Leaking AA Cells

Sounds like bad connections to the batteries...There might have been some accumulation on the contact surface.....You did let the batteries warm up before you installed them, right? ...wipe the contact surfaces? Humid environment? Probably too late to tell what happened now, I would check the next one more often....

http://www.w8ji.com/dielectric_grease_vs_conductive_grease.htm

An ounce of prevention....

The cells were in the unit for quite a while - it seems like they started to leak a few weeks ago.

I'm in So Cal and a humid day is anything over 50% humidity - it's pretty dry out here. I also changed the keyboard cells at the same time and they're okay.

No clue here. Never has happened to me, but it is not that uncommon.

How can I clean a wireless mouse in which the batteries leaked?

Battery Corrosion, Why They Leak And How To Prevent It

Why Do Batteries Leak? - Consumer Reports

Thanks Lyn.

I believe they are jobbing manufacturing out over seas. If I recall, I took pictures of the battery, and the manufacturing code was CHINA.

I wish I could find that link, it wasn't a big problem at all.

I recall when I was very young that battery leakage was a problem. I think back then the case was zinc and the consumed electrode, so when it was depleted, the guts leaked out. When they came out with steel cased batteries, it seemed that leakage was very rare.

Now we're back to square 1 with batteries that leak again. I'm not sure why, but I expect they're the cheapest imports that are available.

It's very irritating to come across an electronic device that hasn't been used for awhile and find the battery compartment has corroded.

I stopped at Harbor Freight and I did the Charmin squeeze test on their batteries.

and....

scary soft.....

I could actually feel the difference in weight between those Harbor Freight batteries (light) and Energizers.

At least I didn't pay for them as they were free with coupon.

You get what you pay for, but I have to say, I like the little flash lights they give away and the 4" magnetic trays. Nice to spread the flashlights around... garage, house vehicles, bikes. And the trays I use them all the time.

HF Screw drivers they give away suck, but if you're in a pinch, I'd use them. I just bough a 23 pc Craftsmen screw driver set last week.

I like the 27 led flashlights like an oval puck.

But the aluminum three cell (9 led?) they lose contact when I tip/touch/breathe near... them! They drive me nuts because in theory they are very handy.

They're actually very handy! I've had a lot of these over the years. I recommend changing the cells to a quality brand. The ones that come with the lights are so cheap. You'll be surprised at how bright the light is and how long the cells last.

Often these types of flashlight use an aluminum-solder interface to make one of the electrical connections. The solder compresses and makes the connection chancy at best. I have brought these types back by adding a little silver bearing solder [5%] to the offending connection. The silver solder is much harder than the solder typically used in these types of flashlights.

Those HF LED light are great, but the cells are cheap and don't last long. When I put new Duracell's in, the light was so bright and they last a long time. Feels like a different light!

Best screwdrivers I've ever owned (even better than the black handle Craftsman). Husky with a big round ball for a handle. These are great for getting maximum torque. The handles are made of a soft feeling rubber type material - not hard plastic. I love these screwdrivers! http://www.decideproduct.com/husky/screwdriver-set-22-piece_4199212.html

Don't know if Craftsman still guarantees thir hand tools for the life of the tool, but they did when I started acquiring mine in the late 60's and early 70's.

Yes they do,

Yes, they have lifetime warranty, but many of their tools are made in China. So you have a choice, keep your old made in the USA Craftsman tools (need to sharpen/reshape parts) or get new made in China versions.

Unless the tool is unusable, I'll keep the USA tools and recondition them.

Also, you have to look at the name, for a while, Sears was selling Sears brand tools next to the their Craftsmen, And the Sears name brand was junk. They are selling other sears brand named something else, don't know if its it's Craftsmen or Sears.

I always considered Craftsmen a mid-quality tool, 9Its what I have, but I just love working with Snap-On or MATCO. You can feel the difference in the quality... as well as your wallet.

I'll stop in the pawn shops and browse their tool selection. Every now and again, I come across them or even the Vise-grip or Channelox (Irwin), in new or like-new condition.

Check out garage sales in your area.

A lot of people moving and/or downsizing very often will sell some decent tools. Very often they are unique to a particular trade or profession, and would cost an arm and a leg if bought new.

