Precast Stem Wall Foundation To Foot or Not To Foot?

Its commercial so do it right. Means hire somebody who knows the codes and what is required.

I'd pour concrete if I had the slightest doubt.

You must follow local, state and national building codes. No correct answer can come from the forum based on your lack of information. Check with the locals.

Yes yes I intend to follow the code requirements for buildings on a quarter section in SW MN. The stem wall isn't required but I believe it will be better considering wind load and soil conditions in the corn field.

If I have a footing profile cast into the stem wall having rebar etc.. what advantage is there to use a concrete footing? I may not be able to get this done before winter unless I use the precast method.

The footer is used to stabilize and support the wall to keep it from migrating. It should be constructed below the frost line (local code)...

https://www.silive.com/homegarden/homeimprovement/index.ssf/2010/09/foundation_footer_is_critical.html

http://www.littlegreenhouse.com/base/base.shtml

Well then, asking the locals is even more important since they may have been faced with this dilemma already and I can't imagine that your neighbors would not help you with advice.

Gravel's probably cheaper, but less stable.

Will you do the work yourself or hire it out?

Beyond that, I am of no use to you for advice.

But, I do own the barn that is my avatar, and it is in SW MN as well.

Where are you located? Anywhere near Buffalo Ridge?

Near Pipestone and it's local understanding that caused my interest in determining the reasonable expectation though I could use a wooden foundation I believe overkill is under rated.

Good for you. Build it to last and you won't regret it.

I've been to Pipestone, on a whim a few years ago when I drove down from Hendricks where the barn is.

Good luck with your project!

I concur with Solar Eagle (and with Lyn): meet or exceed code will keep you out of trouble, and will result in a stable structure that will not be heaved by freeze/thaw in MN - pour the footing below frost line, always. Stamped gravel, I would not trust it.

A complete dearth of info. Are we dealing with 1 ton per sq meter of snow loads? Typhoon winds? Pre-cast what? Etc., Etc.

Yes, you really need a structural engineer. And with all the interior humidity, really serious corrosion protection on the steel is in order. You may want to think aluminum, which is not terribly expensive these days.

If the roof is pitched correctly, snow loads should be minor.

There must be a local weather bureau that will have a record of the maximum winds for that location.

If corrosion is a problem use stainless steel instead of carbon steel-no initial painting or later repainting.

Initial expense high, but money will be saved on maintenance.

Shortly before I was laid off my first job, one project I was given was to replace a tank that was originally designed for pressurization. When I chose 316 stainless for the material - tank, baffles, cover with only the top outside ring my boss thought I was crazy. When I visited about a year later, I was told that the tank was stored outdoors for almost a year before installation - only the top outside ring had to be replaced due to excessive rusting!

There'll be two like this joined by a gutter 36' wide anodized aluminum frames

I'll wave in your direction as I pass over 242nd St. on I-29 in a couple of weeks.

I hear it's been wet there.

Good luck with the project.

Thanks yes wet but harvesting yet, I heard they're using snowplows to move standing water in the Twin Cities.

Salutations