re: Tankless Water Heaters

12/11/2015 7:22 AM

As far as I can tell, there is no requirement for ground fault protection on water heaters. You don't need to inspect the circuitry, just install the breaker. American GFCI breakers detect any leakage to ground and trip both legs so fast that you won't be injured. You certainly won't be scalded. (My kitchen sink literally had live steam shooting out of the faucet.)

Mixing valves would add a second layer of protection. Some new shower valves have the mixers built in. (A paraplegic friend of mine was seriously scalded in his shower because he couldn't feel the heat on his legs.)

I've reported this wiring issue to UL labs already. Bosch is a British company. That might explain their design, but as mentioned a while ago, US tank water heaters are essentially the same way.

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#23
In reply to #22

Re: Tankless Water Heaters

12/11/2015 8:22 AM

I believe that was one of my previous points was that "no requirements for ground fault protection in US homes". That would of course have "watched" the water heater as well!!

No need to just have one for the water heater alone!!!

Anyone who wants to make their house a lot safer should get one fitted.

Actually Bosch is a German manufacturer, but they may have a manufacturing facility in the UK.

They should know better than to supply such dangerous crap in the USA!! Totally thoughtless!!

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#24
In reply to #23

Re: Tankless Water Heaters

12/11/2015 8:52 AM

Apparently Bosch acquired Powerstar, a British company. Amazon reviews agree with my poor experience with them. The initial installation of both of them was a nightmare that lasted a couple months with defective parts. They sent a replacement circuit board, then complete unit.

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#25
In reply to #24

Re: Tankless Water Heaters

12/15/2015 2:18 AM

Really sounds like a case for consumer protection!

Feel sorry for you!

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#16
In reply to #8

Re: Tankless Water Heaters

12/11/2015 2:31 AM

You are confusing your "proper" system, with what the USA has. They have a 110/220VAC system, where the center of the 220VAC phase, is center tapped to earth and also called neutral.

They use neutral to phase for 110VAC loads and hot end to hot end for 220VAC loads, ones like water heaters for example.

This "danger" exists in the USA for many 220VAC loads, especially where water is concerned.

Alos, it does not appear to be taken seriously by the Electrical code bodies as far as I can tell from here....But I am fully prepared to be wrong if someone can prove that code DOES fully cover this and its the installers that are at fault!! Plus water heaters sold in the USA appear to have been made for countries where there is no center tapped mains supplies as in the USA.....

Remember, if only one "hot" end is switched, (which can be really dangerous), then the element is still "hot to earth" from the other end. A "leak" in the insulation and the hot end still connected will run a current via this leak back to the neutral/ground point.

This can even cause a water heater, that is "switched off" by only one "hot" end of the 220VAC phase, to boil the water in it, completely out of control. meentioned here already by several posters!!!

Only the mains switch or fuse removal will stop it!!

If all houses in the USA were required to have a WORKING RCD installed, then this could not happen. Because as soon as a hot end of the 220VAC touches ground in any way shape or form, the supply would be removed in milliseconds.

This is a needed and very basic safety feature, especially where children are concerned, that few in the USA appear to understand fully (CR4 members not included in this sweeping statement!!) and apparently no code requirement!!

I don't know the rules where you are in Oz(?), but I believe that most if not all housing in the UK for example, must have an RCD, so "leaks" to ground will drop power anyway, but as the UK does not have center tapped 220VAC anyway, its a far safer place to live and only the live needs to be switched in normal usage. The other end being a neutral/ground, not the other "hot" end of a 220VAC phase.

My house in the UK had one fitted by my Father and myself in 1975 or so when we bought the house (built circa 1450 AD!!), its nothing new there I believe. My Father was also an Electrical Engineer.

Here there is no RCD requirement for older housing (as far as I remember, but I may not be fully up to date!), but it is highly recommended.

I would not be without them (all three!) as we have 3 phase coming into the house. I actually have never had a RCD drop at home, but my "inquisitive" finger managed it once at the office, where I plunged a classroom where I was teaching into total darkness, as it had no windows and the stupid German regs. allow power and lighting to be on the same RCD!!

It does hurt by the way!!

At home, I split power and lighting over different phases, to reduce the lighting loss, if ever one drops.

One point that needs to be made for amateurs is that these normal RCDs, do not trip for over current. Over current must either be catered for separately, or special RCDs used that incorporate both types of sensing.

I personally like them separate and have CBs for over current that drop only a single circuit when operated and 3 single RCDs for earth leakage, one per phase coming into the house.

They need to be checked (I do it once a year) with the test button on each RCD.

But for garden equipment on mains, many recommend a more sensitive RCD type, just for that circuit. I have not bothered....I am BAD!!!!

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#15

Re: Tankless Water Heaters

12/11/2015 2:07 AM

When we bought out house back in 2011, it came with a tankless water heater. We love it! It did break down and I had to replace a sensor. It also shuts off when the flow is too low, but that happens more often than we would like. Many times we have this happen while someone is in the shower.

We enjoy low energy bills and when this unit goes out we will replace it with another tankless unit. Also, ours is natural gas.

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#21
In reply to #15

Re: Tankless Water Heaters

12/11/2015 7:11 AM

Our old ones had the low flow shutoff problem, too. When I shopped for the replacements, I checked specs(I have dozens of shopping spreadsheets!) and the Stiebel unit had a much lower turn on flow rate, "Typical turn on rates are .5 to .7 gpm. The Stiebel digital models have a turn on rate of .26 gpm."

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#18

Re: Tankless Water Heaters

12/11/2015 3:07 AM

Good post.

Thermostatic mixing valves are a must I find as no matter how good the plumbing was designed, someone using vast amounts of hot water, or flushing a toilet elsewhere can still cause uncomfortable water temperature changes for anyone having a shower.

The thermostatic ones even it out beautifully.....

Mixing only is good enough for sinks and basins. Having separate hot and cold taps anywhere, especially in showers and baths, is simply dangerous and inefficient.

I prefer gas fired ones and a lot of electrical "worry" is then removed.....also, where I live, gas is one of the cheapest methods of water heating. Not counting cutting your own wood of course!!

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