Got myself some nice saws (crosscut and rip) as well as some unique pliers!

I do that as well as estate auctions.

Craftsman also had Pro line (higher quality consumer tools) and and industrial line (actually really nice stuff).

I have a good friend who's a mechanic and he told me that Snap On isn't the same quality as the old Snap On. I'm not sure, because I haven't bought a Snap On tool in years. The old stuff is definitely a high quality tool.

A few years ago, I bought some real Channelock pliers. They're not the same quality as the old one! Also Vise Grip has dropped in quality.

Here's a good one. I bought a pair of Klein lineman pliers about 30 years ago. Great quality and never had to shapen it. I left them back at home and I bought a new pair a few years ago. Quality is the same as the old pair - great to see!

Craftsmen or Sears? In the Sears store, there seems to be a number of Sears tools suited for various pockets depths.

After a while, I believe the quality does diminish, I believe Channelock is owned by Irwin, as well as Vise-Grips.

Nothing is more disappointing than using a cheap Vise-Grip like knock-off.

Yes, I did hold a Klein Tool and it felt impressive.

Channelock & Vise Grip are both owned by Irwin which is owned by Stanley tools which is a Division of Stanley Corp. A really mixed up mess of corporations trying to wring out all of the money from good old companies they can, then toss them aside for someone else to try and revive them. Which almost never happens in this day and age, it's all about profits and loss, not about making something that will last for generations any more. Now I can get off my soap box for the day, have a good day gents.

Channelock & Vise Grip are both owned by Irwin which is owned by Stanley tools which is a Division of Stanley Corp.

when that happens, that usually spells out the Beginning of the end.

Each in their own day were good solid tools.

Vise Grips of old, couldn't be beat. And when my dad bought his first ChanneLLock way back when, we all thought that was one hell of a tool, it was one of the first tools I bought for my own use over 30 years ago.

Same here I inherited a lot of my dad and granddads tools, and all through the boxes was multiple sets of Vise Grips and Channel lock. I don't think they could work on anything without them. Most of them still looked almost new or were totally beat up no in between. Some times I thought my granddad would buy new vise grips and throw them into different corners of the service trucks, so that no matter what he was doing he could always find a pair to work on whatever he was working on.

Wow,... coming off the farm, when working in the field and a machine broke down (lets say the baler with storms clouds on the horizon and 15 acres of hay still laying) only to find 'someone' took the required open/box end wrenches out of the machines tool box. nothing was more satisfying is going through all the tool boxes on the tractors and finding a vise grip.

For kids of today, its like finding the 'Golden Key' in a video game.

Channellock is still independent. Vise Grip is owned by Irwin, which is owned by Rubbermaid.

Here's an excellent link on who owns what. Also look at the comments - good stuff here!

Enjoy!

http://toolguyd.com/tool-brands-corporate-affiliations/

Nice read, it's interesting that after Walmart raped Rubbermaid with aggressive supplier contracts and now Newell Rubbermaid with the old Rubbermaid containers I beleive were purchased and made in China that they are into tools now.

Consolidation! As long as they don't mess with the "secret sauce", it's okay. In some cases, the parent may even improve the quality ... then there's name brands like Sansui!

I remember the old Wal Mart, when Sam Walton ran the show. They were similar to an alternative to K-mart. I remember doing a case study on them back in grad school (early 90's). Sam pushed for "Made in the USA" and he took pride in buying from companies that did so.

I bet less than 1% of the things in a Wal Mart are made in the US now (except for food or basic staples). That's pretty sad.

I recall, Walmart was doing that big push of "Made in USA" advertising. That was quickly squashed after they found out the clothing lines were made upon Pakistan.

walmart tore apart a lot of domestic companies when they took advantage of disparate companies willing to sign contracts cut to the bone profits.

Walmart isn't alone in this. The public asked for lower prices and they didn't care about the loss of work for our workers. It wasn't due to lack of quality, it simply came down to price. People wanted lower prices and that's what Walmart gave them.

It's business.

Not necessarily. Pre-recession, how many import cars did you see in Detroit? Compare that to a city like Los Angeles, Phoenix or San Francisco.

