Carbide cutter

You ask for a contact for Carbide cutters, that's not hard, just about any sales rep that sells cutters will make one to your print, or they will do the design for you. I've done many, it's not hard to design the cutter.

That said, it sounds like you have a chatter problem that you want to fix. Maybe I can help. The chatter is caused by a few different things, first your not loading the cutter properly. Without a load on the cutting tooth the tool will "bounce" and that is chatter. First increase the feed rate of you cut. Most times, that will fix the problem. Next I'd get rid of that pneumatic powered tool, they don't have constant rpm. That too could be causing your chatter. You need to figure out how much metal is being removed with each pass and that means looking at the feed rate.

Without seeing your operation, first double your feed rate, leave the rpm alone and let me know how that works.

I'll be here to help.

Thank you.

I am fully with Labyguy.

Take a Pneumatic motor.

Mount a diamond cutter saw-- types cutting granitre/marble tiles.

Chatter marks would be History

what are you cutting? How much material do you need to remove. Just a bit more detail, if yo don't mind.

cr3

more blades on the cutter would reduce chatter.

No Sail4evr, I have to disagree, chatter is caused because the cutter is not loaded, that is there is not enought material engaging the cutter as a result, the cutter 'bounces' that bounce is chatter.

I've been in metal cutting for over 20 years and I always solve chatter by either decreasing rpm or increasing feedrate. Adding blades would the the same as increasing rpm, or reducing the load on the cutter and would result in MORE chatter.

100% agree. The same is true in plastic as in metal. Also if you don't have a rigid setup you will get chatter. That rigidity must be there everywhere from the tip of the cutter, through the bearings and spindle all the way to the machine base, and with the method of holding the part.

There seems to be some conflict in your information. First and most important: rigidity is everything. It matters not the cutter, the material, the feed or the speed. If you do not have a rigid control of the tool and rigid mounting of the part then you will have chatter. If you are doing only very light passes to round edges or clean up burrs or parting lines, then a carbide burr will work. However your statement says "machine hard plastics". If you are actually machining, then you need endmills not burrs. Burrs do not have enough chip clearance for machining. For plastic, a 2 or 3 flute preferably high heilix carbide endmill will work well. It must be sharp. If it has been used on metal, any metal it is no longer sharp enough for plastic. As another has already stated, if your rpm is too fast for the feedrate you will get chatter. A chip load of .001 to .002 is a good place to start.

Chipload = feedrate (inches per minute) / rpm x number of flutes

5000 to 7000rpmis a safe speed to start with for most thermoplastics with a cutter from 1/8 to 1/2" dia. Too fast will melt the plastic, too slow will break your cutter. If you are running really high rpm as with an CNC router there are special cutters designed for the purpose. Onsrud makes some but they are very expensive. Try Harvey Tool. www.harveytool.com They have a new line of cutters especailly for plastics.

Thank you very much for the valuable experience and kind suggestions.

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I have had problems with die grinders with vein driven motors not enough hp to do the job. Have switch to turbine tool. They have higher hp with more constant rpm. Some are govern so under load rpm stays pretty constant. Not knowing what type of tooling you are using or what plastic you may not need custom tooling. Many manufactures producing tools to machine plastics with CNC Machining Centers. Which have high RPM's.

Try these businesses.

http://catalogs.indiamart.com/products/rotary-cutters.html

have a look at this uk site www.pmregrinds.co.uk

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