People in Detroit bought cars based on loyalty to the company and supporting the domestic car companies - bang for the buck didn't matter as much. People in other cities bought a car based on quality or image and getting the most bang for the buck is more important.

What this shows is that people will buy American, even though the cost is higher and the quality lower. Their goal isn't to save money; it's to keep jobs in our country. Walmart moved toward buying from producers in China, because it reduced the cost. They did this, because the customers wanted it. If they didn't, then the products wouldn't sell and they would've gone back to Made in the US goods.

People in Detroit bought cars based on loyalty to the company and supporting the domestic car companies -

and look where it got them.

Phoenix, Detroit doesn't do Packard anymore, but it still does Ford and General Motors. Across in California and Nevada there's a fresh start.

Australia doesn't do Ford anymore:
http://resources.carsguide.com.au/styles/cg_hero_large/s3/falcon-ute-final-2016-(2).jpg
Australia doesn't do General Motors anymore:
http://s3.caradvice.com.au/thumb/960/477/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/holden-cruze_end-of-production.jpg
Australia doesn't do Toyota anymore:
http://www.theage.com.au/content/dam/images/3/2/c/z/q/image.related.articleLeadwide.620x349.32d12.png/1392048000000.jpg
Australia doesn't do Mitsubishi anymore:
http://resources0.news.com.au/images/2013/12/12/1226782/000892-203c7004-6319-11e3-be16-1445237cc09f.jpg
Australia don't do nothin' nomore.

But that's OK, I'm sure the manufacturing workers will get lovely jobs serving coffee to tourists, or retrain as bankers to flog loans to all the people wanting the workers' houses. When the big manufacturers lose their way, those who trusted them lose everything.

Not everyone should be working in an office. A lot of them need to be working with their hands. When they were in school, they excelled in shop class. Others did great in the college prep courses. We need to have jobs for both groups, but for some reason, we don't do a good job protecting these workers.

Our elected officials need to act like mom and dad. The kids want all kinds of low priced goods (Walmart). Our government needs to stop us from wrecking our country - that's what tariffs are for. Protect our manufacturing jobs by leveling the playing field with the imports (by adding cost with tariffs). Use the money generated from the tariffs to help the people who lost their manufacturing jobs or subsidize them if they needed to accept lower wages.

Let me try this again since it kicked me off line after I tried to post and lost all of my rant I have lost steam. Just how long do you subsidize them 6 months, a year or for the rest of their lives. I don't see how our economy can continue to keep taking hits like this and stay afloat. We have created a generation of non feeling kids that think we need to give them everything they want right now. I have a granddaughter that thinks she should be given a collage degree with out working to help herself. She went to her mother and demanded she cosign for her loans. Just because her younger brother got a free ride because of his grades. The company that he works for is also helping with some of his expenses. So she thinks she should get the same thing. I'm sorry she did not work as hard as her brother so its her own fault not ours. Don't get me wrong I love all of my grandkids and great grandkids, but she was taught from the first day of school that everything should be given to her. I did not like the schools she went to, her brother went to a different school by choice she wanted to stay with her friends. And now she wants to go to the same school that her friends are going to a known party school and I know my granddaughter education is not at the top of her list right now.

Reminds me of my wife when my older daughter was in college, taking the minimum number of credits to qualify as a full-time student:

"I don't do graduate school, and I don't do weddings!"

Like your sign off BTW.

It's been a while ago but I just can't remember where I lifted that saying from. I liked it so much it just stuck with me. Maybe not in that order, but that is how I wrote it out and liked it that way so I stuck with it. I have another Galic saying but no one would figure it out. The English version says "We will never flee from the clashing of blades(Rian nar druid o sabarin lann) Galic version, there is suppose to be a line over the o but I can't make that happen just don't know how, not a secretary, and not my job.

Would an umlaut ö, or, a tilde õ do . Try holding down the alt key and keying 148 or 228 on the numeric keypad.

I will just have to conceded defeat and ask the secretary wife how to do it. That's going to cost me a dinner out don't you know. She has been an administrative assistant for a lot of hi fallutin people here in Indiana. Plus she has more collage degrees than carter has liver pills, and speaks 5 languages, why she married this old geeser I will never know I guess it was just because I asked. Those redheaded German girls have a temper too. You just have to know when to duck and cover or run depending on their mood. But I'm quite sure she will try to teach this old goat a few new tricks with my computer.

In most online instances of that phrase the accent seems to be like a French acute accent.

Riamh nár dhruid ó spairn lann

So <ALT> + 162 will do it.

Thank you I will confirm with my wife on the phone at the shop and have her try that one out, she may already know about it as I have not seen her since yesterday but will ask. Thanks for the corrections in the spelling. And again Thank You, very much for the Info. Duke,

You're making an assumption that the economy would be the same if we had protective tariffs in place. You have to get rid of that assumption and try to see an economy that is thriving, because factories are purring along and unemployment is low (real unemployment, not the current definition).

Why would the economy be humming along? The tariffs would do one of two things. Either protect the jobs, thus we would have higher employment (less people on government rolls) or we would have some imports which cause a slight drop in our factory output. The tariffs we collect from the importers would be used to subsidize the workers who are affected by the imports. Since the imports would continue, tariffs continue and the subsidies are funded. If the imports go away, our factories will need more employees and the workers can go back to higher paying jobs and there would be no need for subsidies.

The reason why our GenX, GenY or millennials being so lazy is that we've spoiled them. It has nothing to do with imports or loss of factory jobs. Expecting someone to subsidize the cost of their education is just wrong. If it wasn't earned, then why would someone think they deserve it? Only one answer and it's because they were spoiled. Too bad for them, because they'll have a tough time as they grow up.

I whole heartedly agree on the spoiled part. Getting the economy rolling again is not going to be easy or for the faint of heart. I just hope it happens and soon.

Looks like we're going to have a chance to see if things are going to change.

It'll be interesting to see what he can do. I hope what he does will help us, the middle class.

It won't be easy but we can try our best to make it work. Then get rid of the riff-raff from the courts then the insurance screw-up and on to bigger and better things, just the opinion of a crusty old goat.

Hay Autobroker do you know what happen to the daily E-mails from CR4. I haven't had anything from them for a couple of weeks. And I really do like the site I gleen a lot of info from it just for daily life. And I enjoy the back and forth when it happens, just so I feel I am not the only one who has others that don't agree with me. (wife, daughter son-in-law, granddaughter, and great-grandsons) enough for one night so long guys.

I still get them, but lately a few have been sent to my spam folder. I've been pretty busy with work and my commute has increased by about 3 hours a day (3-4 days a week). I haven't been to this site often since then.

Check your spam folder and see if they're there.

"Our elected officials need to act like mom and dad."

NO, Mom and Dad need to act like Mom and Dad!

The government must ace like mom and dad. Here's an example I used at one of my Civic Association meetings a while ago.

Some of the people in my community were upset, because they felt that our Civic Association should do things based on the majority of the residents desire. I told them that the job of our Civic Association is to be the liaison with the County Officials. Our recommendations are not based on a majority vote of the residents, but rather we listen to the residents and make a decision based on what we think is best. They didn't like my answer, so I gave them an example. I asked them to raise their hands if they wanted to pay no income taxes. Most raised their hands. I then said that based on the vote of the residents, we would write a letter to the Federal Government, State Government and County Government telling them that the residents of our community will not longer pay taxes.

A child may want to eat chocolate and candy for dinner, but mom and dad have to say no. Most people want the government to give them things, but they don't want to pay for it (in taxes). So government must be the responsible parent. The problem is that the only place that a government will act like a responsible parent is at the local level. Everything above that is full of politics, partisanship, one upmanship, egos, repaying favors, graft, etc. It creates inefficiencies and wasting our tax money.

The problem wasn't the loyalty of the Detroit citizens. It was that the manufacturers didn't think they could lose. They had blinders on and had the attitude that they could make any piece of garbage they wanted and the public would buy it.

If the big three chose to make quality products, I believe they wouldn't be in the trouble they are. They're so dependent on the economic cycles. When the economy goes down the toilet, they wind up asking for government handouts or filing for BK.

A few weeks ago, I bought a rotary hammer drill to break out stucco. I had two choices of a chisel. The Bosch was made in Italy and the Milwaukee was made in Germany. I bought the Italian chisel, since it looked nicer than the German one. Like how an Alfa Romeo looks better than a BMW, Mercedes of Audi.

I've owned cars that were built in lots of different countries, but never an Italian one. There have been many times I've come close to buying and Alfa, but the guy on my shoulder tells me that I have no time to work on it, so let it go.

The old black handle Craftsman screwdrivers are their Industrial line. The ones with the black handle with red accents is the Pro line. I have a couple of their Industrial screwdrivers and the tips are strong and hold screws well.

Channellock seems to be family owned. https://www.channellock.com/history.aspx

Irwin owns Vise Grip. I own some Irwin tools and they're okay - definitely not professional grade. Good tools for the home owner and much better than HFT.

There is a problem what I've seen on generational family owned/runned businesses. Not all of them though.

Yes, many times the next generation makes an important change, usually to improve profits. Cutting quality is typically the way they do it, but not all the time. I'm glad Channellock is still making tools in PA.

The two pairs of Channellock pliers I most recently bought have thinner steel vs the old sets I own.

I remember the old Mac tool truck - similar to Snap On. Years ago, I had a Mac TL-87 timing gun (engine timing). It was a much better tool vs the chrome Craftsman tool we had. This is the old Engine Analyzer like the one my dad bought in the late 70's! http://www.ebay.ie/itm/Sears-Penske-Systems-30-Engine-Analyzer-Set-244-21033-/322259727522?hash=item4b082d34a2:g:czYAAOSwfY9XQfiQ

All the tools are still at mom's house - old Craftsman aluminum case drills, Craftsman hand tools, an old bench vise, wood working tools, saws, drills and a ton of old made in the USA tools!

There an interesting story behind Sears and their suppliers, craftsman was one and as I understand it, Sears where pretty brutal. Sears was the Walmart of its day, but you never heard about it because in the day no one had the mass media it has today. Plus Sears offered service to too many people did't care how they did it.

I don't know how long Sears can survive. I was in the Sears store in Green Bay last week, their tool area was always strong, but it's getting week. Through out the store shelves half full, clothing is doing good, but their tool area is weakening

For me, Sears was our go to store to buy tools and appliances. The last time I bought anything at Sears was around 5 years ago. We needed a stick vac, so I thought we'd go to Sears.

We couldn't find anyone to help us with our purchase. We self demo'd them and we found out that the one we planned to get (Electrolux Ergorapido) didn't pick up as well as the Hoover LiNX Platinum. We threw stuff on the floor and tested both. Nobody came to ask if we needed help or what we were doing. When we decided on the Hoover, we walked up to a computer terminal and placed the order on line and asked for a Will Call pick up. We went out to dinner, then came back and picked it up from Will Call - or so we thought. We actually had to go back to the vacuum department and a salesman pulled one out of inventory and signed off that we picked it up. He asked why we used Will Call and we told him that we were ignored, so we went to the computer to place the order.

He seemed upset that he didn't get the sale = commission!

With the exception of most at the tool department, the employees are the best.

it looks pretty bleak at Sears survivability.

I'd replace the batteries, but then that would cost me. I treat them as consumables. (I have a box of them) plus their out the house, garage car, etc... Some stored for over 2 years still works. Initially about 5% failed, and they failed quickly, but none recently.

I don't know if you're old enough to remember those shiny silver Eveready cells that were made of some sort of cardboard? Back then I used a lot of D cells and a few C cells, but rarely used AA or AAA.

Rayovac! Interesting. I've had pretty good luck with Duracell and Energizer. I've had some problems with those cheap cells that come with the remote controls, etc - off brand type.

Thanks for the tip!

I had only one failure each of a Duracell and Energizer. but numerous difficulties with Ray-O-Vac's

I can't remember the last time I bought Ray-O-Vac. I go out of my way to purchase Duracell and Energizer and they've been troublefree. This is the first time I've had one leak and damage the device. My better half gets all kinds of oddball cells and batteries. I find them in our storage box and I have no idea how we've acquired so many and the strange brands.

I've also used Delco 9V batteries in my smoke detectors. I change them twice a year at my rentals. The other purpose of changing the batteries is so I can take a look at the house and make sure I don't see anything bad.

Just because Duracells cost you a lot of money doesn't mean they're not cheap.

I once came across a Duracell website advertising franchise opportunities. The cost of the cells to the franchisee was minuscule compared to the selling price. From what I gathered most of the Duracell display shelves you see in shops are not owned by the shop owner themselves but are in space rented from the shop owner by the franchisee. The franchisee has to keep the display stocked and the shop owner has to keep a record of all units sold so that they can pay them.

The cost of this complicated arrangement must be enormous, and, then of course you have the cost of making and screening all those advertisements, which must involve a huge legal bill advising on how to give the impression that their cells are better when in fact their capacity is far less than most of the competition.

Very interesting! I see that you're in the UK. I wonder if it's the same here in the US? I've seen the Home Depot employees stocking the battery shelves, so I have a feeling that the merchandise is sent by the manufacturer to the store.

A little off the subject, but interesting to note; greeting cards that you buy at the grocery store are stocked and maintained by an outside company. They hire people to keep inventory up and make it look good.

Battery stores seem to be doing well..

I often wondered how they can survive, now I know.

I had a mini Maglite (About $24.00), where the batteries corroded and I could not get the batteries out. Mag lite used to replace your flash lite, but now they direct you to Duracell.

I sent in my compliant to customer service with pictures and bank routing info and Duracell credited my account.

Duracell stands behind their product... so far, but it seems that is a problem they have as of late.

They'll send out (email) a form with questions to respond to, here was mine. I returned the email with pictures.

I’m sorry you were disappointed with our batteries, and I forwarded your report to the rest of our Duracell Team.

We’d like to share that there are many things that can cause batteries to leak/vent. Some of the more common causes include exposure to extreme temperatures, moisture, where and how batteries are stored, and/or becoming shorted out by other batteries or metals.

In addition, it may help to know that Duracell batteries feature a vent mechanism that’s designed to relieve a build-up of pressure. It’s activated upon the following types of conditions:

• The batteries being left in a device when it had been left in the ON position.
• Mixing old and new batteries. Replace all batteries in a device at the same time.
• Mixing different types of battery (for example, using an alkaline battery and a zinc-carbon battery)
• Storing or carrying loose batteries rather than keeping them in the pack.
• The device damaging the batteries.
• One or more batteries being inserted the wrong way.
• Using a power cord or adapter with a device that has batteries in it. This can charge the batteries and cause possible leakage.
• Trying to recharge an alkaline battery.
• The batteries being exposed to extreme temperatures (hot or cold) or in a damp or humid environment for a long time. Always store batteries at room temperature in a dry environment.
• Using batteries after the ‘freshness date’ shown on their packaging. Ensure batteries are within their freshness date.

Please respond to the questions below so we can assist you further.

How long have you had the batteries?
Where do you store your batteries when not in use?
What is the make and model?
How many batteries go into the device?
How long have the batteries been in the device?
Where was the device kept?
How old is the device?
Were the batteries installed correctly?
Since the device doesn't work, what did you pay for the flashlight?

We apologize for any inconvenience this matter may have caused and once you respond I'll be happy to help.

Sincerely,

Wendy
Duracell Product Specialist
Consumer Services Department

I've got a flashlight like that that the Rayovac D cells leaked and corroded themselves sold into it.

I used it once in the shop during the winter and not thinking about it at the time set it down on my hot boiler and left it there for several days.

Laying on a 180 - 200 F surface for several days is apparently Rayovac's battery breaking point!

I can see what you're trolled.

Laying on a 180 - 200 F surface for several days is apparently Rayovac's battery breaking point

and btw, yes, they also don't do well at ground zero during a nuclear reaction episode.

I ran a test of Duracell and Rayovac AA cells in my phonon cell test oven, and they went pop at about 80 °C. Yes heat will destroy cells, or batteries, and do not throw them in fire.

My uncle used to fire them at cows about a half-mile away using a carbide gun he made. Once the acetylene pressures up pretty good (need to time this after the water is dripped into CaC2), you spin the mag, and it goes boom.

I don't think Uncle John ever hit a cow, but I think he did scare the poo out of them.

Heat is terrible for car batteries too. Most people think that the cold from winter are the cause of killing their battery, but it's the heat from summer that does the damage.

I remember reading the warning about throwing cells in a fire. For some reason, I have a feeling we did that as kids.

Lost a Mini Maglite too, but didn't know about the replacement deal.

Had that sucker since 1990-great for reading serial and model numbers.

I lost one also, but this one was the replacement. I had to send pictures of the one battery (which was stained) that I did get out as well as the corroded mag light which where the battery was still inside, the mini mag light was about a year old.

I also have a big one, the only problem I have with the LED Maglite is that it's so bright that if your trying to read the number off a motor name plate or something, the reflection is blinding.

1990?... ahhh, you got your moneys worth then, and LED is nice with the exception of being too bright sometimes.

I replaced my Mini Maglite with the LED model - it has 2 brightness settings - really bright and approximately the same as the bulb type, and a strobe or flash mode.

Check yours out - the various settings are selected by turning it on and off.

The first one I bought, (that I lost), I thought at first it was defective... then I read the package more closely, it has a high/low beam as well as flashes, and does also does an SOS.

The one where the battery went bad, it was only High/low beam. but the replacement was like the first one.

I was using my Mini Maglite (LED) type during the day, and the bright setting rivaled just about anything but direct sunlight. Handy little light source just about any time of day, and almost everywhere.

I sent an email to Duracell asking them to tear the cells apart and let me know why it leaked and what the clear stuff is. They sent me the questionnaire you received. I sent it back to them and they told me they would send me money to replace the mouse. I didn't expect this and I'm impressed with their customer service, however they didn't ask for the cells back.

I did ask one more time about having them take the cells apart and find out the reason for the leak, but they don't seem concerned about it.

That tells me that it must happen quite often.

It's entirely possible they merely LOOK LIKE Duracell batteries yet are counterfeit:

https://www.thecounterfeitreport.com/product/106/Coppertop-AA---AAA-Batteries.html

I've seen some of the obvious knockoffs, but even looking at the link you provided, some are real good.

Have to check all of my Duracells.

I bought them at Office Max/Office Depot, so I'm going to assume that they're not counterfeit. I do recall finding a Duracell label peeled off a cell and laying on the floor in our rental house - I remember seeing it when we were cleaning up after evicting them!

Thanks for the info. Good stuff!

From experience, iron oxide (rust) contamination inside a conventional alkaline battery, particularly in the separator, can cause battery case failure. The combination of the alkaline electrolyte and iron oxide expands inside the case, rupturing it given enough rust inside the case.

Sounds like a good explanation! The funny thing about my leaky Duracells is that I could clean up the clear stuff and the only indication of a problem would be the discolored bottoms. There's no sign of the case expanding.

"... rapid disassembly..."

Never heard that one before. You, sir, are a true wordsmith!

Gotta remember that euphemism.

Great information! Alkaline liquid leaked - should it have caused the metal end cap to discolor? Also, it did something to the circuit board (or component), because it doesn't work anymore.

I like the analysis of the reason you believe the cells leaked. Physical damage should've happened much sooner - agreed! Over current? Maybe the device was going bad and the high current demand caused the cells to leak? No mismatched cells - both were Duracell and came from the same package. No on reversal - they were in the mouse for months and the mouse was working, up until the point where the cells leaked.

Thanks for your input!

I have done a lot of Amp hour testing on a lot of different types of batteries and found a lot of differences with different manufactures and types of batteries as well as testing parameter's. Some batteries work better in devices that have a steady slow drain on them others like to be hit a little harder, then left to sit until the next time they are needed. Then there are the ones that are allowed in the hospitals (Duracell's- Coppertops / Quantum's) heavy draw. And some applications the Energizer for meter's and gage's not on line current (steady draw applications). ( 9V DC Quantum's Energizers and E3 Lithium nothing else will do for safe key pads I have seen too much destruction done by cheep batteries and counter fit batteries (Duracell Ultras sold thru Bi_ L_ts). They would never measure up to specks If they don't start out at 9.2 - 9.6 Don't use them. Most current manufactures are advertising a 10 year shelf life. Don't always believe it as we have found cells dead with 7-8 years left on the shelf life. I always take my meter with me to test them when I have to purchase them in the field. It is not too uncommon to find a bad batch because of how they were stored or shipped in trucks, planes, trains, or ships. Just my .02 cents take it or leave it.